Windows Motor Cable Snapped

[TheBard]

Hi Phil,

Having done this before, all I did was use a pair of pliers to gently bend the tab (using a vice or clamp to ensure just the tab got bent) at the top end of the rail, then sliding it on. Your recent photo shows them correctly fitted on the outside of the bow, not the inside between the pulleys.

The tab only needs bending by about 45% to give you space to wriggle the slider into position, it can then be gently bent back into place. Slight heating to the metal might aid the bending, but I wouldn't heat the plastic as it might have nasty side effects.

Hope that helps.

Ian

[surfboardfiller]

Hi Phil,

Having done this before, all I did was use a pair of pliers to gently bend the tab (using a vice or clamp to ensure just the tab got bent) at the top end of the rail, then sliding it on. Your recent photo shows them correctly fitted on the outside of the bow, not the inside between the pulleys.

The tab only needs bending by about 45% to give you space to wriggle the slider into position, it can then be gently bent back into place. Slight heating to the metal might aid the bending, but I wouldn't heat the plastic as it might have nasty side effects.

Hope that helps.

Ian

Cheers Ian;
That sounds absolutely spot on, I wish I had gone and bought a decent vice instead of being impatient. I'll go and buy one. So many times I need to do something and wish I still had my old vice.
Stupidly I gave all my heavy tools away when I moved to Spain.

Phil

[TheBard]

Hi Phil,

Since the metal slider channel is so narrow I eventually clamped mine to my workshop table with a large C-clamp. This gripped the center portion of the channel cleanly without risking any pressure or bending to the outer slider rail edge.

You only need to bend the end tab a small amount, and you really don't want to risk bending any other part of the window bow.

Oh, and before you put the new slider onto the rail make sure you've got it the right way up, and fit the left slider to the left rail or the right slider to the right rail. Not sure why they made them different but the slider blocks are 'sided'.

Best of luck,

Ian

[Ekapol]

Hi Phil,

Having done this before, all I did was use a pair of pliers to gently bend the tab (using a vice or clamp to ensure just the tab got bent) at the top end of the rail, then sliding it on. Your recent photo shows them correctly fitted on the outside of the bow, not the inside between the pulleys.

The tab only needs bending by about 45% to give you space to wriggle the slider into position, it can then be gently bent back into place. Slight heating to the metal might aid the bending, but I wouldn't heat the plastic as it might have nasty side effects.

Hope that helps.

Ian

Having done this before, it just took a bit of bending. I had another lock pliers few inches from the top and use another pliers to pry it out a bit. Doesn't require a lot of force at all, I don't think you even need to use the vise.

Only a tiny bit of bending is needed

[surfboardfiller]

Thanks guys, it's on now and the window is up and working as it should.

Thanks to Dave T for his replacement winder mechanism.

[Allen G]

Having just suffered the same fate as Ekapol, and thanks to his great write up I have just completed a 'Pug 405' transplant. Never knew the window could go up and down soo smooth!
One caution however, I purchased said Pug regulator on Ebay advertised as the real article. I suspect it was an aftermarket replacement as it looked nothing like the one Ekapol showed in his photos. All the fixings were in the right place but otherwise it was very differant. No alloy housing, just black plastic with a thin steel plate sandwiched in between, no push out bolts that could be replaced with the original items these were hex bar threaded at one end into a bolt at the other they had tapped holes which screwed down onto 'welded' bolts in the body. Remove said hex bolts insert 3 washers under them apply loctight and scew bolts back on. Bolts now sit 3/8 higher and allow for fitting to door. I also left the Pug wire coverings in place. These are very differant from the Lotus set up as the spring end sits against the motor housing and the other end is a plastic housing which required me to cut the end of the lifter bar where the holes for the cables are and turn them into slots.
Yes it would have been easier to photo this lot but you know how it is you dont have a lot of time and you just want to get it done.

Bottom line if you are looking at a regulator transplant, no worry it all took just 3 hours including the mods to the lifter bar (door already prep'd). To avoid the after market regulator challenges the part number to avoid unless all else fails is AC380 for a Peugeot 405 made by Magneti Marelli (£50 from Auto Elecrical outlets..or Ebay)

Ekapol; many thanks my friend for your frontiering and write up skills.

[Ekapol]

Having just suffered the same fate as Ekapol, and thanks to his great write up I have just completed a 'Pug 405' transplant. Never knew the window could go up and down soo smooth!

Welcome to the club & congratulations !!

Fun, ain't it

[Specky]

Missed this one...

I just bent the lug back a little at the bottom of the metal runner...

Just enough to get the slider on, then dressed it back...

How's that for a slow reply...

TTFN

[Alan_C]

Thanks Ian. Your writing told me that there is hope. This can be done

Got parts for making new cables.



Dremel cut in half.



No, they're not from "Tiffany & Co."

My left side door motor is ker-nackered, seems the drive pinion is slipping against the big cog, it just clicks alot. Everything else seems in good order, so I'll order a Pug 405 rear motor asembly and swap the slider. In doing so, I'll need to shorten the cables, anyone know where I can get these double entry ferrules from in the UK?

Alan C

[Alan_C]

Found a supplier of ferrules, no minumum order either, went for the copper as not sure I could crimp the stainless ones without the propper tool:

http://www.tecni-cable.co.uk/Stainless- ... -Wire-Rope

[Alan_C]

The Pug window motor required modification, as expected. The mounting bolts are too short, they were rivited on, so ground the tops off and replaced with longer bolts secured with a nut. I cut the ferrules off the old and new assemblies, swapped the old outer cable fittings over to the new ones after the new ones were shortened, fitted the old slider mech, new ferrules and that was it. Not very hard, and the window now is much better, not brilliant as I think one of the fixed sliders had a kink, but at least it now goes fully up and down.

[superbad]

Tackled this today (replaced a snapped cable on the RH window regulator), thanks everyone for the excellent pics and info. Surprisingly easy, maybe 2 hours of actual working time, plus another hour or two of looking at it, searching for new regulators online, going to buy new cable etc.

One more tip- like happened to Ekapol, the screw that holds the center of the cable spool cover stripped out of the threaded boss in the housing. It's fine thread going into soft cast zinc, it's crap. I just drilled out the housing and used an M4x35 screw with a lock nut on the back side of the motor body.

[Ekapol]

Excellent tip Superbad