Introducing ElanLogger

[Bern]

Looking at the code I can see there's a comment about changing the SERIAL_RX_BUFFER_SIZE, I hadn't done that, so I will and try it again.

Though I'm supposed to be working at the moment, so I'll have to try it later!

[matts1972]

Looking at the code I can see there's a comment about changing the SERIAL_RX_BUFFER_SIZE, I hadn't done that, so I will and try it again.

Though I'm supposed to be working at the moment, so I'll have to try it later!

Hi Bern,
Yes, you need to change the buffer size. However, you typically would get an "empty" .ecu-file like this if there is not data received on the interface.
ElanLogger closes the file as soon as it does not hear from your car for 3 seconds. So ignition needs to be on before turning on Elanlogger, or else Elanlogger will listen for 3 seconds and then close the .ecu-file that contains nothing but a mostly empty header.
Best regards
Matthias

[Bern]

Hi Matthias,

Thanks for the reply

I did have the ignition on before turning the logger on, but the engine wasn't running - I started the engine whilst the logger was on - would that make a difference?

I'll try it again tomorrow.

Cheers,

Bern.

[matts1972]

Hi Matthias,

Thanks for the reply

I did have the ignition on before turning the logger on, but the engine wasn't running - I started the engine whilst the logger was on - would that make a difference?

I'll try it again tomorrow.

Cheers,

Bern.

Ignition-on will keep the interface talking - so you did the right thing.
There seems to be a connectivity-issue, then. Make sure everything is connected properly. The diode is for protection only, but the two 100 ohm resistors are required to get data.

However, you probably should sort out the buffer-issue first. The small buffer might in fact result in invalid packets - having the same effect as no packets at all. Hence this might be the only issue, after all.

[GeoffSmith]

Hi Matthias,

Thanks for the reply

I did have the ignition on before turning the logger on, but the engine wasn't running - I started the engine whilst the logger was on - would that make a difference?

I'll try it again tomorrow.

Cheers,

Bern.

Another possibility: When you crank the engine, the battery voltage drops and dependent on how the Arduino supply is regulated will determine whether it continues to run until the engine starts. I originally had this problem with my Bluetooth interface (which, having software involved took forever to re-establish itself) so I designed a robust two stage regulator circuit that maintains the BT supply for a lot longer then I'd care to crank the car and the BT connection is maintained throughout.

[Giniw]

(Talking about that, the Elan is the only car I know that let the radio on when cranking almost every time!)

[Bern]

Another possibility: When you crank the engine, the battery voltage drops and dependent on how the Arduino supply is regulated will determine whether it continues to run until the engine starts. I originally had this problem with my Bluetooth interface (which, having software involved took forever to re-establish itself) so I designed a robust two stage regulator circuit that maintains the BT supply for a lot longer then I'd care to crank the car and the BT connection is maintained throughout.

That's what I was thinking, next time I'll try it both ways!

[Bern]

Finally found time to sort this out!

Not sure what the issue was, I re-arranged some of the program and got it to create a debug file, but then it started working anyway!

But could it be any coincidence that I tried it out on Sunday, no errors, then 20 miles into a 100 mile journey yesterday I got the engine management warning light coming on occasionally?

At least I could diagnose the problem when I got home - CAS sensor. I've ordered a new one along with a new oil seal - I know how to change that after seeing it done at Castle Coombe last year

Thanks again Matt, a very useful tool!

Cheers,

Bern.

[matts1972]

Finally found time to sort this out!
Not sure what the issue was, I re-arranged some of the program and got it to create a debug file, but then it started working anyway!

It is good to read that you got it to work, Bern. Thanks for the feedback.

Some additional tips for trouble shooting (someone might find those handy in the future):

• It is good practice to start the car first and then to switch on ElanLogger (because of the voltage drop while starting the engine, as discussed earlier in this thread).
• the built-in LED ("L") on the Arduino board should then stay off (or go off within a second or two). This is a sign that all is good and ElanLogger is receiving data - the LED will stay off until the ignition is turned off.
• Should instead the LED start blinking (either slowly or fast) this means that ElanLogger has stopped receiving data (or never got data) or that there is another problem (fast blinking). This will not recover - you need to start over (and fix the issue first).

Cheers
Matt

[matts1972]

Hi all,

Small update after one year of successful ElanLogger usage:
My Arduino board died today after porlonged exposure to 14 volts from our car's alternator.
It turned out that Chinese Arduino Uno R3 clones use a voltage regulator that is only rated for 15 volts max instead of 20 volts like on genuine Arduino boards.
The good news is that nowadays a new Arduino Uno R3 clone costs less than 3 GBP including shipping to Europe. So the damage is small (also, the board still runs when connected to USB, just the voltage regulator was fried).

A solution could be an external 5v voltage regulator or an improvised heat shield on the Arduino voltage regulator (BTW the Chinese use an AMS1117-5 instead of the original NCP1117ST50T3G). Any suggestions are welcome.

Cheers,
Matthias

[Elanlover]

.........Any suggestions are welcome.

Uhmmm....don't buy Chinese?

[matts1972]

.........Any suggestions are welcome.

Uhmmm....don't buy Chinese?

With this kind of thinking I would not have bought an Elan in the first place



On a more serious note: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Products/Counterfeit

[RonR]

Had a bit of a hiccup with the display software.
No matter what I did I couldn't get the code to fit on the Arduino Uno and run reliably, the Arduino Mega was overkill (big and expensive) so the project went on the back burner.

However a few weeks ago I discovered that there's an alternative big brother to the UNO's AtMega328 CPU that can be used with the Arduino programming environment.
The AtMega1284p has 4 x the Program storage, Flash and RAM. One was ordered, breadboarded and the software loaded onto it. Success!
This version uses an LT1086 regulator to supply 5V, a more accurate clock (DS3231) and a light detector (BH1750), used to automatically adjust the display brightness.
This was taken just after starting up from cold:


Next steps:
Test while driving.
Hard-wire a prototype on a circuit board to test in day-to-day operation.
Addition of start-up checks and a "Status" display for Memory card, ECM Data presence, etc.
Migrate to a Multitasking environment to allow further developments.

A few more ideas have occurred - like adding a SatNav/Mobile Phone/Bluetooth card which could give:
Automatic clock correction using SatNav time.
Journey recording by saving location every minute, or addition of location data to ElanScan file.
Bluetooth interaction with the Car's stereo to give audible warnings of errors, overheating, etc.
A text sent to your Mobile Phone with the car's location whenever the car starts up. (Requires a SIM card).
Using Mobile Data to upload Elanscan files to an Internet-based server. (Requires a SIM card).

[matts1972]

Had a bit of a hiccup with the display software.
No matter what I did I couldn't get the code to fit on the Arduino Uno and run reliably, the Arduino Mega was overkill (big and expensive) so the project went on the back burner.

However a few weeks ago I discovered that there's an alternative big brother to the UNO's AtMega328 CPU that can be used with the Arduino programming environment.

Hi Ron,
That is great news, bravo. The AtMega1284p seems to be the ideal choice.
I was also thinking about the ESP8266 family. It is cheap as chips, Arduino IDE compatible, has more power, flash and RAM and also comes with WIFI onboard. So it coud act as a wireless Elanscan interface as well.
Cheers
Matthias

[HJ2]

Awesome!

[CalElan]

Ok folks - stand by for an influx of stupid questions.
This has become my isolation project - ordered all the pieces and even found my soldering iron in the garage.

Be afraid - be very afraid!

[matts1972]

Ok folks - stand by for an influx of stupid questions.
This has become my isolation project - ordered all the pieces and even found my soldering iron in the garage.

Be afraid - be very afraid!

It will probably take less time than you expect to assemble this. Feel free to ask questions.
Cheers
Matthias

PS: what about a true isolation project, like "removal of the passenger seat"?

[matts1972]

A note for other builders:
I used the prototyping area on the logger board to build the ALDL interface circuit so it's hard wired to the Tx and Rx pins. However after doing this I got the error - "Avrdude Stk500_getsync(): Not in Sync Resp=0x30" when uploading the sketch - This error can sometimes appear when something is connected to the Arduino Rx pin. Unplugging the logger board allowed me to upload successfully.
Ron

Hi all,
I have edited my original post and rearranged the building instructions to reflect what Ron has mentioned above. The Arduino sketch needs to be loaded onto the Arduino Uno board before connecting the interface cable.
Cheers,
Matthias

[CalElan]

Thanks Matthias, I have all the pieces now, just need to make up the cable and connect it to the Elan.
That was kind of what was slowing me down as the Elan was in pieces!

I’ll report back shortly.

[CalElan]

I'm leaving the below comment in the hope it helps others - Don't buy the 12 pin Connector DO BUY THE 10 PIN CONNECTOR - as per the instructions.. DOH!


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Agggh, maybe I bought the wrong cable but I have no continuity between pin f and any of the leads coming out the cable.
I guess I can tap into pin F in the car and connect to the Arduino, we’ll see.
My plug supports A, B, G and M