Window mechanism question

[Steve A]

Would I be correct in saying that :
In basic terms,
When the window comes to a physical stop the motor senses the current change and stops the power to the switch ?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Basically, YES

[Steve A]

I was thinking of limiting the travel on how far the glass goes down.
This is because of my new window seals (they are higher)and also the nylon block which carries
the glass was broken on both sides (now replaced) so it's obviously a weakness.
Once the block is broken it will crab and slow the window down.
just thinking about the best way to go about it.

[chrisP]

Some kind of manufactured block mounted to the central raiser rail - where the cable runs. Or maybe adjustable stops on each rail front and rear - that way you could adjust (slightly) the angle the window comes to a rest

[Brit-Car-Nut]

The "UP" stops are metal brackets that the upstop cones run into and the raised electrical current from the motor stalling stops the progress.

Anything that blocks the motion of the glass will stop the motion, so a carefully placed rubber bit that will safely block the window on it's downward path will probably work.

If you duplicate the travel block idea, you will need to put two stops in place so the glass doesn't rotate/twist.

I have a door apart right now, so I will see if I can test the concept.

[Steve A]

The "UP" stops are metal brackets that the upstop cones run into and the raised electrical current from the motor stalling stops the progress.

Anything that blocks the motion of the glass will stop the motion, so a carefully placed rubber bit that will safely block the window on it's downward path will probably work.

If you duplicate the travel block idea, you will need to put two stops in place so the glass doesn't rotate/twist.

I have a door apart right now, so I will see if I can test the concept.

You will see from my other posts that I had a bobbin missing along with a few other essentials that were broken
so I'm quite or should I say too familiar with the set up quality does not spring to mind, fragile does!
Your spot on with what should or shouldn't be done, the aim is to stop the glass without stressing it in any way.
I've got my drivers side working as good as it could be but just want to limit the down stroke .
I wouldn't advise anybody to lower their windows all the way down if they can help it, it's just not very durable.

[roy666]

Hi Steve - I've become a bit of an expert on repairing and replacing the window system... I've done it so may times now! I replaced the window regulator with the Peugeot 405 drive and the trick is to rewind the wires tightly and measured correctly. There is a method. I then taped together two gel keyboard wrist support strips on the base of the door..stuck down with a sikaflex. They fit quite well and now the glass stops/rests snugly/safely on the gel strips. I also blanked off the the bottom holes in the door, so its pretty much water tight... apart from some that seeps in from the window seals (which I also replaced)... not much to worry about though. The 405 regualtor is fantastic.. none the ridiculous clutch jerkiness that you get with the OEM one... its smooth and stops nicely without a jolt. I have replaced the plastic channel blocks and the current ones are going strong 4 years old. Good luck. M

[Steve A]

Hi Steve - I've become a bit of an expert on repairing and replacing the window system... I've done it so may times now! I replaced the window regulator with the Peugeot 405 drive and the trick is to rewind the wires tightly and measured correctly. There is a method. I then taped together two gel keyboard wrist support strips on the base of the door..stuck down with a sikaflex. They fit quite well and now the glass stops/rests snugly/safely on the gel strips. I also blanked off the the bottom holes in the door, so its pretty much water tight... apart from some that seeps in from the window seals (which I also replaced)... not much to worry about though. The 405 regualtor is fantastic.. none the ridiculous clutch jerkiness that you get with the OEM one... its smooth and stops nicely without a jolt. I have replaced the plastic channel blocks and the current ones are going strong 4 years old. Good luck. M

That's interesting, did you do a write up of the 405 motors ?
When you say you replaced the plastic channel blocks what did you replace them with, something different or new ?

[Steve A]

The method of restricting the downwards movement of the glass has proved to be a simple one.
I have glued two blocks of stiff closed cell foam at the bottom of the door.
It's perfect for the job as it's durable very light and easy to work with.