Removing Wheel hub nut. Advice needed.

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Re: Removing Wheel hub nut. Advice needed.

Postby lotusflasherman » Mon 21.08.2017, 00:33

Tuga2112 wrote:
lotusflasherman wrote:That''s why I wrote 'intense heat' on the nut John ... if the driveshaft gets hot there won't any differential expansion so it will be a waste of time. Bearings get pretty hot in service and they won't get anywhere near that. Had a geo' check at Hanger111 and they used a neat little induction heater on the trackrod locknut that I couldn't shift.


Phill,
I have no doubt you have the best intentions with your advice.

And i don't mean to come across in a negative or condescending way, if i do, please blame it on the language barrier.

Just keep in mind that I have a more laymen understanding of your wording, as well as a limited "DIY grade" set of tools at hand to achieve results you refer too. In my case, there is also the fact English not being my native language.

in this scenario. luckily, i am aware butane torches are "not very hot" when it comes to this kind of thing, however, if i had a propane torch in my toolbox i would very likely give it a go.

my current understanding of the heat solution is that it would not be possible to use that trick unless i had some special workshop equipment. so, i will be looking into the idea of using the breaker bar + an impact socket and a copper hammer.

if that fails. i will probably make another trip to machine mart to buy a "proffecional" grade air (or electric) impact driver as from my understanding those will have 400-500nm force to break the nut loose. not to mention they can speed up the process of taking wheels out.


Neither butane or propane are 'very hot ' so not suitable.. from memory* Butane is nearly 1500°C, Propane just under 2000°C, MAPP gas is just over 2000°c but when combined with oxygen it's almost 3000°C so not far off Oxy-acetylene temp. (* Those are rounded figures I remember - you can look up what they actually are on Wikipedia.)

I have a small Oxy -MAPP 'hobby kit' quite handy for small welding, brazing and heating (much older version of this Oxy-Mapp-Welding-Kit- & a larger BOC Oxy-acetylene kit and I use a refillable cylinder with MAPP that I top up from the big BOC Oxygen bottle as it's much cheaper.

I have a 24V rechargeable impact driver that claims a torque of 240 ft lbs but the batteries are a bit old and don't think it gets anywhere near that now, if it ever did..
My breaker bar is 2ft (0.6m) but I have some steel tubes to lengthen it as required and that usually does the job.

If you have a 1.2m breaker bar I think you just need a 'positive mental attitude' - think like the karate guy about to smash a brick with just a hand, just think "This IS coming undone" and give it a really big sharp heave with a kiai - the shout they make to coordinate their effort - even the tennis players use it now just to hit a ball.

Another option to consider is splitting the nut with a nut splitter but I'm sure you'll shift it if you put your mind to it..
Phil

Leave me alone, I think I know what I'm doing.
Cars: Subaru Forester 2.5XTN, Eclat Riviera, brace of Pacific Blue SE's, Collapso SE, Elan+2S.... and now an Evora
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Re: Removing Wheel hub nut. Advice needed.

Postby Tuga2112 » Sat 26.08.2017, 15:41

the nut came out this morning.

after putting the car back on the ground. i put pressure into the breaker bar (i would see it bending a good 5 degrees) and hit the impact socket with the copper hammer.
no luck.

but i think it helped, i then used the old impact driver to hammer the nut a bit more for 15 minutes. and went back to the breaker bar, which finally got the nut loose.
all in all, 2 hours after starting the task, the car was back on axle stands and hub nuts out.

so, now... its the harder part of the task, which i will be asking for help with in another post in about 10 minutes...
Still learning
Youtube Channel @Tuga2112 M100 repair videos
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Re: Removing Wheel hub nut. Advice needed.

Postby Simon_P » Sat 26.08.2017, 22:55

Use an extension on the socket and rest it on an axle stand. That will keep the socket square so that you can concentrate your effort rather than keeping everything lined up.

I don't like to use the engine and gearbox to stop things rotating - too expensive. Use the brakes they are much cheaper and far more effective.

The shaft of the CV joint is hardened and tempered so heat isn't a great idea.

Put on some easing fluid, load up the breaker bar and give the socket end a good hard whack with a hammer.
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