Erm, I reckon Ken's right that your O2 sensor might be struggling - and in the first instance I'd do another EScan idling from cold for ~10 min for us to see. Your original O2 scan showed an intermittency (black) and I've overlapped my own (healthy) scan in blue:

If your next O2 scan showed 'struggles' I'd substitute your O2 sensor. I've got a spare that you can borrow - paying homage to Ken's reluctance and careful advice about buying a new one. (Perhaps a pal closer to home has one on the shelf?)
I've tested my own O2 sensor in the dim and distant past ( - and I'd be happy to test yours?)
The lhs slate/green lead is the signal lead back to the ecu and enters the rhs O2 sensor as the black lead in the pic.

The lhs brown/yellow is the heater supply. It only gives a supply when the engine is running or ticking over and the red ign light is OFF. It enters the sensor as the bottom white lead in the pic.
The slightly hidden lhs black (under the slate/green) is the heater 'return', which is an earth, and enters the sensor as another white lead on the rhs of the pic.
I'd check the two whites of the (disconnected rhs) m/plug with the resistance side of your m/meter to see if the heater supply circuit is intact. You should get a reading between ~3ohms and ~15ohms or so if the sensor isn't broken. It's a kind of 'continuity check'.
I'm struggling to remember but I seem to think I checked the supply voltage with the sensor disconnected from the multiplug. The engine should be ticking over with the red ign light OFF. I set the m/meter to read 20Vmax and probed the lhs m/plug part between the brown/yellow supply and a convenient earth - the braid at the bonnet hinge - looking for a (12V-ish) voltage to supply the O2 sensor. I think I also checked that the black sensor m/plug earth really was an earth by connecting it to the bonnet braid and looking for continuity when bolted into place - I think the turbo might provide a path to earth.
Other random thoughts:- the brown/yellow O2 heater supply 'feeds' off the red ignition supply light on the dashboard. Has this been flickering at all giving you an interrupted O2 heater feed(?) - cos this might be a cause of your O2 drop-out. I'm thinking "is the alternator rectifier providing enough 'oomph' to supply the heater current?"
I think, too, that heat from the exhaust gases can restart signals from a broken O2 heater circuit supporting/explaining Ken's open/closed intermittency?
Hmm...is all this something to pick the bones out of, I wonder? Or does it add confusion?