remote boot release

[Rob P]

Hi John,
I use Photobucket to upload pictures, dead easy but obviously means you need an account with them, sorry can't help other than that

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Basically, host the pictures on the Internet. A host like picassa or other share area will work but I use a domain I own. Remember to make the pictures public if using a personal account on a share area.

Then, get the full path to the picture and imbed it inside the [img]...[/img] tags on LEC.

If you want me to host them for you under the North American Registry domain, just send them to me and I will fix it up for you.

Rob: I think you can make the pictures PUBLIC by either making the folder public or making each picture public.

[Fredjohn]

Getting there! You can upload attachments via post a reply, but there ia a file size max. Just taken some more shots but with phone but they are still too big!!

Ones now visible are from earlier posts in this thread.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

That takes up disk space at LEC. If you host them and use the [img] feature you can put them up at full size.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

one thing that does still confuse me is that even when opening currently with the key the Boot lid needs physically lifting, should it not be spring loaded? this would be required to ensure it lifts immediately the switch release is operated or is there a need to fit some spring mechanism as well, or is my car short of some standard spring loading of the existing Boot hinges?

Rob: you should have a pair of torsion springs running between the boot hinges. They should be strong enough to relieve the weight of the bootlid but if it has been repaired or anything added to it like an underside carpet or trim, then it will be too heavy. The bootlid also might be binding along the opening - gently lift the lid from closed and see if you feel any rubbing. Realign it if you feel it is touching. IS the rubber seal sticky and holding the lid down?

That exhausts my suggestions.

[Rob P]

Rob: you should have a pair of torsion springs running between the boot hinges. They should be strong enough to relieve the weight of the bootlid but if it has been repaired or anything added to it like an underside carpet or trim, then it will be too heavy. The bootlid also might be binding along the opening - gently lift the lid from closed and see if you feel any rubbing. Realign it if you feel it is touching. IS the rubber seal sticky and holding the lid down?

That exhausts my suggestions.

Cheers John C,
Will check this out this weekend when I have a look at the fitting process for the release, that's depending upon me getting a pass out from Decorating from "She who must be obeyed"

[Fredjohn]

OK guys images all there but a bit small and fuzzy. Managed with phone images cropped to size. Rob: will email decent set if you PM your address.

Guess I ought to sort out a domain......

Finally defeated the technology

[Rob P]

John PM sent

[Fredjohn]

John PM sent

email sent!!

[Rob P]

Well I have finally got around to completing this modification, thought I would share the pictures as I completed this slightly different to some of the other option seen on this thread.

[GeoffSmith]

I guess yours doesn't have wiring to the a/c switch position Rob - Mine does and I guess you haven't seen this?

[Rob P]

Hi Geoff, there is a connector for the air conditioning which I don't have in my car, I haven't seen that video before though. Am I correct in thinking that you can take the feed from the position where the A/C relay would normally fit? If so then I will adapt what I have installed to accept that connection as that will then be switched via the ignition I assume.

Thanks for the info

[GeoffSmith]

Correct. I've added some explaination to the video....

If you don't have air conditioning, then fitting a switch in the a/c switch position allows you to pick up a convenient switched IGN supply (and ground) from the Blower Fan Slow Relay (position N inder the binnacle) pins 1 and 2.

http://wikilec.9600.org/images/e/ee/MJ2 ... Relays.gif
http://wikilec.9600.org/images/6/63/MJ2 ... ioning.gif

[lotustonybassplayer]

hi has anyone got any pics of how you actually attached the solenoid cable/rod onto the fuel flap release lock it self or how you did it thanks in advance tony

[Fredjohn]

hi has anyone got any pics of how you actually attached the solenoid cable/rod onto the fuel flap release lock it self or how you did it thanks in advance tony

Tony
I don't think I took a picture because the mechanism is well hidden inside the boot lid and I didn't think to whilst bits were off. However, if I remember correctly there is a hole in the latch through which you can thread the cable. There needs to be a bullet on the end of the cable bigger than the hole. I used bicycle cable readily available from any Halfrauds or bike shop.

Some put the solenoid on the lid itself: I located mine on the boot-light bracket and ran the cable round through the internals of the lid mouldings.

Hope this helps

John

[dapinky]

Tony,

As well as Johns helpful bit on how to mount the boot lid solenoid, I'll try and answer the question you actually asked (Sory John, no offence!)...

.... I took no pictures, and I canibalised the fibreglass a bit (but it worked) - basically, where the catch for the filler flap is mounted, there is a void behind it - there was a spare 'hole' in the lever mechanism, to which i attached a short length of bent stiff wire (coat hanger isn't rigid enough, but that sort of thing)....

...this connected straight to the solenoid which i mounted partially in the boot area (from where it is secured) by cutting through the bulkhead (anly a couple of square inches hole).

It can't be seen due to the carpet anyway.

I'm sure that there is a method involving bike brake cables, but at the time, conventional wisdom said 'don't do it' (okay, I made that bit up - I never thought of it, and no-one else had previously done it )

The actual catch doesn't need to move a lot to release it, so a bit of play in the wire link and/or cable shouldn't be a problem at all.

[Fredjohn]

No offense (can we have spell check on here please!!) taken Dave: I always put fuel in my boot

SO to answer the question again! I used a slim bike cable (gear cable not brake cable). There is a small piece of plastic through which the existing cable release goes: again a cable bullet retains the cable. I very carefully drilled a small hole (2mm drill) parallel to the existing hole in this piece of plastic. Then threaded the new bike cable through till the bullet sat in place. So both new and original cable when pulled operate the release.
The cable is then attached to a solenoid mounted on the angled steel chassis bracket just above fuel tank. You need to remove all the trim under the hood storage area to access this. I think the outer cable is attached at the solenoid end, but free at other end, I can't recall.

To be honest this solution was originally used by an LECer from over the pond (?) and is somewhere on here.

Works a treat and so much better than stretching across your female passenger to open the door and pull the lever. (or is it????!!!!!)

[lotustonybassplayer]

thanks for replies guys

[Don.Hasi]

Well I have finally got around to completing this modification, thought I would share the pictures as I completed this slightly different to some of the other option seen on this thread.

I guess, you cut the wire and then reclamp it? Where did you get the clamp for the wire from, please?

[Rob P]

Well I have finally got around to completing this modification, thought I would share the pictures as I completed this slightly different to some of the other option seen on this thread.

I guess, you cut the wire and then reclamp it? Where did you get the clamp for the wire from, please?

Hi Don, Yes that was the case, I used something similar to this to clamp the wires, you just need to make sure the wire is tight when clamping to ensure the pull operation to open the boot is sufficient.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-3mm-Steel ... SwxN5WZ0bO