Lotus Elan Central

by **Fubar1764** » Sun 23.10.2005, 23:39

Grr.
So I finally decided to change out the 3rd taillight today. Got the halogen bulbs (have 6 in the event someone can't find them and needs a set). I try to get to the screws. The front ones came off with some dust, but the rears wouldn't move! What should I use to get them unfrozen?

by **Doc Fizzix** » Mon 24.10.2005, 00:34

Did you strip out the screw top? Are you using a ratchet drive with a phillips attachment? The rachet drive will give you a little more torque as long as the top of the head is not stripped out.

I had a hard time with my first Elan getting the screws out of the 3rd taillight also

by **Exbury** » Mon 24.10.2005, 12:07

Using a proper rest penetrator may have some success, or a titanium drill bit to take out the screw head, then a molegrip on the stub once the cover has been removed might do it.

The right sized screwdriver head/bit can give a lot more leverage. However I am in favour of drilling the head off as the heat generated can help free the rust enabling the shaft to come out a bit easier.

When using a drill bit, the bit should only be as wide as the width of the screw threads, the aim is not to get one the width of the screw head.

Otherwise best of luck!!

by **Fubar1764** » Tue 25.10.2005, 04:56

I was thinking more along the lines of a weak acid or a penetrating oil recommendation. Oh well, not much of an emergency. Just the third tail light.

by **Doc Fizzix** » Wed 26.10.2005, 03:09

Ooops! Not a phillips, it is an allan (spelling??) wrench bit. I do not think you can get a drill up there but you might want to try Liquid Wrench. I would still try using an allan (spelling??) wrench bit attached to a rachet drive.

Maybe it is called a "hex" bit?

by **nitroman** » Mon 10.04.2006, 05:49

On Elan #1 I had to use a mini-diamond cutting wheel attached to my regular drill. If you have a Dremel or a "remote-extension-shaft" for your drill that will make it easier still. Jack, I'll send you some of the 3/4" diamond cutting wheels.

The aim is to cut a new straight-slot in the screw-head that a regular screwdriver will fit into. I've used this method on many different applications and have always met with success.

This is what I'm talking about: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8914675466&category=34087

by **Ashaman** » Mon 10.04.2006, 06:12

Jack, I used Exbury's method as well. Just make sure the bit is sharp, because the heat generated can damage the plastic around it if you are not careful (keep it cool).

Replace them with stainless!

I think that has to be my #1 gripe about the Elan:

Cheap/crappy fasteners in fiberglass/plastic panels! The couple bucks in stainless could have saved me hours of work by now !

by **Exbury** » Mon 10.04.2006, 14:37

Glad it worked, I forgot to mention the heat issue. I have to look at removing all thin-headed screws from the front wheel arch liners. Not a job I am looking forward too

by **muley** » Tue 11.04.2006, 08:45

Exbury wrote:Glad it worked, I forgot to mention the heat issue. I have to look at removing all thin-headed screws from the front wheel arch liners. Not a job I am looking forward too

Well, I had to take an angle grinder to ALL my liner bolts.

Now I've got to get the remains out - probably by drilling them.

They'll be replaced with stainless bolts.

Good luck with yours

Jim B

by **nitroman** » Tue 11.04.2006, 18:25

Most of the liner-bolts are just held in by rawl-nuts. That is good because instead of drilling out the hole & retapping (actually there are several valid options) all you have to do is put in a new rawl-nut to retain the new screw!

And, as to why some of you guys just cut off the screw-head leaving the "shank" still threaded in the hole, well, I just like my method better. To me that would be a "method of last resort" once I had exhausted all other options.

by **muley** » Wed 12.04.2006, 08:38

nitroman wrote:Most of the liner-bolts are just held in by rawl-nuts. That is good because instead of drilling out the hole & retapping (actually there are several valid options) all you have to do is put in a new rawl-nut to retain the new screw!

And, as to why some of you guys just cut off the screw-head leaving the "shank" still threaded in the hole, well, I just like my method better. To me that would be a "method of last resort" once I had exhausted all other options.

That's a top tip, Nitroman, and I do use it. But dealing with rust created by 15 English winters on our salt-laden roads can call for more extreme solutions!

pip pip

Jim B

by **Doug** » Wed 12.04.2006, 09:24

what's the title of this thread ? ? ? :roll:

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