madbilly wrote:So, I got the ball joint apart but now I'm stuck with the CV joint, it won't come off the driveshaft. I've tried a mallet and hammering a brass drift on the inner bearing race but it won't budge. I've put a vice round the driveshaft on the engine side of the strut to brace against and stop the driveshaft coming out of the gearbox, and used a screwdriver to raise the shaft so the CV joint is clear of the lower ball-joint. I haven't tried the lever-method from wikiLEC yet because I haven't quite worked out what to lever against, and I'm a bit nervous of pulling the driveshaft out of the gearbox, although in the absence of any other ideas I will try this before I resort to removing the driveshaft from the car.
Not sure what you're trying to achieve here - I've never needed to seperate the outer balljoint - the new one will stretch over the whole thing for fitting (inner balljoint is easy - just undo the metal clips and it'll slide out, and can then be seperated by removing the circlip on the end of the shaft.)
madbilly wrote:For the nuts and bolts is there anything specific I need to look for or is it sufficient to follow the part description (e.g. M8 x 70 bolt for no.20)?
As long as you use 8.8 spec High Tensile (or ~80 rating if using A4 Stainless) it is okay for most parts -
but the #20 & #24 need to be higher spec bolts (10.9 grade) madbilly wrote:What does the description "thin" mean for bolt 9? To me it looked the same as bolt 10.
It refers only to the depth of the head that the spanner goes on - I used normal ones but the theory is that a thinner one will give more clearance between the static part and the rotating part.
madbilly wrote:Any reason to buy new castor adjustment shims if the others look like they'll be fine after a clean up?
old ones can be reused without any problems
madbilly wrote:Is the bolt with a cam for camber adjustment still available or is the only option to replace with shims?
No idea - I already had the later plate adjustment system, so only needed the correct plates
madbilly wrote:How is kayloc different from nyloc?
Kaylock are a higher specification part - all metal construction, but slightly oval in shape to grip the threaded part of the bolt - they should only be used once then replaced on reassembly.
madbilly wrote:Any idea what I should spec for mail-order of the lower ball-joint boot, or are they that common I should be able to walk into any auto-factors and they'll be able to give me a replacement?
They are a common part - I got mine from ebay...... as long as the 3 dimensions are the same as OE part (or close enough!) it will do the job - small diameter, large diameter & height.
madbilly wrote:Any reason I shouldn't put copper-slip on the nuts, bolts and drive-shaft huib-splines to stop them seizing again (no that the driveshaft did, in fact it was the easiest part of the job so far!)?
if you use it, keep it off the threads and only put it on the plain area of the bolts (to keep torque settings accurate).
madbilly wrote:Any solvent that I should NOT use to clean the CV joint before refitting? The manual says don't use petrol and wikiLEC says use paraffin; I have an "ecofriendly white spirit substitute" I've used for cleaning paint brushes, could that cause any problems?
I have used all sorts in the past, but as you are just cleaning grotty grase away, I'd use paraffin (or diesel, or white spirit).