GT2560R Upgrade

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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby MattDon » Mon 25.05.2009, 21:04

not sure who your asking but i went for the gt2560 in the end, i was sorely tempted by the smaller turbo but was talked out of it.
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Thu 04.06.2009, 17:01

MattDon wrote:not sure who your asking but i went for the gt2560 in the end, i was sorely tempted by the smaller turbo but was talked out of it.

you'll appreciate it after 5k rpm :twisted:

and not even think about the spool under 3k
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby bratboy_y2k » Sun 07.06.2009, 00:34

did anybody get the 2554? i'd like to hear some thoughts on it becasue im really not looking for super peaky power. any thoughts?
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Sun 07.06.2009, 07:47

bratboy_y2k wrote:did anybody get the 2554? i'd like to hear some thoughts on it becasue im really not looking for super peaky power. any thoughts?

check out the Group Buy thread by LGM and Ekapol, i think there was a list of who purchased what. i was a little surprised to see you post, been a while eh?
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby bratboy_y2k » Tue 16.06.2009, 18:19

im still around and kicking, but a new business sure eats up a lot of your time
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Wed 01.07.2009, 01:44

well i have been up and running for about a week now, boost starts to build at just about 2k, love it! pulls nice and im only running the lower wastegate actuator pressure of like 8psi. should scream once i get back from colorado and i turn it up to 14psi.
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby dapinky » Sat 11.07.2009, 19:10

Sort of technical question, but not so much a problem, as \I've bodged up a repair with duct tape and cable ties..... :roll: ..........

On a serious note, Paul W turned up at the southern car park on Isle Of Man, having been following me when the car suddenly got very loud and started to pop and backfire....

The downpipe had come away from the turbo, but the threads in the turbo body were fine, so it appears that they had vibrated loose and dropped out.......

.....a hunt through the spares in the boot located a few M8 nuts, and a couple of short bolts - a quick trip to the local hardware shop got us a half dozen M8 HT bolts, 60mm long - a blunt hacksaw blade got 3 down to the right length before becoming useless, and the final 2 were adapted by the use of a nut, hence acting as a piece of studding not a bolt (just for now!).

They will be replaced with stainless when we get home, but a quick question - should there be spring washers on there, or stud lock on the threads??????

At the mo, i've stuck it together with spring washers and instant gasket (which will have burned off by now!), but what will it need for a final solution (in addition to, presumably, a gasket!).

Due to the lack of clearance for standard hex bolts, I'm expecting to use A4 grade stainless cap head screws with a 6mm socket head (or thereabouts), with sproing or shakeproof washers - does this sound right? or just 8mm threaded bar with flange nuts????
Dave

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go on - click this link - you know you want to!
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Mon 13.07.2009, 00:31

i'm not sure what LGM supplied with the downpipe. i have studs with copper nuts, not lock washers. not enough room :p

on a comparative note, during our meet here in Colorado Springs, CO we upgraded the RS to our isuzone site admin with a black hole T4 hyrid. we ran a few passes against each other and pound for pound of boost, he couldn't keep up. it was close, but that GT CHRA is amazing coupled with higher compression.

his car:
Blackhole T4 (T4 using machined Isuzu turbine housing)
2.5 exhaust
FMIC
11psi (so far)
8.5:1 compression

my car:
GT2560R
2.0" exhaust (soon to be 2.5")
FMIC
13psi
9.4:1 compression
water/methanol injection (off during pulls)

we actually did some low-end pull with pulls at 30mph in 3rd, 40mph in 4th and 50mph in 5th. withing a few seconds i was a full car length ahead. by the time i made full boost i was 3-4 car lengths ahead.

i have to say, i love this thing. might have to save for a HALTECH and up the boost to 20psi. :wink:
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upping the boost

Postby tigerdog » Mon 13.07.2009, 01:41

do it! even if you only peg the needle once in a blue moon, 16 PSI is truly addictive. In addition to the Haltech, I've put a few ElanScan runs on this thread in hopes that Alan may get enough info to consider a special mountain chip for the GT2560 / 3 Bar / 550cc crowd.
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Re: upping the boost

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Mon 20.07.2009, 22:17

tigerdog wrote:do it! even if you only peg the needle once in a blue moon, 16 PSI is truly addictive. In addition to the Haltech, I've put a few ElanScan runs on this thread in hopes that Alan may get enough info to consider a special mountain chip for the GT2560 / 3 Bar / 550cc crowd.

i will envy you all if he does :twisted:

looking at the GT2560R map, it caps out at 2bar, assuming you have the displacement. so for now i just need to see about leaning it out a little with compromising the timing. so i think no SAFCII. if i go haltec, it will be more like 20psi. that's a while down the road, found out the 2nd of July...i'm gonna be a DADDY!!!
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Re: upping the boost

Postby Nige » Mon 20.07.2009, 22:31

CRAMBURY RS wrote:found out the 2nd of July...i'm gonna be a DADDY!!!



Congratulations CRAMBURY, :banana: .
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby tigerdog » Tue 21.07.2009, 00:06

Congratulations!!!!!
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby CRAMBURY RS » Sat 25.07.2009, 08:34

yeah, after nearly 8 years of marriage i guess i had it coming :P

on upgrade note, not sure how many are going 550cc injectors, but even at 2100ft above sea level i am pig rich under 13psi. at the 6200ft i was as rich as 10.1:1 A/F. i'll be getting exhaust done in the next week or two, hooking up the wide band again and probably turning down the fuel pressure to see if i can lean it a little. i am shooting for a 13-13.5:1 A/F. that should add a few ponies :wink:
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby tigerdog » Sat 25.07.2009, 20:13

CRAMBURY RS wrote:even at 2100ft above sea level i am pig rich under 13psi. at the 6200ft i was as rich as 10.1:1 A/F.

I just did a couple of runs at boosts up to 10PSI here at sea level. I'll double-check the AFR and see what I find. Do you think the reduced fuel pressure will have a negative effect on the injectors' ability to atomize the fuel (inadequate "spray")? I haven't researched the subject.
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby Monty » Sun 01.11.2009, 00:40

How are you guys postioning the 90 degree elbow on the coolant hose going to the rear of the turbo?

I was thinking of looping the hose ie opposite way to the return pipe so it give more room to get things like the turbo discharge/outlet pipe and also help getting the rubber oil return hose. :?


and how the hell did you guys tighten up that rear banjo bolt up :twisted:
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Last edited by Monty on Wed 25.11.2009, 16:15, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby RichardK » Sun 01.11.2009, 07:37

For completeness for those that come after - I used a short ( 13cm Long) ring spanner that I ground down to remove about 1mm of the depth of the ring on one side inorder to fit in the gap between the stud (which I should have cut down but now couldn't) and the banjo bolt head....and a little shaved off outside edge....

This problem took me two nights of faffing around before I figured it out.....the frustration!!!
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby Monty » Wed 25.11.2009, 15:36

Here`s some Photo`s which will hopfully help those are going to do the same upgrade

1st thing 1st,

You need to have the 4 ARP studs for the Adaptor plate to Manifold cut down to 32mm ( i had an engineering place do this)
You need Copper Xs Hi Temp RTV Silicone Instant Gasket to seal the adaptor plate to manifold as there`s no gasket for this. (got mine from ebay)
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I fitted the other gaskets dry
The metal Oil return pipe from the stock turbo needs to be reused but 1st the bolt holes need Enlongating to fit the Garrett Turbo
Also the Rubber Oil Return hose needs replacing as the stock one will be to short.

You`ll also need to remove the PAS belt and remove the PAS pump and push to oneside to get to one of the Manifold studs;
Remove the complete Dipstick and bracket amd also the Engine lift bracket
You can remove the old turbo still attached to the Manifold but to do this the Maniflold studs need to completely removed, i used a 1/4" spanner to crack the open and then used a small socket (if there`s room)

Once you get to this stage
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Then you can fit the Adaptor plate to manifold
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Next step is to fit the turbo to the manifold using the gasket. Note the cut down bolts and now can get a 10mm rachet spanner to 3 of them and the other i used a standard spanner
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at this point you can fit the outlet adaptor pipe that sits under the turbo, i did also try fitting the oil return pipe and the rear inlet cooling line but it`s not possible to fit in one go so had to remove them again :twisted:

Test fit, Note the position of the bolts for the downpipe
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Next i left the manifold detatched to help with attaching the rear water line, but i had to grind down a 19mm ring spanner to get to the bahjo bolt (see photo) once the banjo bolt is tightned up then you can slip in the manifold gasket and bolt down the manifold. At this point i would get under the car and fit the metal oil return pipe as it`s a bit tight in there, once done you can reattach the wastegate arm.
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Note the routing of the water line from underneath, you can also see the metal oil return pipe and Maries discharge pipe that goes to the intercooler
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Next, attach the oil adaptor to the top of the turbo using PTFE tape, then attach the oil line (hand tight) route the line down and fit to the banjo to the oil feed on the block, once happy with the routing tighten the top oil connection. Note in the picture the new longer rubber oil return pipe
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The Final water line can be fitted (the one with the 90 degree elbow)
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Note the routing and you can also see the Discharge pipe to intercooler.
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Then it`s just a case of fitting the other bit`s ie downpipe, replace PAS pump and belt, dip stick, pipe to the airbox etc quite straight forward.
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Huge thanks to
Marie
Ekapol
Richard K
and CRAMBURY

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Last edited by Monty on Wed 25.11.2009, 22:03, edited 5 times in total.
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby Dico » Wed 25.11.2009, 15:54

Great right up Monts :clap:
4+ hours stuck in a damp bucket seat with a mad Irishman at the wheel - Deep joy!!!!
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby Monty » Wed 25.11.2009, 16:27

3 Bar MAP Sensor and RC PL8 550 injectors are also now fitted to Dico`s Blue beast
Imfo here viewtopic.php?f=44&t=15997
Write up here http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Fuel_injectors

Next step will be going to stock chip but closed loop for the O2 sensor and then an Electronic Boost Controller
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Re: GT2560R Upgrade

Postby tigerdog » Wed 25.11.2009, 17:30

EBC would be fun but I think you'd have more fun if you could get your car on a rolling road with Alan/ESM present. From what we've seen with others, the stock chip overfuels most of the time with 550cc injectors. I can also confirm the overfueling, since my car barely passes California emissions testing and has fuel economy significantly lower than what others report. Plus, the finer control of onset of boost afforded by Alan's chips should make driving the beast easier.

I'd buy one, too, if Alan had such a chip available. Heck, I'd take my car to Alan except I'd get really damp driving it there. :wink:
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