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by cellaway » Mon 30.10.2017, 14:28
Hi All
I've just bought an Easy Bleed Kit for the obvious reason. The supplied cap doesn't quite fit and the fluid gets forced out over the reservoir by the air pressure. The correct cap for the M100 from S & J ( A100J6077H ) is no longer available. Any suggestions ?
Chris
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by Giniw » Mon 30.10.2017, 14:52
Hello,
Is it that kind of bleeder?
https://cdn.frooition.com/080026/images ... ibleed.jpgIf yes, mine looks identical and works, you should try another cap and/or seal.
It's better to just try with the bleed screw still closed and with air only before you put any DOT 4 in it: if it leaks you won't end up with DOT 4 in the engine bay.
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by John_W » Mon 30.10.2017, 17:04
That’s the one I use and it works fine. Are you sure you’re not using too high a pressure?
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by HJ2 » Mon 30.10.2017, 17:36
I have this and had the same problem. The seal was oval somehow but after using one from another cap it worked.
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by cellaway » Mon 30.10.2017, 19:04
The pressure could be a tadge high. I used one of the wheels off the car. Perhaps I should have reduced pressure on the spare, Good tip about no fluid next time. I did try another seal.
According to one of the posts on the forum the cap isn't quite right but if they are no longer available the ideal solution will be difficult. The M100 is a Fed Spec . Does anyone know if the master cylinder is the same spec as the UK ones, apart from the left hand drive bit.
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by Giniw » Mon 30.10.2017, 19:53
The spare is supposed to be inflated at >4 bars so yes it's definitely way too much. If I remember correctly the bleeder shoulnd't be pressurized at more than 1.4 bars!
The cap from the bleeder does fit once you select the proper one. I too picked the wrong one first, it did fit but not as well as the second one. And you should keep an eye on the seal indeed.
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by cellaway » Mon 30.10.2017, 20:26
I fitted both the caps and one fitted much better so that was the one I used. It appeared to tighten Ok so maybe it is the pressure. I can't remember this problem when I bled the brakes on Cooper S that I had, and should have kept.
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by John_W » Mon 30.10.2017, 21:16
Instructions are available at
http://www.gunson.co.uk//items/PDF/Prod ... ons_GB.pdf.
It states that “It is recommended that no more than 20 psi is used for bleeding (10psi for older systems)”. I use the spare from a trailer and reduce its pressure to 15psi. If you just connected it to a tyre at 30 psi or the spare at 60 psi the fluid would blow past the seals.
John
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by Fredjohn » Mon 30.10.2017, 23:21
John_W wrote:Instructions are available at
http://www.gunson.co.uk//items/PDF/Prod ... ons_GB.pdf.
It states that “It is recommended that no more than 20 psi is used for bleeding (10psi for older systems)”. I use the spare from a trailer and reduce its pressure to 15psi. If you just connected it to a tyre at 30 psi or the spare at 60 psi the fluid would blow past the seals.
John
Never had a leakage problem with M100, using pressure between 15-20psi.
Did have a seal leak when fitting a new BMC onto the old S4, but used the old seal off the old BMC and it worked
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by rip » Tue 31.10.2017, 12:22
How do you get this to fit?
I took 1 look at how well tucked away my reservoir is & decided that I couldn't get near it with this. I even have to use a turkey baster to top it up.
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by Giniw » Tue 31.10.2017, 15:59
Really? Well if you can screw the original cap you should be able to screw the bleeder cap?
As for the bottle I don't really remember where I put it but it was probably near the water reservoir or something like that?
Anyway, even if one should be able to bleed his brakes alone with this, I always prefer to have a helping hand... err head who keeps his eyes peeled on the bottle and engine bay in case anything goes wrong
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by simonbuk » Tue 31.10.2017, 16:19
I bought the cheapest one out of Halfords recently, it worked brilliantly !! Just a bottle, plastic tube and a small valve thing - job done !!
Simon - Black S2.
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by rip » Wed 01.11.2017, 21:36
Giniw wrote:Really? Well if you can screw the original cap you should be able to screw the bleeder cap?
No because the original cap is virtually flat & the bleeder cap has hoses exiting at right angles. The windscreen is too close to give the hoses sufficient room to bend.
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by Giniw » Thu 02.11.2017, 18:05
Strange, I didn't have any problems?! (maybe it's different on a LHD?)
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by John_W » Thu 02.11.2017, 20:35
I’ve used it a few times on the Elan and didn’t have any trouble either. I’ll dig it out tomorrow and have a look to see what might be the problem.
John
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by cellaway » Sat 04.11.2017, 12:07
I did wonder if my fed spec was different to the European cars. Imperial v metric. It's a '91 and if my memory serves me right, car engineering was sometimes caught between the 2 sizes
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by John_W » Sat 04.11.2017, 13:58
Rip,
Attached are three photos of my master cylinder and the eezibleed cap and tube. I didn't even bother to take it out the bag, as there's obviously plenty room to screw the eezibleed cap onto the master cylinder reservoir and I couldn't be bothered cleaning the film of brake fluid off everything. There's a clear 2 inches above the fitted cap, and it's only slightly recessed into the scuttle.
My car's a 1991 SE with the original master cylinder and reservoir.
John
P.S. No turkey baster needed except to remove fluid when fitting new pads. I top up using a small funnel and the bottle of brake fluid.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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by MPx » Sun 05.11.2017, 00:05
I've used my Easibleed on the Elan - but not as easily as others have reported. I found it very awkward to get the master cap off and the easibleed cap on the res as the poor access made it very difficult to get a tight enough grip with just my hand to be able to twist it enough. Maybe I'm unusually feeble! I found that some gentle additional torque with a monkey wrench loosened/tightened it sufficiently and I was able to work around the car very well. I was using the nearest tyre and it would have been pressured to 29lb when I started. However, even with that pressure...and no leaks at the master cylinder end...I still didn't manage to clear all of the air from the system on the first two goes despite the fluid apparently running clear (test drives between). I suspect that there was some air trapped in the proportioning valves that was difficult to shift, but I cant really be certain where it was.
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by muley » Sun 21.11.2021, 19:51
A long time ago I had challenges with the 'eezibleed' I may have had too much pressure in the spare wheel. In short, I couldn't get a good seal on the master cylinder. Cue : brake fluid sprayed all over the shop
Anyway, I stumbled on this cheap and cheerful brake bleeding solution ~ and it works like a charm!
https://youtu.be/zvyjS91DWWU
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by roy666 » Thu 02.12.2021, 17:05
Hi - I've been using the same system and its been working really well for me. However, I just can't seem to get the brake pedal hard enough, the travel is well down to the floor. I've bled the brakes (all of them) for quite a few times, no bubbles at all..and I'm going through brake fluid a lot (on my 3rd litre!). While test driving the car she does stop but the travel is far more than i use to have and very spongy. Both rear calipers have been refurbished... would that have caused something?I've got no leaks anywhere, I'm not losing fluid in the reservoir. Would there be something wrong with the servo?... cheers mike
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