What to do about heavy rust around the outriggers

[maz_r]

Like these, you mean

[John_W]

Wayne's are very nice and a good price. Mine are their predecessors.

Here you go - texas2201 organised a group buy in 2007 : viewtopic.php?f=39&t=10468&hilit=Sill&start=60

[madbilly]

As per the request further back, please feel free to use my outrigger repair photos in any way you wish if you feel the need.
Best of luck with the project Neil, it might be worth sticking a camera into the outrigger cavity to see what it looks like inside.

Hi Basher, I'd like to see your photos, but it appears there's now a problem with the photobucket account where they are/were hosted.

In general it would be great if people could post their experiences on the wiki, they'd be a bit more accessible and preserved then.

Cheers

[Tuga2112]

i am now bringing this thread to the "jesus" state. of resurrected.

i have took out stuff from my car in order to do some deep cleaning and decided to check the outriggers on it.

there is some rust. i want other peoples opinions on it. cus mine is that its rather deep for surface, but not structural.

this picture is after using a wire brush and open flame to remove as much rust as i could and dry it completely.



it looks wet somehow, even tho i cant see where the water would come from.

im thinking about its good enough to put a heavy coat of primer on top and put back the sound proofing sheet. what are your opinions guys ?

[dapinky]

Joao,

There are a few options really.

1) - leave it alone (not a great idea!)
2) treat with 'rust killer' and paint it (temporary at best)
3) cut out the rust and weld new metal in - then treat with a good coating of something suitable.

Option 3 is straightforward and has been done by a few (many?) of us - but it takes some time and a friendly welder/fabricator - or time to learn the skills. Solid metal is more important than cosmetics in this location, so it isn't a bad thing to start practicing welding on.

I still think that it is a total lottery as to what stage any of our cars are in, but it is important to look (and not just ignore it)

[Steve A]

At the very least anybody who hasn't got closed cell foam should replace the old stuff as it holds the water.

[Tuga2112]

:agree:
At the very least anybody who hasn't got closed cell foam should replace the old stuff as it holds the water.

do you know the exact specifications of a suitable foam >? so i can get some.

im thinking about using the sandblaster to make sure all rust is removed, and then welding a plate on top. but not 100% decided on exactly what to do.

[Steve A]

Looking further back in the thread there's a link to some closed cell on ebay.
I tried this before http://www.landroverblogger.com/product/metalmorphosis
obviously won't get rid of the bits you need to replace but should prepare the light stuff.

[chrisP]

The rust doesn't look too terrible, what is it like inside the cill? I would treat and paint at that stage and if it was any worse and I would replace. I do not like the idea of plating over, as you are just creating a hidden problem.

Chris

[Tuga2112]

The rust doesn't look too terrible, what is it like inside the cill? I would treat and paint at that stage and if it was any worse and I would replace. I do not like the idea of plating over, as you are just creating a hidden problem.

Chris

Isn't plating over a simple solution to maintain the chassis rigidity? So the plate effectively replaces the rotten part while we end up not needing to worry about removal and reconstruction of the old metal?

I was under the impression that was the idea, which would require the plate to have some relevant thickness in order to structurally replace the original metal?

[Bern]

If you plate it the old metal would continue to rust behind the new, and start the new metal rusting. And because it's now unseen you wouldn't know about it until it had rusted through.

As already said, if I were you I'd clean up what you've got and then treat and paint it, then make regular checks.

[Steve A]

To those that have: how much 10mm closed cell do you need to replace all the old foam ?

[John_W]

1 sq m if you follow Enright’s template earlier in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17298&p=313027&hilit=Foam#p313027

I would go for double the thickness of foam, as there’s plenty of space available, or just get 2 sq m and put two layers. It weighs nothing so you’re not adding weight.

John

[Steve A]

1 sq m if you follow Enright’s template earlier in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17298&p=313027&hilit=Foam#p313027

I would go for double the thickness of foam, as there’s plenty of space available, or just get 2 sq m and put two layers. It weighs nothing so you’re not adding weight.

John

I've ordered my endoscope

[John_W]

Hope it gives a better picture than the cheapo piece of rubbish I bought off ebay!
Buy cheap, buy twice, as they say.

[Tuga2112]

1 sq m if you follow Enright’s template earlier in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17298&p=313027&hilit=Foam#p313027

I would go for double the thickness of foam, as there’s plenty of space available, or just get 2 sq m and put two layers. It weighs nothing so you’re not adding weight.

John

thank john.

i got this ordered more than a month ago when i initially took out the bottom plates (hadnt checked the outriggers by then)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1Roll-5-10mm ... 7EMBn2Z5Fw

it is 1m sq although due to the shape, it doesn't fit exactly but does the job nicely. (the 2 pads under the foot get cut about 3cm short. so not a big problem.

with another roll ordered for the other car, i feel another step closer to having the blue car back on the road.

now... learning to stick weld is a whole different investment.....

[John_W]

Just think how it’s adding to your c.v.!

If that stuff you link to is self-adhesive, that would be good, however because it’s only 50cm wide, you won’t be able to make use of Enright’s clever topological trick, so will need more than 1 sq m.

[Tuga2112]

Just think how it’s adding to your c.v.!

If that stuff you link to is self-adhesive, that would be good, however because it’s only 50cm wide, you won’t be able to make use of Enright’s clever topological trick, so will need more than 1 sq m.

John,

I have that already in the shed, it is self adhesive, and 1sq m is enough. as i mentioned, as long as your willing to cut short the foot area pads by roughly 3cm
Neil's design is more efficient, although i think for the sake of not waiting for another one delivered, i can just use a small extra strip from the offcuts to "filll in" the gap.

i just need to move to portugal and get a house with a big garage... cus its been 8 months since i last did any relevant job on any car thanks to the wonderful weather we have here... XD

[John_W]

If you have any insider information about a house (with garage) in the sun in Portugal, please let me know!

Yours cold and wet,
John

[Steve A]

It's time to take my head out of the sand this weekend and have a good poke around