Smaug's new headlights - Cibie CSR +50 Halogens

[tigerdog]

Smaug (91 BRG Fed-spec) was equipped with horridly myopic US-spec headlamps dating for the time of the car's manufacture. Horrid! No beam pattern but so dim as to not blind anyone, either.

I have purchased a set of Cibie CSR headlamps (main and dipped beams) and have set about fitting them this weekend. So far, only the right side is done, and what a difference! Reviews of these lamps are glowing (pun intended) and from what I can see, entirely accurate.

Of course, I planned to document the whole process but the LCD viewfinder of our camera decided to crack this weekend. Suffice to say, I am thrilled at the difference, though the neighbors might not have liked my firing up Smaug at midnight for a quick run around.

I'll continue this thread and try to document the remove/refit of the left side so you all can share in the joy and fun.

[tigerdog]

Apologies for the poor quality photos in this thread. I'm reduced to using my mobile phone camera to document the changes.

If you're wondering why I'd go to all the trouble of replacing lamps that hadn't failed, these photos say it all. The lamps on the left are 1990s-spec US headlamps. On the right are Cibie CSR lamps with Narva 55W "+50" high output bulbs.

[tigerdog]

At least with later pop-up (not opera-glasses) light pods, the process to change out the lamps is so simple, it hardly merits much discussion. Even so, I thought I'd share my handiwork.

Removal of the light pods is pretty simple:

- open the bonnet (duh)
- peer between the bracket attached to the lamp motors and the body shell. Make note of the number of spacer washers under each bolt.
- carefully remove the two bolts holding the hinge to the body
- watch as the spacers fall into the headlamp pod bucket.
- gently lift the pod and turn the manual headlamp-raising knob until the pivot is accessible

[tigerdog]

Once the pushrods are free, carefully set the pod on the soft cloth you have placed on the front bumper. Unplug the wiring from the lamps, remove the strain-relief screws. The pod can now be removed from the Elan and set on your workbench.

[tigerdog]

Take out the spacers and washers that inevitably fell into the bucket. Now is a good time to clean out the accumulated mung from the inside.

[tigerdog]

Disassembling the lamps takes no special talents and only a philips screwdriver. I first unscrewed the main mounting ring to detatch the lamps, set the pod safely aside then proceeded to disassemble the individual lamp units. I didn't take lots of photos of this process - it's straightforward. You can see the screws in the background, laid out in the order removed.

I neglected to take photos, but I painted the brackets and the lamp retaining ring with a fresh coat of primer and gloss black enamel.

I know others have opted to replace the screws with stainless steel. Probably not a bad idea in most climates. This California car's screws still had the original factory black oxide coating and almost no rust. I cleaned them up, applied some carnuba wax to the heads and a light coat of waterproof moly grease to the threads and when reassembling.

The photo below shows the partially-reassembled low beam. You can see
The Cibie CSR dipped lamp also includes a European-style "city lamp" that can be wired into the parking lamp circuit. I left these disconnected - doesn't do much good to have these go on with the parking lamps if the pods are down.

[tigerdog]

Of course, I neglected to photograph the reassembly since I was hurrying to finish before a neighborhood party with a waiting pitcher of margaritas.

Reassembly is a simple reverse of disassembly. Apply your favorite lubricant to all the pivots - pushrod ends, pivoting lever in the bucket, bracket hinges on the pod itself. I used Tri-flo, a Teflon-bearing penetrating oil. Pay careful attention to route the wiring so it doesn't bind when the pods are raised and lowered. Secure wiring with the strain relief clamps and screws.

Reattach the pivot pushrods, Loosely thread the bracket bolts in place and place the appropriate number of spacer washers underneath before tightening.

Here's what the lamps looked like before being placed into the pods.

[tigerdog]

Reinstalled. You can see the original screws - looking like they've been removed and replaced, but not like they've been installed for 16 years! In the side view, you can see the newly repainted brackets and the original bolts and washers, polished up using Simichrome metal polish. I'll post the finished look at the beams after dark tonight.

Excellent instructions for aiming CSRs and other e-code headlamps can be found at Daniel Stern's excellent web site.

[Doug]

Excellent work and write-up

you get a cookie for cleaning up the mung properly too!

[Elanlover]

I fine write-up indeed. And I'll be using it in 2 weeks as I've ordered in a 5001/5006 to H4 upgrade kit which I will then add Xenon bulbs and ballasts to. If I may be so bold, I'd add that doing one side at a time is probably best (looks like you did that anyway) so that if you forget how things go back together you'll have a guide of sorts with the other side!

[nitroman]

Tigerdawg... Is it worth the $450 price? Perhaps I'm getting old, or maybe adding top-dollar/top-quality Hella driving-lights (as well as the best halogen sealed-beam headlamps I could locally buy) to my other convertible make the Elan's light output seem inadequate.

BTW, first rate (painting/cleaning/parts-chosen) Tigerdog!
P.S. - How 'cum your Cibie lamps don't have the metal CS-Cibie plaque?

[tigerdog]

Tigerdawg... Is it worth the $450 price? Perhaps I'm getting old, or maybe adding top-dollar/top-quality Hella driving-lights (as well as the best halogen sealed-beam headlamps I could locally buy) to my other convertible make the Elan's light output seem inadequate.

BTW, first rate (painting/cleaning/parts-chosen) Tigerdog!
P.S. - How 'cum your Cibie lamps don't have the metal CS-Cibie plaque?

Worth the price? Depends on yer budget, I guess. In my mind, yes! Halogen "sealed beams" don't even come close. I've had Hellas before and even they don't match these lamps. Biggest diff is, Hella lamps use a shield to mask off the part of the lamp that would send low-beam light above the cutoff. These lamps do it with clever reflector design. Net result is much brighter low beams than the Hellas. Especially with the +50 bulbs, they provide more useable light (to my eyes) than even the latest Xenon HID lamps. No idea why the "CS-Cibie" badge is missing, but don't care. I don't want to call attention to them, just want to see at night. To that end, I like them lots and would DEFINITELY buy them again.

[TheBard]

Brilliant write up.

I'm glad you got similar improvement to my own experiences. I went a budget route using EuroPal light fixtures from a budget parts supplier. The high output bulbs make a huge difference over the old sealed beams, and clean reflectors with focused glass lenses makes for a non-dazzling but much better lit commute.

I suppose I better do the main beams at some point but they get very little use in this area, too much traffic!

Cheers,
Ian

[tigerdog]

I went a budget route using EuroPal light fixtures from a budget parts supplier.

Thanks Ian. I'm curious: do the EuroPal fixtures use a shield between the low beam bulb and its reflector to limit the light scatter above cutoff? Or is cutoff achieved solely with clever reflector and lens design?

[nitroman]

This will tease & temp me for a while, and as with most things like that, I'll eventually break-down & get them. I too like the design of the H1 lamps, as any H4 system will by bulb design not use the upper half of the main beam's reflector area.

A good comparison picture is one taken both ante/post change, of the car illuminating the same stretch of DARK road.

[tigerdog]

A good comparison picture is one taken both ante/post change, of the car illuminating the same stretch of DARK road.

Yes and ideally with manual camera and the same shutter speed and aperture settings . Unfortunately, that would have required

forethought
planning
patience

and I was in a hurry to play with my new toys. So you get before and after against the garage door.

[TheBard]

The light pattern is all down to clever lens etching. It was the reason I chose the EuroPal housings, since most others in that price range were plastic and clear lensed. These are all glass lenses with the box stamped with approval for German road use, the cut off is quite crisp, and the focus is better than the old sealed beam units.

Cheers,

Ian

[nitroman]

I finally broke down and ordered two of the Cibie CSR 5.75” round H1 Low Beam lights, and also 2 of the Narva Rangepower+50 H1 bulbs. I consider the purchase my personal shot at stimulating the economy; of Belgium!

It adds up pretty fast at $111 per light plus $15.50 per bulb plus shipping, so I just couldn't stomach doubling the purchase and getting the highbeams. Sorry Belgium. As the lows stay on even when the highs are engaged you get their benefit 100% of the time, whereas I use the high beams perhaps only 5% of the time my lights are on.

[vi11ain]

Are the standard US spec headlights different to the UK ones?

After reading this thread I've been trying to find Cibie CSR lights online, but I can only really find mention of them on Daniel Sterns website..... not ideal for a UK buyer!!

I like the idea of improving the headlights without increasing the wattage of the bulbs.

Ben

[tigerdog]

Are the standard US spec headlights different to the UK ones?

From other forums here, UK light assemblies are different than US ones. Certainly the lens/reflector but I think the fitment differs as well. Sorry to say I have only seen the CSR lamps for LHD applications.