Lotus Elan Central

by **mark** » Sat 15.10.2005, 18:15

Ashaman, I tried to load in the file you sent me, but couldn't do it. It must be a version issue, as the E6GMX can't even see the file to load it in.

by **Sy V** » Sun 16.10.2005, 07:23

Isn't the earlier one unix and the 'X' windows-based?

by **delta** » Sun 16.10.2005, 09:05

Mark.
If you are using the latest HalwinX 1.26, it can be uploaded by choosing "load E6GM" direct under "File" in the menu.

How are things going, are you ready to turn the key. :?:

I'm not starting anything untill I have my Wideband installed. :!:

by **Ashaman** » Thu 20.10.2005, 01:08

Dave, the Mustang type would be ideal. I have checked and found there are a few in Chicago...I will have to call and see what they charge.

Thanks for the tip, my original plan was to do road tuning to get it close, then check/adjust/fine tune on a dyno. There are some situations (like really high speeds) that just aren't practical for road tuning.

Overall though, road tuning is slow going because you have to drive, check logs, adjust, repeat. It would be nice to do it with this method; but road tuning is definitely not impossible or dangerous.

by **delta** » Tue 15.11.2005, 22:07

Ok guys, tuning is on it's way, and it's now idling smoothly and takes full throttle without stalling or running to rich.

Next step is test and mapping on the road, and hereafter on a dyno to finetune timing.

I will make a write-up when finished, but can tell you all that it's not that hard if you can read and understand the manual.( It's in English ;-)

)

Just be SURE that you have the pin-out right, and pay attension to the basic setup.

More to come soon...................

by **delta** » Sun 20.11.2005, 10:49

Car is on the road, runs well on neutral throttle, but hesitate a little on full. Still runs to rich, but I don't dare to lean it out, as i have a boost of 1,3 bar and no knock sensor.

And no knocksensor is a problem. :!:

The easy'st way to destroy the engine is to run lean, next in line is knock, epsecially on high boost.

As the Haltech has capasity to run 2 maps and can flip between the 2 by grounding a wire, I will try to get a signal from the stock knocksensor to trick this, and then let the map2 be retarded 10deg. This should do the trick. :-)

Don't you all think I'm very clever.?.

Actually, it's not my idea but a suggestion I have seen on the Haltech forum. :oops:

Well, need to see if it can be done at all. :!:

by **john** » Mon 21.11.2005, 22:41

Are you using a wideband?

by **delta** » Mon 21.11.2005, 23:23

john wrote:Are you using a wideband?

Yes, Innovate Motorsports LC-1

by **Ashaman** » Tue 22.11.2005, 01:19

If you have a good tune, why would you have detonation? When tuning you should allow enough of a "buffer" to compensate for those hill-climbing events

It is useful to have something to detect it during the process though, either an electronic listening device or a "knock-box" like the MSD unit.

by **delta** » Tue 22.11.2005, 13:40

Ashaman wrote:If you have a good tune, why would you have detonation?

High octane petrol not allways availeble. Better to have a automatic system to help out here. :!:

by **Ashaman** » Tue 22.11.2005, 22:27

Egad....running regular?? In that case I would just turn off my boost controller and/or drive it like a grandma. Most turbo engines sound like marbles in a tin can on regular, knock senor in place or not. Maybe pulling a lot of timing WOULD take care of it though.

I am no expert on octanes & such, but that sounds scary even on a stock engine, let alone a modified engine...

by **Nige** » Wed 23.11.2005, 17:28

Not sure about your side of the water but 95 RON (Octane) is standard in UK and the rest of Europe, premium is 97 RON but as Delta says that isn't available in all places. One large supermarket chain in the UK is now selling fuel claimed to be 99 RON but again availabilty is very limited. A stock Elan engine has no problem on 95 and I don't seem to have a problem with my everest chipped S2 on 95 either. However, I do use 97 whenever possible, not because I put much faith in any of the more outlandish claims from the fuel companies about how it makes you drive like Schumacher or something but the increased knock resistance when running above stock boost seems sensible.

by **Monty** » Wed 23.11.2005, 19:24

i was skeptical of the use of optimax etc, but caught 5th gear the other week and they dyno tested 3 cars using standard unleaded, ultima and optimax, in a normal every day car it didn`t make much differance but optimax came out best on the the subaru Impreza it gain IIRC about 20 bhp and the same with torque. :shock:

Nige which superstore does the 99 ron?

by **Monty** » Wed 23.11.2005, 19:38

Must be Tesco

http://www.tescocorporate.com/page.aspx?pointerid=6CAE6067F10C4171B40512BC9F0454E8

by **Houdini** » Wed 01.03.2006, 00:38

Need to bump start this again.

A little confused but not too much. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

1) Move wire from A2 to C2

2) Move wire from C15 to D16

3) Move wire from B4 to D10 and D3 (Grounds)

4) Current wires at C2 and D3 can be eliminated (Cut and terminated)

5) Current A4 connection (sec throttle control solonoid) can be not connected or use device like Ashman used. Is this correct or do I need to connect this to something?

Are there any other misc connections tricks I need to know about? The tuner will be using a wideband, and works with Haltech's all the time so it shouldn't be a problem.

by **Ashaman** » Mon 06.03.2006, 23:05

Yeah, I am not sure what happened to the installs....

At any rate, its pretty much that simple. I didn't cut/eliminate either of those, I reloacted one (for A/C) and grounded the other (don't know if it was necessary, just figured I would play it safe...no need to introduce the fun variable of a flaky ground into the mix).

I don't know why you wouldn't want to control the secondaries. Word is leaving them open causes low end power losses; I would tend to believe it since they system took some doing to develop I imagine...I don't think they would have gone through all the trouble if it wasn't noticeable. But yes, some isuzu people have been known to just leave them open or remove them altogether.

If you have a good tuner, it should be a cakewalk. Pretty much any "issue" I ran across was a result of it being my first time working with a Haltech or standalone in general.

by **Houdini** » Tue 07.03.2006, 03:14

I talked with the tuner today and he said he can control the sec throttles with the Haltech. I'll find out more when I take it in.

by **Houdini** » Thu 30.03.2006, 21:25

I found reference to Casper Electronics on the Isuzu forum and gave them a call. They can make up a harness that will go from the stock Elan wiring harness to the Haltech. That way both ECU's can be installed and it's a simple matter of taking out the adapter harness and plugging into the stock ecu for our California smog checks. Price is estimated at $125-$150 to make it up. I need to get them the schematic of how I want the wires routed and the harness length and I'm set to go. Going to try and do this by the weekend if I can. If this works maybe a few others will be interested. I like the idea because I don't have to touch the stock harness and everything is reversable.

by **Guest** » Fri 31.03.2006, 18:41

Like that? I guess it isn't a huge amount of money, but you can pick up both connectors at a junk yard and make your own without much trouble (an evening project), really...

But yeah, I like the idea of leaving the harness stock also!

by **Houdini** » Sat 01.04.2006, 23:53

I was thinking of leaving the stock ECU exactly where it is and mounting the Haltech on the other side of the car (behind the glove box somewhere) which would require about a 4 ft long harness. It would be easier to access the data plug for the computer then. ANy thoughts on if this is a bad idea? I ECU chalenged so this is all new to me.

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Installing Haltech E6GMX

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