RC Engineering 320CC Fuel Injectors?

[Aoki Magic Pants]

Hello!

I suspect that I need new fuel injectors due to lack of power over about 4k RPM, hot starting issues, and what sounds like cylinders misfiring on hot idle. I'm running on stock turbo with an Everest chip, from what I can gather these are the correct injectors for a UK S2 turbo:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Engineering-Peak-Hold-320CC-30LB-Fuel-Injector-PL2-0320-1/382314219212?hash=item5903b406cc:g:o84AAOSwy0JaOU9X

There doesn't seem to be many options now when it comes to injectors, and the Delph injectors on eBay seem to divide opinion. Does anybody have experience with these injectors, and can I do any better for this price?

Cheers,

Phil.

[rip]

Injectors are a bit of a minefield.
Even Rock Auto show the same part for both NA & SE, but the NAs ones do not work.
Rock also show another for the SE: Intermotor FJ559. I have these & apart from a slightly lumpy idle when cold, they work ok. Nick Walker fitted them to his Elan but it did not seem to like them very much, causing lumpy idle & a very minor misfire

I replaced my injectors because 1 packed up completely, leaving the car struggling on 2 cylinders (they fire in pairs & 1 can knock its pair out) but if you are just experiencing poor running, then why not try getting yours cleaned?

[Aoki Magic Pants]

Injectors are a bit of a minefield.
Even Rock Auto show the same part for both NA & SE, but the NAs ones do not work.
Rock also show another for the SE: Intermotor FJ559. I have these & apart from a slightly lumpy idle when cold, they work ok. Nick Walker fitted them to his Elan but it did not seem to like them very much, causing lumpy idle & a very minor misfire

I replaced my injectors because 1 packed up completely, leaving the car struggling on 2 cylinders (they fire in pairs & 1 can knock its pair out) but if you are just experiencing poor running, then why not try getting yours cleaned?

Are you talking about the Intermotor FJ559, or the RC Engineering injectors here?

I did/am considering just getting them cleaned, but figured it might be best to just replace them to reduce the chance of the electric aspect of the injectors failing in the future, assuming that it's not an electrical fault that is causing this issue in the first place.

[rip]

Intermotors. I have not tried the RC Engineering ones so can't confirm if they will work or not.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I have used the GM ones listed in the US on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-BRAND ... 1438.l2649

They work fine and idle fine. $169.00 for a set of 4 (four) and $24.91 postage. Two sets left.

The Rock Auto part is "STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS" FJ559 and $106.79 each is stupid

The price for RC Engineering injectors PL2-0320 is also way too much for the injectors.

I would also suggest that you verify the waste-gate isn't frozen or hard to move as it will give similar symptoms: http://wikilec.com/view/Wastegate

[Simon_P]

I have these & apart from a slightly lumpy idle when cold, they work ok.

causing lumpy idle & a very minor misfire

Sounds like it is slightly lean, you need to reset the ECU and adjust the CO after fitting new injectors.

[lotusflasherman]

I replaced my injectors because 1 packed up completely, leaving the car struggling on 2 cylinders (they fire in pairs & 1 can knock its pair out) but if you are just experiencing poor running, then why not try getting yours cleaned?

If the injector packs up electrically it needs replacing, otherwise clean them - £50 for all 4 by Scholar in Suffolk, near me..forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24707&p=311386&hilit=+scholar#p311386, otherwise I'm sure you can find a local service for a comparable price.

[elaverick]

I've got RC PL2-320 (Bosch style top) in mine currently and they work perfectly.

Got them from https://www.fuelperformance.co.uk/

And it was £300 inc delivery and VAT for a set of 4. Be aware if you're ordering from the US you may get hit with import duty so factor that in to your price. Fuel Performance don't list them on their site but Duane did an order for them from RC directly (meaning he dealt with the import duties).

[Aoki Magic Pants]

Update:

Heeding the advice given earlier; I had a check for vacuum leaks & checked the waste gate. The waste gate seemed to wiggle fine, but the Ventilation System Vacuum Take Off pipe was loose under the wheel arch, and the Evaporation Canister hose was not connected to the non-return valve & was just dangling from the plenum. Also the Evaporation Canister hose & 2nd Throttle Vacuum Reservoir hose weren’t plugged into the correct ports on the plenum for some reason, so I swapped them back over.

However the problem still persists. The car idles fine when cold, drives smooth when under a light load, but as soon as you put your foot down there is no increase in power above about 4000rpm & the turbo feels weak & not hitting the expected boost with an Everest chip. Once up to temperature the idle seems to “pulse’ & occasionally splutter, causing me to blip the throttle to prevent it from stalling. I checked the spark plugs which are about a year old, but they were fine & there was no change to the idle when disconnecting them one by one.

I’m guessing that checking the base timing might be the route to go down before looking at injectors?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

From far left field: What exhaust are you running? Any chance it is internally damaged and not allowing proper flow?

The fact it can only run up to a low RPM and also does odd things, a clogged muffler or CAT could be the issue. A crushed or kinked exhaust pipe could also create the symptoms.

[Aoki Magic Pants]

From far left field: What exhaust are you running? Any chance it is internally damaged and not allowing proper flow?

The fact it can only run up to a low RPM and also does odd things, a clogged muffler or CAT could be the issue. A crushed or kinked exhaust pipe could also create the symptoms.

Thank you for the reply.

It's got a Piper RS 2.25" exhaust which is probably about 7-8 years old, and has seen about 25k miles. I would like to think that it would still be in good working order, but I haven't checked. Is there an easy way to check this?

I should add that it has recently had it's head gasket & belts replaced, but the lack in performance was present before the work was done, & I was hoping that it might cure it. The hot start/idle issue only started after the head gasket/belt work was done.

[tigerdog]

Left field suggestion is a good one. Smaug had a similar issue a few years back. No boost, no performance as expected. Problem was traced to a fractured catalyst insert; if you listened carefully, you could hear a slight, ringing rattle from the exhaust. Once replaced, all was good.

[Aoki Magic Pants]

** Update**

After searching through this forum looking for a solution; it occurred to me that setting the base timing seemed to fix a lot of the issues that people had, and was probably a good place to start before forking out cash on parts that may, or may not fix my problems. Guess what? Yes the Timing was well out! Now that it's been set back to 16 degrees the car has returned to its former lively self, doesn't try to stall at junctions, and I'm getting full boost again! The difference is unreal, the car was limp & soulless to drive and has been transformed back into the car that I fell in love with.

For the record I just got a cheap S8000 AccuSpark timing light from eBay, and it worked fine MSD coils.

[steve matthews]