Angie's new car......

[Tuga2112]

theres a lot of tools i would like to purchase. but must be done under the condition they pay for themselfs overtime.

I have purchased a 3d printer months ago and not had the time to make it work yet. part of the plan is to get it working and start printing parts that will eventually pay off for the investment.

a metal lathe is unfortunately a whole different beast.
the price and space needed for such tool makes it a very dificult one to justify considering how rarely anyone needs something done with it to justify the ££££'s invested,

then there's also the fact anything you do with such tool will be used in "high risk" situations. which leads to the whole running a business and insurance in the background etc. id be willing to use it for my own purposes. but fabricating something and then selling is just too much of a liability making the investment extremely difficult to justify.

[Rambo]

@Dapinky....I still have a brand new "Crooked Jeemy" rear hub conversion from way back when if it would be useful for research purposes to anyone. It's currently in my LEC "group buy" museum

[dapinky]

Mark - are you coming down to Castle Combe this year? If so, I'd like to see one in the flesh and compare it to the Bobbin Rastard one....... (say what you will, Jeemy is no businessman, Bob is a simple tealeaf, BUT I know which one I'd trust to do the engineering properly).

[RonR]

Dave,

Before you get going on the lathe, I have something to tell....

1. There's a ready made rear hub available which MIGHT be suitable, from a Daewoo Lanos. I have one I've been playing with, and so far:
a. The Lotus bearings fit it, and it mounts on the stub axle
b. The Wheel Nuts fit
c. Astra Disks fit onto it
d. The Disk and Hub securing screw holes are slightly different, but a new hole can be drilled and tapped in the hub without problem

I've not checked the offset for centring the brake calipers yet, or if the inner seal fits, but it looks promising, at least.
I hope to get around to those checks in the next week or so.

[dapinky]

Ron,

That would be a pretty good find if it pans out (not helping me though, as I've just bought a pair of rear hubs!).

PM sent (or at least, I am off to write one now.....)

[Rambo]

Mark - are you coming down to Castle Combe this year? If so, I'd like to see one in the flesh and compare it to the Bobbin Rastard one....... (say what you will, Jeemy is no businessman, Bob is a simple tealeaf, BUT I know which one I'd trust to do the engineering properly).

I should be there and, if so, will pack it amongst the beer and whisky bottles

[chrism]

Sounds like you've been doing some more 'delving into stuff', RonR.

That'll be a brilliant alternative if the offset matches; I suppose we could live without the disc retaining screw - tho' the original could be blanked off and a new one drilled if the offset matches?

[RonR]

Chris,
No need to blank off the screw hole, just drill another on the opposite side of the hub to line up with the hole in the disk and Robert's your Mother's Brother!

Edit: Many thanks to Dave for sending me the drawing of the old group buy hub.

I've measured the Daewoo hub against the drawing and it looks like this is a go-er.
Surprisingly I found my inner seals in the spares pile quite quickly, and can confirm that they fit, as well as the dust caps.
I now need to put one on the car to check the clearances and whether the calipers will centre correctly on the Astra disks.

[chrism]

A quick look on eBay and this rear hub has GM applications as well as Daewoo. Looks very similar to 'yours', too.

Seems to be mostly Opely/Kadetty applications - and certainly being sold from that part of the world.

Wow, your research seems to be ticking lots of boxes RonR and your trial fit will be fascinating.

(Take a 'high five' for going to the trouble of yet another mission creep - but won't it be a real turn-up for the books if both caliper and disk align correctly?)

[lotusflasherman]

While the topic is on hubs .. this may be useful. It's pretty old so pre-Jeemy, probably the drawing that Bob Brown's hubs were made to.. Could it be added to the Wiki?

[chrism]

...just a thought RonR...before whipping off caliper hub'ndisk and disturbing your rear brake etc would it be an idea to have dapinky's musuem piece in hand for a visual check and measurement comparison? Perhaps have the luxury of adding a disk and offering them up visually?

These Kadett hubs have some similar dimensions; are they worth considering, too, I wonder?

[dapinky]

Phil, it is certainly the BB drawing - 'cos it's the one I sent to Ron

It was always said that "we" shouldn't be making it available publicly, as someone may wish to take on the manufacture of the hubs........ but now that it appears that the Daewoo/Opel part may be either a direct fit, or at least, a great base for minor work to fit our cars, then I am not going to be too precious over it.

[chrism]

So...I rang up my local motor factor armed with a GM code from eBay that crossed with Daewoo Lanos 1.3/1.5/Opel/Vauxhall etc and (GM OE 90 157724) came up with a FEBI 03106 part which was on a shelf fairly locally - and he's getting it in tomorrow.

I don't really know what to measure but I've got some (front) brake disks on the shelf to offer up to see if they fit - and I can see if it'll take a tapered bearing, measure the thickness etc.

It'll likely be the same as RonR's Daewoo part so if his is found to be an ideal replacement then these'll be available a lot closer to home...

Any thoughts re measurement? (check 34mm and no. of sprocket teeth I s'pose...)

[KenS]

Hi Chris, The hubs need to be rears, not the fronts which will have splines for a drive shaft.

[chrism]

Ah...embarrassing. Back to the drawing board then.
Thanks KenS. I missed that

Still trying tho'...I've found a rear hub outlet in this country:-

(And I have a couple of screenshots from German outlets delivering free.)

[dapinky]

Oi! - get yer own bloody thread! (only joking).....

..... however, to keep things sensible I will split the posts about rear hubs into a separate thread so that all the useful information can be referenced in a suitable place under the right topic heading.

For the moment, keep using this one, and I'll split it some time over the next few days - this is more of a friendly heads-up in case you wonder where it's all gone.

[chrism]

aw sorry... it sort of got sloshed over from your excellent 'stupid prices' thread...

[Tuga2112]

John

I saw on FB that you and Neil had met up.... good effort!

Okay then, here's the extent of the work required in the sills....

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I think even you could have coped with the "devastation" I found - Passenger side just needs a clean, brush on some rust killer and squirt of Waxoyl - drivers side could do with a thin strip cutting off the bottom and a new bit welding in - I shall do it, but it would survive without - just a good clean, prep and treat/paint (with a new bead of Pu Adhesive).....

..... all 4 jacking points pretty perfect (the bolts all came out easily for a squirt of waxoyl inside the closed box).

I have to say, as "project" cars go, this one is far better than many we see out on the roads - but it will all get a good going-over before it gets handed over to the good lady (otherwise I'll only have to do it anyway at an inconvenient time).

are you thinking of doing anything about the line of rust at the base of the drivers side jacking point ?

[dapinky]

are you thinking of doing anything about the line of rust at the base of the drivers side jacking point ?

Well, nowt more than I've now done! - it isn't (wasn't) bad enough to require any surgery, and a good look around with the borescope thingy showed nothing upsetting round the other side, or from inside (all 4 of the allen-headed bolts came out easily allowing access to have a good look and then a good liberal squirt of Waxoyl - and now replaced with stainless ones just for the hell of it).

I got a long screwdriver and chisel in there to remove the visible rust and it didn't seem to have perforated anything, so I brushed on some phosphoric acid and then squirted a load of Waxoyl into the sills to protect everything from the inside, and then sprayed a coating on the outer faces (well, outer of the sills, but inner of the car).

Todays job is to fit the closed-cell underlay and stick it in - carpets won't be replaced yet, as they need a darn good clean and to dry out fully...... not an ideal job for January!

Then I shall be moving on to the engine (waterpump, belts etc) - may as well confirm that it is good at an early stage, as if it has to come out, then it will be a good time to do other things whilst it's out - but if it doesn't have to, then happy days.... I had been spraying some releasing fluid on the O2 sensor blanking plug for 5 days, and it came out quite easily using 'just' a long tommy bar, no need for an impact wrench or scaffold bar extension. Threads all cleaned up and plug temporarily replaced until I get a sensor and go closed-loop.

All of my suspension parts have now arrived (except for shocks and springs), so stripping and rebuilding the corners, with the brakes, will be after the engine.

[JonLake]

I am delighted that it's gone to a good home, and that it will return to the road.

I am also pleased that you felt that I'd 'dealt fair and straight' - that was always my intention.

Why not just use the second roof I supplied - I think the rear window on that is fine?