Remote central door locking wiring help needed

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Re: Remote central door locking wiring help needed

Postby Ampera » Thu 19.04.2018, 13:22

Hi Tuga2112
Thanks again for your reply, I will do more investigation.
A road trip is not out of the question but my car won't be on the road until 1st May (just when the sunshine has gone)
You mention changing the jumper inside the box, when I received the remote it only came with a very poor,tiny photo copy of the instruction which were not very clear. Is the switch obvious and is it actually inside the box?
I will let you know how I go.
Cheers
Steve
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Re: Remote central door locking wiring help needed

Postby Ampera » Thu 19.04.2018, 17:53

Hi Tuga2112
Thanks for your guidance, I checked for power as you suggested and guess what DEAD. (I used the scotch Lock connectors, I have never used them before and probably will never us them again) So I have spent part of today replacing all connections with bullet connectors and now have power across these wires.
Good news the doors lock remotely now, bad news the doors don't unlock remotely. I have tried connecting the orange/black and the white cables either way and I get the same result.
At least we now have some progress.
Anymore ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Steve
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Re: Remote central door locking wiring help needed

Postby Tuga2112 » Thu 19.04.2018, 18:20

Ampera wrote:I used the scotch Lock connectors


yes, a common mistake when starting out tinkering with electrics. ive done it too, even after being advised not to from the experts. (were you trying to avoid soldering by any chanse?)

you should see the positive side of it.
at least you have not used it in your headlight bulbs like i did 3 years ago... which was rather amusing when the car passed the MOT after failing when the mechanic was showing me the left bulb was out and suddenly it was working again.... 2 months later i was on an uneven road driving at night and the headlight flickering in sync with the road... a bit more dangerous than a remote door lock not working

i dont know how the box works internally, but this is a picture of a different universal box that i have ready to be fitted in a different car
it seems to be a common design to have a jumper to switch into a separate mode for pneumatic/air lock operation in these.

the little black thingy is the jumper. and is pretty much in the same in both designs i have purchased in the past.
try swithing the jumper position before doing any more wiring and get back to us.
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1991 elan se
1991 elan se project
91 MR2 Turbo (import) project
94 Celica GT4 (Import)
94 4Runner
98 Celica SR

too many projects. not enough sunny days :(
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Re: Remote central door locking wiring help needed

Postby Ampera » Fri 20.04.2018, 19:03

Hi again
I have found the jumper switch which I have set to pneumatic as per your article. (Is pneumatic correct?) Using fig E which is identical to my instructions using Fig F. It is a LANBO remote box.
My car is a 1990 M100.
The situation is the car currently locks using either the lock button or the unlock button.
I have checked and double checked and treble checked the connection are correctly wired and well made.
Any ideas, I am desperate.
This remote box may be going in the bin!
Steve.
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Re: Remote central door locking wiring help needed

Postby Tuga2112 » Fri 20.04.2018, 22:47

Ampera wrote:Hi again
I have found the jumper switch which I have set to pneumatic as per your article. (Is pneumatic correct?) Using fig E which is identical to my instructions using Fig F. It is a LANBO remote box.
My car is a 1990 M100.
The situation is the car currently locks using either the lock button or the unlock button.
I have checked and double checked and treble checked the connection are correctly wired and well made.
Any ideas, I am desperate.
This remote box may be going in the bin!
Steve.


Steve,

I am 90% sure your box is fine.
the behaviour you describe is the same i had at one particular stage of my instalation when i did this job 3 years ago.
the best way i can help you, is for you to post pictures of the manual that came with your box, as some minor differences in the diagram can explain the problem you see.
if you do not wish to post on a public forum, you can send me a PM with the links to them.

NOTE.
did you test the remote lock with the doors open ?
The CDL from the car will always re-trigger the locks in order to keep the car unlocked when the doors are open,
that means, if your box is installed correclty, and you tried to close the locks while the doors are open, you would get the locks to close for half a second and then open again.
this is expected (and correct) behaviour.

IMPORTANT NOTE.
PLEASE make sure you have the car keys outside of the car when testing the remote, ideally, just keep the hood down so you dont take any chanses of locking yourself out of the car.

now, continuing under the assumption your box's wiring diagram is the same as mine, and that you tested the sistem with the doors closed.
here are a few tests to do with the multimeter.

check for continuity between
Yellow and Yellow/black (there should not be continuity between those 2)
white and Orange/black (there should not be continuity between those 2)
check voltage between the folowing wires.
yellow/black -> yellow (expected 12v)
yellow/black -> black (expected 12v)
Yellow -> Red (expected 12v)

my suspicion, is that you have the same type of connection going into the Y/B and the Y wires (either both are ground or both are +12)

and one last thing i want to be 100% sure,
you have cut the Yellow/Red wire in the car. i mean completely cut, as the connection between the 2 sides of that wire should now be completed via the White and Orange/Black wires from the box.

Assuming you dont make progress with that data.
I have a few ideas to check continuity between wires in the box, which will tell me a bit more about the internal behaviour of the box.

with the box connected to +12 on the red and ground on the black.
disonnect the other 6 wires.
check for continuity between
orange and white (expect beep)
orange/black and white/black (expect beep)

now the folowing tests require the use of the remote.
check for continuity between white/black -> yellow/black (no sound)
now tell the remote to lock the doors
expect a beep in that same connection for a short period of time.

check for continuity between white -> yellow (no sound)
now tell the remote to unlock the doors
expect a beep in that same connection for a short period of time.

if all that fails, send me a pm, will exchange phone numbers and ove rhte phone hopefully we can get that working.
I wasnt planning on installing the remote lock in the blue elan until i got my DPDT relays from china, but i may end up doing it tomorow instead just to refresh my memory on all this :-D
1991 elan se
1991 elan se project
91 MR2 Turbo (import) project
94 Celica GT4 (Import)
94 4Runner
98 Celica SR

too many projects. not enough sunny days :(
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