Need full CAS ?

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Re: Need full CAS ?

Postby wayne » Mon 27.12.2010, 12:11

Thank you for the advice gentlemen and hope U all had a good Xmas?

I pulled the cas off the other day. roll pin seems to be intact and If I hold the Outer wheel steady there is no play between this and the drive wheel.

Bearing play (ie, up and down) seems to be minimal

When installed I't possible to rotate the cas wheel about 1/4"the play I guess is between the Cas and cam drive lug. Does play is normal?


The good news is out of desperation I replaced the ECU and all fault codes seem to have gone away and car is running much better :bananasex:


Ive done a couple of Elanscans over the last few days. Any chance for a professional analysis? (ECU fuse removed and ECU reset prior to all runs)

25.12.10.zip


From what I can work out TPS was high so i've adjusted this back to 0.4V.
Also noticed strange readings on vehicle speed, gear and acceleration?? Wow 20+ MPH with the car in the garage !

This morning done another run Speed & accel signals now look normal although I still had this problem after changing ECU's and cleaning the contacts on the back of the VSS (in the speedo)
Not sure if I was looking at the correct part. Anyone know where the speed & acceleration signal comes from?

There seems to be numerous strange spikes on alot of the data. Is this a concern? Maybe due to corroded contacts as I don't think the car had run for the last year.

I still have not set the Base timing (light should be here in a couple of days).

Many thanks
Wayne
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Re: Need full CAS ?

Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 27.12.2010, 14:23

Wayne, I've had a quick look at your logs:

Interesting - although the ECU has calculated the >0.4V TPS to be zero throttle, it appears to have screwed up the idling speed as it doesn't match the target idle until after you've adjusted the TPS.

Hang on a minute though! When did you change the ECU? The first two logs are indicative of some bad connections as several independent sensors (including battery voltage!) have a step change when the thermostat opens up (purely mechanical) and the many spikes all point towards poor earthing and/or supplies.

The VSS provides the speed signal to the ECU (see the Wiki) which explains why you were doing 20MPH in the garage (acceleration, gear & power are all calculated based on the speed, so they make sense). In your post-Christmas logs, things seem a lot better (although there are a couple of spikes so it would be worth cleaning up all the earthing straps - see the Wiki) so I'm wondering if in changing the ECU, you've cleaned up some connections or whether your ECU has some bad connections; it might be worth swapping back to the old ECU to try to find out which is the more likely - BTW I'd be interested in taking a good look at the ECU if it looks like it was the problem.

It looks like you're making progress, so I'd get the base timing set and see how looks - I'm not sure about the CAS (it doesn't sound too bad) and I think that something else has been throwing up the CAS/EST errors.
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Re: Need full CAS ?

Postby wayne » Tue 28.12.2010, 01:13

Hi Geoff, Many thanks for your help.

The first scan (25th) was deffinatly on the old ECU, 2nd one not too sure. I think it was on the new ECU but had done a couple that day and not sure which one I had saved. I still had bad speed signals on new ECU untill the run on the 27th when it seemed to disapear by itself. (was quite relieved as I do not have a spare VSS.

I plan to check engine earths asap as I also noticed oil pressure gaugue fluctuating especially after engine warms up and noticed a main earth point attached to the EGR valve bracket? which I think is attached to a rubber nut and not the chassis? .

The large step change when the thermostat opens (and fans kick in) ive been putting down as a couple of factors. 1st battery is not fully charged (no green indicator on battery) When I bought the car I was told it needs replacing. (I will pick one up this week)
2nd Apparently the local "Lotus" dealer had this car somewhere in the last year and were trying to cure it cutting out at 4k rpm and overheating problem so have re-wired something to do with the fans. Both fans to come on with the thermostat switch is this normal? (the car has aircon)

I did wonder that removing the wires from the old ECU had just cleared corroded connections and have considered putting it back just to see.... but I'm scared I screw something up.... The car is now running properly for the first time in a year or 2.. Apparently the last owner had it in to numerous garages here trying to get it fixed. And when I returned to Bahrain 3 years ago the guy I sold it to told me it was off the road due to gear cables and O2 sensor problems... Although I do not think it has an O2 sensor?

After getting the car back a month ago I'm just looking forward to getting her back in a roadworthy condition and be able to go out for a drive.. after this I will try to swap the old ECU back if it is still causing problems I'll send it over to you to play with.

Ok, things to do... Clean earth points, replace battery, check timing, new scan...

If anyone can find a company that is still selling them I would still like to get hold of a new CAS assy if only for future use. (preferably without paying £200+ from Lotus).

Many thanks

Wayne
1992 Pacific Blue, Top end performance Kit. K&N airfilter& HKS BOV. Everest. HiSpec fronts, SS hoses. 2010 Canyon red Evora.
http://www.elanm100.com
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