Identify this part...

[Squirtydog]

Had the door card off to locate the source of a proper nasty buzz/rattle resonating with bass notes from the speaker - thus rendering my nice new Bluetooth stereo useless!... And found this rolling around in the door.



Any ideas what it is? Hasn't got rid if the buzz though I suspect that could be difficult to sort.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

It is the Glass Stop. Two of them are attached to each door glass to limit the total upward movement. When the glass is fully up, they also help to keep it steady.

[Squirtydog]

Thanks for the quick reply. Also found a small metal part... Around 10mm x 20mm flat with central threaded captive nut sort of affair. Looks like part 48 I think. Both at the rear of the door. Need to work out if I can reattach them.

...shifter still feeling great.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Thanks for the quick reply. Also found a small metal part... Around 10mm x 20mm flat with central threaded captive nut sort of affair. Looks like part 48 I think. Both at the rear of the door. Need to work out if I can reattach them.

...shifter still feeling great.

Yep, that is the "T" nut that holds it to the glass. You can just assemble it thru the glsass with a bit if HD silicone to keep it in place. The barrel goes thru the hole in the glass so the screw/nut process doesn't break the glass. A little bit of BLUE loctite (the lock nut locker compared to the red loctite stud/bearing locker).

[Squirtydog]

Again thanks.
I'll give it a shot.

[Jeemy]

I literally just fitted these metal bits back on yesterday using JB Plastic Weld, worked really well.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I don't know that JB Plastic weld is rated for bonding metal to glass. Many RTV Silicones and Urethanes do this nicely.

I would use the same windscreen mounting urethane like betaseal to make sure things stayed bonded.

[Jeemy]

Claims it on the packet, and I had it handy. I've bought a bundle of the JB products over the last few weeks and to be honest they all claim wonderful things, and applications, but all seem to be varying heat-rated epoxies. What they do get, is very positive reviews everywhere they are used. I am about to test the JB Weld stuff on some cracked metals and hope for positive results. My engineer business partner knew and rated the name immediately when i couldn't remember it (him and all his cronies are performance car nuts).

JB plastic weld is (according to the packet) rated for glass. Betaseal is messy stuff and hard to remove, I chose something that could be cut with a knife if necessary, you will see shortly that due to user error (not on this project) I have had to cut it away and reshape it, something Betaseal isn't kind with.

Once the screw is in, its kinda set anyway, and I would say on balance that the Betaseal would be a kinder fitment due to elasticity. I just found it such a pig to remove that I chose something else.

A good compromise between Sika and Beta is Tiger seal, something i am reverting to more and more on plastic/bodywork fitment. Its cheap and keeps better 'in the tin' than either Sika or Beta.

[Squirtydog]

Thanks for the help. Looks like I need to find a 45 and a 47 in there somewhere.

[GeoffSmith]

#45 is an M5 x 20 screw
#47 is a "washer, cone retaining"

Don't be surprised if you don't find #47 because I didn't - been there, done that this weekend! If anyone does know what #47 is then I'd be interested to hear from them. And as a temporary measure, I used "s**t to a blanket" plastic cladding adhesive as being the nearest alternative to hand.

[Jeemy]

I think 47 is a little plastic washer. I've glued mine back on now, but there appears to be a small plastic fluted (?) washer sitting around the threaded socket on the metal piece no48 which helps it locate to the window hole. Its got a raised ring to the inner circumference.

I can't really see in what way it would really "retain" the cone other than the cone has a bit that kind of mates to it and it may help it to centre, but so would the protruding piece of the cone that goes into the window hole at the other side.

On my older ones, its so old and perished it just looks like part of the gunk and would probably come away in pieces on removal. So a bit of gunk would be an eminent replacement. On the newer ones its clean plastic and is either glued or stuck fast with gunk/time, to 48.

[Squirtydog]

Cheers. Have a bunch of M5 x20 screws that used to hold the door card on underneath the carpet.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Be careful. The screw is a FLAT head:

Metric Flat Head Phillips Machine Screws
Head is beveled 90°. Length is measured from the top of the head.

screw.jpg

[Squirtydog]

Just checked. Mine are 30mm so no good. They are spare so could cut one down.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

To cut them, remember to thread a few 5mm nuts on first then cut the screw. Round off the fresh end with a file or grinder. Back the nuts off to clean up the threads.

[Squirtydog]

Good tip thanks.

[epipete]

I may have the wrong end of the stick here but when I dismantled my doors these bobbins were easy to release; had they been 'glued' to the glass it would have made it impossible to remove the window so I'd be wary of applying anything of great strength.

[Jeemy]

The bobbins aren't glued, its the metal bits that are.

[epipete]

You mean items #20 & 60? It would be good to fabricate these as mine were very badly rusted on the rear if the glass!

[Jeemy]

Can't be hard, I have spares. I delegate yoU!