Timing Belt

[Neil D.]

Just some more info that may be added to the wiki ( re timing belt replacement )
As I am in the process of doing mine at the moment, I have some fresh information that may be useful.

As everyone has mentionned in the past, it is a task were patience is needed.

To remove the botom pulley, It is simple to make tool, A flat bar 20 mm thick , by 80 mm wide and approx 300 long should suffice.
A hole of diameter >25 mm is needed at one end so that a 17 mm socket may pass through ( I made a 35 mm for added clearance )
Either side of this hole 2 smaller holes on which 5mm dia dowel pins may be fitted. ( centre to centre 52 mm )

The alternative easy way out is topurchase: FACOM DT.CLE
http://www.uktools.com/poulies-p-23119.html

THe longest part of the job ( for me ) was removing the 4 bolts that connect the engine mount to the block. Yes you will need a small 8 mm ratchet spanner and a short length of ground allen key ( 8 )

It is good to fit the short length of allen key into the rachet end using a thin layer of tape, this will prevent it sliding out of the spanner when you try and enter the bolt head.
Also to prevent damage to the head of the bolt ( these are fitted with thread lock ) i used a small piece of woof profile 15 mm x 20 mm x 500 mm, to keep pressure between the allen bit and the bolt head. Slippage will eventually damage the bolt.

For better access remove the bottom pulley, you do not need to have the timing marks aligned at this point, as the power steering pulley, is independant from the timing belt, and access is greatly improved.

Tensioning is made by a clockwise rotation of the allen key in the tensionner, and not anticlockwise as specified in the shop manual.

Removal, refitting and timing are mickey mouse compared to the dismantelling.

Tonight rebuild, not looking forward to putting tension on the alternator belt.

Word of warning:
I inspected my belt after removal, and there was a 1mm diameter hole from one side of the belt to the other, looks like the Gods of the elastic band were on my side. Let's say I was very lucky to have caught it on time.

Voila, tout est dit.

Neil

[Specky]

Here's my top tips...

When you come to crack the pulley nut... fit the space saver to the front right and turn the steering fully right.

This way you have a straight drive, you can steady the whole thing on the wheel, but you can also you put an extension through the wheel to react against the calliper.

I had the car in 5th, the hand brake on and the car was still going backwards.

The nut broke at 500 Nm...Chuffing tight.

As for a tool to undo the engine bracket I use a modified 5/16th (8mm) oil pan socket, it works a treat as you can put a 19mm spanner on it.

Here's a couple of pics, the Tq wrench is next to a 14mm combi spaner for scale, this is the Tq wrench I used to crack the nut.







TTFN

[Neil D.]

Facom also have this box set:
http://www.bricospirit.com/2366-coffret ... j31pb.html

Lots of space gained as the drive is 3/8 square but female.
Will replace the 8mm ratchet spanner

This is what I plan to use for re assembly tonight

N

[rip]

Here's my top tips...
Here's a couple of pics, the Tq wrench is next to a 14mm combi spaner for scale, this is the Tq wrench I used to crack the nut.

That's a beast of a torque wrench, Dave!
I got a better sense of scale from the house bricks though

[Neil D.]

Additional not:

The facom ratchet set works wonders for refitting the engine mount.

The engine mount should be repositioned BEFORE the top cam cover is refitted...

That's all

Neil

[Specky]

It's still a bugger to do the central bolt up on the upper cam cover.

What were Lotus thinking...

Here's my top tips...
Here's a couple of pics, the Tq wrench is next to a 14mm combi spaner for scale, this is the Tq wrench I used to crack the nut.

That's a beast of a torque wrench, Dave!
I got a better sense of scale from the house bricks though

It's got a few uses....



TTFN

[dapinky]

It's got a few uses....

Yep, it's NEARLY big enough to obsure how dirty the car is



(says me with an equally grubby daily driver )

[Neil D.]

It's still a bugger to do the central bolt up on the upper cam cover.

What were Lotus thinking...

That was simple ( really easy ) adjusting the alternator was a pain ( I have a LHD )

Neil

[saska]

In the process of changing cambelt and followed the advice of 'crack the 'kin tight crankshaft bolt first'. Not having a dirty great torque wrench á la Specky, decided to try the method in the Isuzone article of using the starter.
Chocked both rear wheels, handbrake hard on. Jacked the right front via the suspension jack point, set it back down onto wood blocks with a 34mm scoket on top, at the front body jack point. Removed the O/S/F wheel. Used a good quality 17mm socket on the crankshaft bolt, bar and 30" of thick scaffold tube. Turned the engine using the crankshaft nut until the bar faces down and forward toward the large hole in the plastic undertray. Slid the scaffold pole through the plastic hole onto the breaker bar, other end of scaffold bar on the ground or in my case one of the pit railway ties.
I removed the spark plug leads so the engine can't start. Gearbox in neutral, hit the starter for 1 second. Result!
Once the car was in the air and wheel off it took 10 minutes. Added this method to Dapinky's Wiki article.

[Specky]

The fun bit is trying to line the cam belt drive wheel up...that's dead easy to move...

It all goes well till you apply some bloomin tension to the belt...

I can now see why the cam cover "Marked" 16 degrees isn't really important...I doubt there's many Elans that line up bang on.

TTFN