Yet another Headgasket post

[HJ2]

Please read the explanation below first
***
Stuff needed:
* Complete head gasket set (Rockauto)
* OEM Lotus Head Gasket (Lotus)
* Clutch Cable (Lotus) (While i have access now)
* Throttle cable (Lotus) (While i have access now)
* Timing Belt (Rockauto)
* Tensioner (Rockauto)
* Waterpump & gasket (Rockauto)
* Exhaust Manifold Gasket
* Intake Manifold Gasket
* Cooling Fan Switch, lower (Rodney Dickman)
* 2 Viton O-seals for the CAS and Blind plug.
* Oil filter (as i plan to change oil after 1.000 KM or so after Headgsket replacement) (Friendly local car parts store)
* Oil (Friendly local car parts store)
* Coolant (Friendly local car parts store)

Various stuff needed:
* Engine Cleaner (Friendly local car parts store)
* Skotchbrite (Friendly local car parts store)
* Brake Cleaner (Friendly local car parts store)
* Copaslip
* Gloves, so i won't be scraping my knuckles off (Friendly local car parts store)
* Grease to seal up open oilpaths while head is off (Friendly local car parts store)
* Lint free cloth to protect and seal up open holes in the head
* Piece of cardboard or plywood with holes to keep the valves in the correct order

Tools (I) needed:
* The usual basic spanners, screwdrivers, ratches etc.
* Multi Meter
* Fine tweezers
* Fine screwdivers
* DIgital Camera and plenty of memory
* Poly-Ethylene zip bags
* Various brushes for cleaning the engine bay
* Paint for various engine and bay components
* Valve Lapping Paste
* Metal plate to improvise a tool to block the bottom pulley for removal of the pulley bolt.
* 750 mm Breaker Bar

Usefull info:
* Dave's write up: http://lotuselancentral.com/repair/pdf/ ... Change.pdf
* viewtopic.php?f=33&t=9171
* Info on the Timing Belt: viewtopic.php?f=33&t=19065&p=246492
* More Cambelt Stuff: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=15925&p=211207
* http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Botto ... ey_removal
* More Cambelt: http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf
* More Pulley Removal (Popular!) viewtopic.php?f=37&t=12307&p=192970
* And again: http://www.rupertbear.f2s.com/LOTUS_ELA ... change.htm

Things to arrange:
* A Lift to get heavy stuff out and back in
* A place to put the head on whilst work in progress
* A facility to measure head warp
* An address for head skimming if warp is out of spec
* An address for cleaning the injectors
* Borrow a Boroscope (borrowscope ) to check water and oil paths
* Something to compress the valvesprings

Order nr's:

Rockauto
A. 1 set: FEL-PRO Part # HS9685PT Complete Head Kit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=124717
B. 1 set: DAYCO Part # WP169K1A Timing Belt Kit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2455218
Lotus
A. 1 OEM Head Gasket, A100E6104S (FKM Belgium http://www.lotuscars.be/lotus/lotus.htm)
Rodney Dickman
A. 1 Low temp (210 / 200) Fan switch, http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/produc ... cts_id=281
John
A. 2 Viton O-seals for CAS and bling plug (ask Brit-Car-Nut: memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2420)
Yates and Bllomfield
A. 1 K&N Oilfilter K&N HP-1004 with 25mm hex key for very easy removal. http://myworld.ebay.nl/ybfilters


***
Dear colleagues,

I am in the process of preparing my first ever head-gasket replacement ever, and it's on the Elan of course to keep things challenging
I am reading (a lot!) of contributions on the forum and i am trying to get the complete picture here.

I will be asking a lot of questions and from time to time will summarize everything in the start post of this threat.
Hopefully in the end we'll end up with a good running Elan and a threat with all the head gasket related info that even a newbie can understand.
(Head gasket replacement for dummies)

So, Ill kick off with the first dumb question :
What is the easiest way to remove the head?

I've seen a piccie where the head comes out together with exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe with cat. Allthough heavy, this looks like the way to go (for now ) as is don't have to remove the exhaust manifold / Turbo which I did not learn to like during the porting of the wastegate. I need to know so i can order the correct gaskets needed

Some other questions that pop up for now:
1. Is it logical to replace the valve stem seals while i'm at it?
2. Is it logical to flow the inlet manifold while it's out?
3. Is it logical to sent the injectors off to clean them since the inlet manifold is off?
4. Do the injectors need to be cleaned while operating, or is a bath in a ultrasonic cleaner enough to clean them?


As Phillips say's: Let's break things better

Here's my head gasket story so far:

I bought the car (an S2) 2,5 years ago. It was completely stock when I bought it. Right from the start there was always a slight brown goo on the coolant filler cap. This did not go away after 3 coolant flushes (one with engine cleaner) But the car performed fine, no errors and no progressive build up of the goo. After 6 months a water hose snapped, resulting in an overheated engine, even though I shut the engine down before the temp gauge reached max. After cooling down i filled 3 liters of water and replaced the hose temporarily with a fuel line (it was the water hose to the turbo that snapped). Then I replaced all water hoses with Samco to prevent this from happening again. After this, the build up of goo was stil not progressive. All stable. Then the radiator started leaking (sounds familiar?) The crimp on the endcaps failed. Since this was not progressive as well, i decided to do my first trackday anyway. The car passed this test flawless and performed nominal the entire day. After this I had my radiator recored which resulted in a watertight coolant system, be it that the CU core showed a slight increase of nominal running temperature. Then my exhaust rotted away so i replaced it for a 2.25" PECO and emptied the pre-cat whilst at is. Still no changes in build up goo. All stable. After replacement, you guessed it: Boost creep! So hoping against all odds ordered an Everest Chip. This did not cure the boost creep, but gave an interesting ride f you could control your right feet. Still no changes on the cooling side of things. Then it was time to cure the boost creep so i ported the wastegate with success. The 1.5 year following there was still no change and the build up of goo did not increase. If i left the coolant level approx. 4 CM below the mark, i only would loose a few Ml of fluid every run and it went through the fillercap. A little fill up twice a year was enough to keep the engine operating flawless. Mind you: I do not always spare the engine while it's hot. But now i smell increased levels of exhaust fumes escaping through the fillercap, to a level that it is time to take my skills to the next level. I cannot see any cause for this since i did not change anything to the engine / coolant anymore. So: Let's replace the bloody gasket!

[dapinky]

I'm not saying that it is the best way to do it, but i can tell you how i have done it, and things i learned to do differently!

Firstly (not that it is in any sort of order!) i would detatch the exhaust manifold from the head, but leave the inlet intact - if you keep both manifolds on it is a very tight fit to avoid damaging the paint on the clamshell - more if lifting/replacing with hands and not so bad if you use an engine crane.
Either way, if work needs doing on the head, the manifolds will probably need to come off, and certainly it makes some things a lot easier with them out of the way.

This leads on to the next thing - personally i always replace the valve seals when the head is off (unless they were done a year or so earlier) - it gives a good oportunity to lap in the valves to maximise efficiency in the engine. You may not feel it is necessary, but i wouldn't want to have to lift the head again to sort an oil leak into the cylinders if the old ones get disturbed/deformed.

As you have removed the exhaust manifold before, i assume you are aware that the easiest way is to remove the studs from the head and not to try and lift it over them.

It is worth removing the lower pulley quite early in the procedure - it gives much better access to the 8mm allen head screws which hold the engine mounting to the engine - these are best undone with a short length of 8mm allen key and a spanner (once you've loosened them with a proper allen key!) - even easier if you have a ratchet spanner to use.

Keep a good note of where the earth straps go! - take lots of pictures for reference.

Remember to change the oil filter whilst the head is off and you have good access - but don't overtighten it - next time you wont have such good access!!!

Injectors can be changed with the engine in the car - but it is easier to do it all at the same time as removing the head. - not sure on the cleaning process - i sent mine away to be done.

Generally, the process is as per the manual, but with a few 'good ideas' thrown in.

[HJ2]

Thanks Dave!

How long did it take you to do the lot?
Yes i found out the exhaust manifold stud thing the hard way, so i remembered So i can lift out the head and the turbo stays in? Or does it have to be removed to get the head out? as well?
I planned to leave the (almost new) oil filter in situ,and leave it there to catch any debris that the process might left over. I'll then change for new oil, Filter and coolant after 1.000 KM.

Hmmmzzzz... Better RTFM first

Greetings
Henk-Jan

[bobbrown]

Due to the amount of work that is need to remove and replace the head I always take the opportunity to do as much as possible on the head while it is out on the bench.
From cleaning all the valves, ports, oil and water ways to replacing all the seals.
I usually get the head skimmed as it makes a better surface for the new head gasket to seal against, and it is not very expensive to get done.
If/when getting a head skimmed makes sure the quality of the work is up to spec as I’ve seen some very dodgy head jobs, I use a guy I know well and his work is very good, as ChrisP can testify and I think he was charged £35.00.


Bob

[dapinky]

£35 seems to be the going rate for a skim (unless you know the bloke and bung him a tenner for a drink, and don't want a receipt).

H-J, the first HG i did actually took 6 weeks, but only because i broke my foot between taking one off, and replacing it!

Generally, I would think that if you considered about 6-8 hours to remove it, 8-10 to replace it and as much time as you can spare in between for the 101 jobs that will imediately jump out as being essential that you notice as you go.......

.... it is quite likely that you will find it essential to ensure all the accessible chassis bits are returned to clean shiny grey, every smear of oil is cleaned up, most bolts replaced just to look good, lots of non-essential parts are removed, wire-brushed and painted before refitting etc etc etc.

I would allow 2 hours to remove the intake manifold, all 'extra' metal bits and clean the head.

Another hour to remove the 16 valves (more if you need to 'adapt' a spring compressor and then hunt round the garage floor for the dropped collets) - if you havent done this procedure before, it is well worth making sure you have a pair of tweezers, a couple of tiny screwdrivers and one of those small telescopic magnets (pen sized).

A piece of cardboard with 2 rows of 8 holes to keep the valves in the right order is worthwhile, unless you have the luck of the Irish or the memory of an elephant.

I also use 16 polythene bags (self-seal types, like you'd buy an ounce of skunk in ) numbered to keep the right spring, collar, collets and followers together.

With a bare head, it is the right time for a good clean and then assess the face - like Bob says, it is always a good idea to consider a skim if only to clean 20 years of pitting and corrosion off the face. Be aware that if it has been skimmed before, there may not be enough material left for a heavy skim (the specs are all in the manual).

I have a large slab of float glass which is ideal for checking heads - it is totally flat and smooth and by looking from underneath you can establish any warp or flat-spots easily - just a smear of oil on the glass and any bits which dont touch are clear as day.

Any good engine shop will have a suitable flatedge, and most will also strip the head for you if you dont wish to give it a go, or are short on time - obviously at a price - and personally i probably take longer re-lapping the valves than they do, and with greater care for equality on all seat faces.

It should take a couple of hours to re-lap all 16 valves and clean ALL traces of paste from the seats (WD-40 or petrol are my cleaners of choice for that).

Then is the time to fit the new stem seals (if you decide to do them) - just place them over the valve guide and use a suitable size drift to knock them on (a small socket on an extension bar works fine - and a light hammer)

Allow an hour or 2 to re-fit the springs (or maybe I'm just fussy with how clean i keep everything - I didn't spend that long on Paul Watkins' engine )

Another good hour to clean the whole assembly (actually it's 65 minutes - well thats what the timer on the dishwasher tells me - but i have to wait until Angie goes to work - some people have no sence of humour) Seriously, it's the best way i know to clean up a head (once the worst of the crap is cleaned off). It leaves it warm and easy to dry.

If youre not re-fitting straight away, give it a coat of light oil to stop the steel bits from rusting.

The valve lifters may need a good clean and oil change - there is a video somewhere on here of the procedure for doing it - it isn't hard, but takes a bit of time to do.

Then it's just a case of re-fitting the followers and cams.

And then replacing the whole assembly (remember to bolt the intake on before putting it in the car, it's a hell of a lot easier than reaching the bolts when its in there.)

It can be done in a weekend if you dont like too much sleep, realistically i tend to take it out one weekend, spend the evenings cleaning the engine bay and head, and put it back the next weekend - even then it can be tight on time, especially in Winter when the days are short.

Oh, and you asked about flowwing the intake ports - personally i wouldn't bother on a turbo (or other forced-induction) engine - smooth flow is much more important on an NA engine (of any type) - and a rough finish is even beneficial as it aids the turbulence which helps atomise the fuel/air mixture for an even burn.

[HJ2]

Wow!

Such useful replies, thank you all!
Looks like this post is gonna do what it's supposed to thanks to your help.

Note to self: Try not to drop the head on my foot! I'm gonna need the 6 weeks anyway I suppose, but better slow and safe than fast and sloppy! I have a lot to learn.

Now for me step 1 is to order all the materials i need.

Regards
Henk-Jan

[HJ2]

Okay, step one is to order everything i need from Rockauto.
I'll order 2 sets, so i don't want to make any mistakes. It's pricey enough as it is
I have decided to do the lot: Gasket, Timing belt and Head.

My starting point is the Isuzu Impulse RS '91. There i look for the 1.6 L4 Turbocharged engine (does the year influence anything?)
What's the difference of the Isuzu Impulse RS and the one that comes with the text NATO ? I don't see all parts under NATO si i'll assume that i don't need that one
There i found a complete head gasket set.

My questions so far:
1. I believe i cannot use the head gasket from the Isuzu one, but should order a Lotus OEM one separately, is this correct?
2. Do i need any other separate seals for the job besides the Rockauto set? (like crankshaft, camshaft e.c.) or will this set do everything?
4. Do i need valve guides?

In detail (for 1 car)
1. 1 set: FEL-PRO Part # HS9685PT Complete Head Kit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=124717
2. 1 set: DAYCO Part # WP169K1A Timing Belt Kit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2455218

[dapinky]

Hen-Jan,

This is a copy of my shopping list last Spring from Rock, just in case it's any help to you....

RockAuto.jpg

edit - probably of no use at all due to image quality!!!!

Try this one...

Untitled.jpg

[HJ2]

Thank you!

Both images are OK actually!
A quick check shows all parts are included in both sets i described

[HJ2]

Just placed my 430 Euro's ( ) order @ rockauto

[HJ2]

And just updated the first post to keep track of everything

[ovi]

Please read the explanation below first
***
Stuff needed:
* Complete head gasket set (Rockauto)
* OEM Lotus Head Gasket (Lotus)
* Clutch Cable (Lotus) (While i have access now)
* Throttle cable (Lotus) (While i have access now)
* Timing Belt (Rockauto)
* Tensioner (Rockauto)
* Waterpump & gasket (Rockauto)
* Exhaust Manifold Gasket
* Intake Manifold Gasket
* Cooling Fan Switch, lower (Rodney Dickman)
* 2 Viton O-seals for the CAS and Blind plug.
* Oil filter (as i plan to change oil after 1.000 KM or so after Headgsket replacement) (Friendly local car parts store)
* Oil (Friendly local car parts store)
* Coolant (Friendly local car parts store)

You're forgetting something on your list!

Your Belgian friend who already has replaced at least 50 head gasket!
I've already replaced water pump and distribution of my Elan so get off the head must also succeed.
Let me know when to come and I bring my son for the difficult bolts.

[HJ2]

Thanks Ivo!

But... What am i forgetting then?
Or is it 1x 'Ovi' that i'm supposed to add to the list?

[ovi]

And Jeffry!
I look forward to it!

[chrisP]

I can back up what Bob said about a skim, the first was substandard, the secound far better - thanks Bob

[HJ2]

I'll keep that in mind thanks.
I just found Dave's write up and added it to my initial post!
http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/ ... Change.pdf

[HJ2]

Hurray !
Lotus OEM Headgaskets arrived today! (50 Euro's / piece including transport)
Now I only have to wait for the Felpro Head set which is still stuck @ the Dutch customs for 4 days now...
And the we're off!

[HJ2]

Updated my initial post again..

And we're off! (Finally)
It took some while to get all the parts 'n bits needed. But to my knowledge I now have everything I need.
I spend 2 day's in constructing a rail on the ceiling of the garage where I can connect my engine hoist. I believe it is big enough to hoist the entire engine, but better safe than sorry. I do not have room for a standard hoist, but with the rail on the ceiling I can lift the head, rail it to the side and lower it on a trolley, all by myself.

So all the exhaust manifold studs are out. as are the lot of the water / oil / electric connections. I removed the rocker cover as well. Now do I need to remove the lot including downpipe and Turbo before lifting the head? Or can I just lift the head and leave the exhaust manifold in situ, since there are no bolts that are in the way?

But first it is time to undo the nut on the pulley... Wish me luck!

[ovi]

Good luck!

[HJ2]

Well, no luck with 2nd person to apply the brakes + a large breaker bar (700 mm or so)
So tomorrow try to block the pulley with a plat of metal bolted to pulley holes and lower engine strut...

Bloody hell, is this time consuming!