A Panel Removal

[tobyholland]

Hi have hunted on here on how to remove "A" panels I have removed the bolts and plate that secure bottom to cill,cant work out how to remove them altogether.
I an inclination they clipped into the swage line,any help much appreciated as always
Thanks Toby

[lotusgirlmarie]

I'm assuming you are referring to the small 1/4 pane in front of the door? The lower is the plate with two bolts and there are two nuts at the top, 10mm. Loosen but do not remove any of the fasteners. Then slide the bottom outward and the top down. Panel removed.

[wayne]

I'm assuming you are referring to the small 1/4 pane in front of the door? The lower is the plate with two bolts and there are two nuts at the top, 10mm. Loosen but do not remove any of the fasteners. Then slide the bottom outward and the top down. Panel removed.

OMG I hope that info wasn't from memory Marie....

I saw the post earlier and remembered removing them last year but could not remember how they were held on at the top.... Had to go check!!..

Toby..... Follow Marie's Instructions... Here are a couple of pics for the locations !!

[lotusgirlmarie]

Yep. From memory. I know these cars pretty well. At least the Fed variant. Lord knows I've worked on enough of them. Built a lot for them and have found ways to beef up the reliability of them.

[tobyholland]

that's great,now done
thanks all for help.advice and input
toby

[GeoffSmith]

Well, since I had my car up in the air waiting for a new drain plug, I thought I'd fix the ever-so-slightly-loose A panel and fit some more of deeaitch's bling. The panel came away no problem after loosening the top two nuts (it was loose at the bottom) but the bottom two bolts were covered in crud and rusted solid so turning them only made disturbing metal on fibreglass noises. I did notice that the infill/edging strip next to the A panel does not go all the way down to the sill so there is a gap where spray is likely to enter so I've pulled/stretched it down from the top and cut it to match the profile and hopefully keep the mud out.

A panel water ingress.jpg

Looking at the manual I thought they were rawlnuts underneath the plate so I hacked the heads off and found out they are jacknuts. One of them has come apart and the nut has dropped into the sill with the rest of the screw. Given the amoutt of accumulated crap and the severe rusting, my main concern is whether this has been a source of water ingress into the sills as it is about the right place where Pete and others have had serious outrigger rusting. Secondary concerns are how to fix it for next weeks offer to "Give a pensioner a day out in Somerset" and then a longer term (watertight) solution.

At the minute I'm thinking about grinding the heads of the buggers off (dropping them into the sill if necessary) then using some cavity wall gravity toggles like these (so they can be removed if necessary).



Longer term I'm thinking about a stainless tapping plate fitted/bonded inside the sill, provided there is sufficient access. Any thoughts?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

You can drill the "head" off a jack nut and trhe remainder will drop into the sill box area. A well nut's flange head is a bit too thick I think, but if you have enough room, they might work. The best solution is a new pair of jack nuts that just slip in the hole and then get crimped to the panel as you tighten the bolts. If you use a couple of washers, a spacer and a long bolt to collapse it, you can get them installed without fighting with the A Panel in the way. It is really just like a hollow wall anchor. Once tightened, it will hold the nut securely and can always be drilled out again if it rusts up. Use some stainless hardware and anti-seize paste and it is finished. Much better using a hex head bolt compared to a screw driver slot that will be a pain to take out next time it becomes necessary.

hwa.jpg

[GeoffSmith]

So, I put my boroscope down the hole and it looks liked there is no metal exposed in there so first concern allayed but no way of inserting a tapping plate. I eventually got the jack nut broken up and retrieve with the magnet on the bottom of an RS inspection mirror - luckily one was to hand as we found about 6 in Dad's garage crates.

Img_0056cx640.jpg

I'm not replacing them with the same rust prone p.o.c. I only ever considered the gravity toggles as a temporary short term solution as they could be easily withdrawn before doing a long term fix but looking at the holes…

Img_0058cx640.jpg

I think rawlnuts are a viable option…

Img_0055cx640.jpg

I'll need a new stainless top plate of course…

Img_0057cx640.jpg

Wack some "S**t to a blanket" adhesive (to fix plastic cladding to masonary) in the holes…

Img_0059cx640.jpg

Cover with plastic, fit the top plate and gently tighten to set overnight…

Img_0060cx640.jpg

TO BE CONTINUED

[epipete]

Dontcha just love watching an artist at work.

No, seriously, nice job

[GeoffSmith]

Thanks Pete. My last two stainless hose clips for the chargecooler arrived today so hopefully it will all be going back together for next weekend's BOLLECKS.

[dapinky]

That's pretty well what I did on the red car - but without the stainless plate.

I do like that addition, and in the next week or two will be removing mine ready for the respray, so I'll probably copy your lead and do it the same way. Hopefully, if I can change all of the fittings' prior to the paint job it'll make it all a bit easier on the reassembly (and that'll include all of the clam/bumper fittings to be swapped for stainless bits - rather mess with them now than when it's got good paint on it!)

[GeoffSmith]

I'll lend<<<<sell you my Excel parts spreadsheet (including 1001 corrections) with it's special stainless fastener section if you want.

[Neil D.]

Recently found that the drivers door was making contact with the A panel when opening.
A pretty common problem with our cars.
Upon investigation, the fasteners were free of rust and in excellent condition, and the A panel correctly fitted, however the hinges interfeer with the A panel.
Upon futher investigation, it turns out that the check strap had sheared at the inner pin hole location, allowing the door to open to wide, thus pulling the A panel outwards.
Bit of welding, and all is now good
Just thought this may help anybody investigation A panel to door contact
Neil