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lol yes I did it exactly the same waylotusflasherman wrote:My technique is to put a socket on the nut so I can get a good grip by hand but I cheat and use finger and 'opposable thumb'
The slots were almost perfectly aligned when the nuts stopped rotating when tightening with my fingers so I didn't go any further.then I re-tighten by hand but how tight I go depends on where the next alignment of hole & slot for the split pin will be.
The effort wouldn't be huge indeed as 25N.m is rather low, but as far I remember the wheel still spun more or less freely with the nut tightened at 25N.m (although I am not 100% sure here, I will have to check again)I'd recommend you to see if you can get the nut round to the next split pin alignment position without too much effort and see what that feels like.
Giniw wrote:Thank you very muchlol yes I did it exactly the same waylotusflasherman wrote:My technique is to put a socket on the nut so I can get a good grip by hand but I cheat and use finger and 'opposable thumb'The slots were almost perfectly aligned when the nuts stopped rotating when tightening with my fingers so I didn't go any further.then I re-tighten by hand but how tight I go depends on where the next alignment of hole & slot for the split pin will be.The effort wouldn't be huge indeed as 25N.m is rather low, but as far I remember the wheel still spun more or less freely with the nut tightened at 25N.m (although I am not 100% sure here, I will have to check again)I'd recommend you to see if you can get the nut round to the next split pin alignment position without too much effort and see what that feels like.
FYI, when the bearing nuts were tightened to 25N.m I couldn't feel any play at all.
Are your bearings any different from stock since I understand you have after-markets hubs?
lotusflasherman wrote:Lotus went for the castellated nut and split pin holes that means you need to make a judgement of which hole and slot to go for... even when you follow the manual.
lotusflasherman wrote:Generally, for wheel bearings the ideal operating setting at operating temperature is near- zero to slight preload to maximize bearing life. Most bearings are set cold with slight end float but that's only between .001" and .007" so significant wheel wobble should not be present. This end float setting results in the bearing being as close as possible to the desired near-zero/slight preload setting when the unit reaches its usual operating temperature. If the bearing still has significant end play when at operating temperature it will shorten its life because it allows internal impacts that eventually cause the hardened surfaces to fail. Equally, if it always runs below expected operating temperature with end play it will have a shortened life.
Simon_P wrote:lotusflasherman wrote:Lotus went for the castellated nut and split pin holes that means you need to make a judgement of which hole and slot to go for... even when you follow the manual.
If you follow the manual you do not need to make a judgement - It is explicit... but then it reflects the combined knowledge of Lotus, GM, and SKF (or whoever supplied the bearings) followed-up with extensive endurance testing. They want you to have that much play.
Diff pinions and wheel bearings are completely different applications, that is like comparing petrol and diesel and saying they are both engines.lotusflasherman wrote:Generally, for wheel bearings the ideal operating setting at operating temperature is near- zero to slight preload to maximize bearing life. Most bearings are set cold with slight end float but that's only between .001" and .007" so significant wheel wobble should not be present. This end float setting results in the bearing being as close as possible to the desired near-zero/slight preload setting when the unit reaches its usual operating temperature. If the bearing still has significant end play when at operating temperature it will shorten its life because it allows internal impacts that eventually cause the hardened surfaces to fail. Equally, if it always runs below expected operating temperature with end play it will have a shortened life.
I read that too, but you have confused axial play which you are setting, and the lateral play that you can feel on the outside diameter of the wheel.
lotusflasherman wrote:but no end float, and certainly no lateral play.
lotusflasherman wrote:and the MOT man won’t like it either.
Good, you agree that they are completely different applications - Tighten your wheel bearing as tight as a diff pinion and you will do about 3 miles before it gives up.lotusflasherman wrote:... so same bearing, different application, significantly different pre-load - that's the point I was making about preload they can take.
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