IAC Valve

[chrisP]

Hi here are the pictures or the inside, there are four very fine wire that will break easily..... I think the best way to approach adjusting the angle of the connector (assuming you get the pins out smoothly, I'm going to look at tapping them and using a tiny screw to pull them out) Is to spray a small amount of silicon spray to lubricate the big o-ring and then twist the plastic top connector to the desired angle without pulling it off the metal housing. You will see that there is a key and key way that links the plastic connector to the inner workings.

I hope someone can learn from my mistakes

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For the intake removal - I found this very helpful for some of the awkward bolts - wera-zyklop-1-4-drive-bit-ratchet-set-38-pieces (always good to have an excuse to buy tools)

[Tuga2112]

from the pictures, looks like the side of the motor was glued to the plastic housing while the top (where the connection goes) is not removable because the pins are soldered ?

i will probably take mine apart before trying to do the same with new one. HOWEVER

do any of you uys know which voltage the valve works ?

[chrisP]

There is no glue involved in securing the insides, the blob of sealant holds a piece of plastic film that prevents any electrical contact from the wires to the metal body.
You could remove the whole internal mechanism by pushing from the bottom (the metal valve end) the whole lot should pop out of the top, just be aware that the four wires are beyond fragile.

Update: SJ's have no more stock
Chris

[Tuga2112]

maybe its possible to remove it from the housing and reuse the housing of the original one in order to ensure the connector direction stays ?

[chrisP]

That might be possible, but I would say drilling the holes is more straightforward. I have done mine and re attached to the manifold..... now to reconnect everything and fire it up - will report back
Chris

[Tuga2112]

That might be possible, but I would say drilling the holes is more straightforward. I have done mine and re attached to the manifold..... now to reconnect everything and fire it up - will report back
Chris

like you, i ended up modifying the holes in the IAC

i have a picture somewhere and will be editing this later,

one hole (the one closer to the timing belt) was enlarged using a dremmel cutting disk, i transformed the hole into a slot and directed the slot in a manner to match the hole in the engine. and then added a washer to the new (stainless steel hex head) bolt
the other hole i just used a step drill and enlarged it by 2 or 3mm (cannot remember ) and again, used a washer with the new bolt.

certainly i prefer to spend 10 quid on a part and then modify it like this than spending the 40...

its a shame because i would have prefered to give SJs or PMN some of my cash in the hope they would invest it in expanding their range of m100 parts. but drilling a hole and making a couple of cuts on the other aint worth the difference in price

in fact, looking at pmn stock, they have expanded a lot on the m100 front unlike SJ...

[chrisP]

How did you get on with the rebuild? I noticed that when I started mine up it jumped to 3000rpm - I guess the ECU needs to calibrate against the new IAC valve. So I re started the car in diagnostic mode for a few minutes to reset everything and now it seems ok - just and FYI
Chris

[Tuga2112]

How did you get on with the rebuild? I noticed that when I started mine up it jumped to 3000rpm - I guess the ECU needs to calibrate against the new IAC valve. So I re started the car in diagnostic mode for a few minutes to reset everything and now it seems ok - just and FYI
Chris

honestly i couldnt tell. part of the investigation to figure out why the car didnt run well included changing the timing and the CO pot blindly .. when i finally found the issue was the new fuel pump working itself loose, the car didnt run smooth, so it took me an afternoon or 2 with help from Pinky over the phone to get it back up running fine.... (the co pot was way too far out in one direction) in the end it was so well tuned that the oil pressure increased to the point of bursting out the pipe... the story is on another thread, but you get the picture..

i think for the 10 quid and minimal effort to modify the IAC valve i will stick to the other GM versions instead of buying the Elan specific one and previously mentioned.