Window drop for external strip replacement

[Beats]

Hi,

Has anyone had any luck with just dropping the window to get to the weatherstrip strip screws or is it a window out job?

I have taken the trim off and found the c clip on my butterfly appears to be missing so could I be looking at a previous visitors bodge (there is evidence of broken glass in the bottom of the door)?

I'm tempted to put it all back together again and live with the knackered weatherstrip!

Help!

Beats

[Gazza]

When I did it I removed the glass, as it seemed the only way to get to the last screw.

Gazza

[GeoffSmith]

Check the link on the Wiki to Gordon's write up.

[Beats]

Is removing the whole window a case of removal from the butterfly and the stop bobbin things (god i'm so technical)!

[Beats]

Removing the C clip, popping the window off the centre bracket (butterfly bit) and pushing it down further is not the answer. The rear slider came out of its channel and is now wedged at the bottom. I just found this out at lunch time - cars in the work car park with one window all the way down. It's going to be a chilly journey home later.

[dermotbell]

Removing the C clip, popping the window off the centre bracket (butterfly bit) and pushing it down further is not the answer. The rear slider came out of its channel and is now wedged at the bottom. I just found this out at lunch time - cars in the work car park with one window all the way down. It's going to be a chilly journey home later.

Hope it's not a long journey.

[Beats]

My ears cold cold but it didn't rain.
Window is out now and so are all but 2 of the weatherstrip screws - looks like I'll have to drill them out. Then it's a case of fitting the Gordon spec new one and hoping it all goes back together ok.

[Steve A]

The best way for me was to remove the glass, then the old seal, do what you have to do with the new seal, replace the glass in the rails, fit the new seal with the glass sitting at the botom of the door, you will not be able to replace all the fixing screws as the glass will be in the way.
Then you lift the glass to the point where it's almost out but below the new seal, you will be able to fit the remaining screws.
If you fit the new seal before you replace the glass you will find it very difficult to get it back in.

[Beats]

Cheers, I'll remember that for the other side! Passenger side looks good now though.

[Candles]

If you fit the new seal before you replace the glass you will find it very difficult to get it back in.

Yes, I concur. I've just spent half the afternoon doing the weatherstrip, and the other half trying to get the window back in. You have to lever apart the door with so much force that it is just too difficult and too risky to the window pane. I'll be undoing some screws tomorrow and hoping for better results.

Candles.

PS As a footnote, I don't think my passenger's door had been opened since manufacture. Amazing considering that is 18 years ago!

[nitroman]

Try this http://www.rodneydickman.com/n25.html

BTW if you look under "transaxle" he has UPRATED Isuzu shifter cables too. Are these the same as our car?

He also has a $16 repair kit for broken cables!

Also, is his (Isuzu tranny bronze bush kit) the same length as our cross-gate piece? If so it would give a smoother shift feel.

[Jeemy]

I tried dropping the window and although no slider dropped out of the channel, I still couldn't access the screws. So I had to remove the glass.

For me there was still too much force to be exerted to try and push the rear slider out past the metal header strip - even after loosening the track.

So I also had to drill out 2 rivets from this strip to bend it out of the way and let the slider past:

P1010878.jpg

I prefer drilling these two rivets to forcing the fibreglass out of place, and given the small additional effort to remove the window completely compared to dropping it, which means you can then clean and re-lubricate the tracks & sliders, I think its a better way to do the job all-in-all - because once the glass is out you have much better access to the weatherstrip screws themselves - meaning if they are corroded you've got a better chance of getting enough outwards force on them to prevent the screwdriver slipping - drilling them out is not too much of a problem as they are in fibreglass but to do it well you'd need longer drill bits than I had.

But was I missing something? Does that strip have to be displaced to get the rear slider past? Or should I/could I have forced it? When I put it back together I'll probably re-rivet it or glue it.

[epipete]

No, don't force it, although forcing it will work there is a risk of damage. Just drill out the rivets from the strip the slider passes through the gap without undue strain then. Use new rivets when the job is done - so much easier.