Black S.E. Re-Shell & Chassis Continued...

[Mike Y]

I am starting work again on JUFs Jimbobs unfinished concourse Elan.

The car came with just a bare painted windscreen frame. Has anyone got any photos of the route and how the drainage tubes are fitted down the A pillars. Any info/photos etc would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Mike

[John_W]

The routing of the pipe looks a bit Heath Robinson. There’s a drawing on page 73 of the 1991 Section BK Addendum to the Service Notes on “water ingress”. See http://ret0027h.eresmas.net/bk073.htm .

My car has never had the tube, and I don’t think it’s worth fitting it, as the better solution is to prevent water getting onto the header rail in the first place by eliminating any gaps.

John

[Mike Y]

Thanks for the info I am starting back into finishing the car. I rolled it out the garage yesterday and took the cover off. WOW I still am amazed at Jamie's attention to detail.
so much so I am having a plaque made and fitted to the car to honour his memory and total OCD attention to detail. Its really hard to try and keep everything up to his quality standards, but I will try.

[Mike Y]

Well work has commenced again on JUFs this week I re assembled the door mirrors that have been sitting painted and wrapped up for a couple of years and fitted them to the car. New weather strips fitted to the doors and locks fitted. All the internal door glass parts have been cleaned re-greased new butterfly Clips fitted and all door brushes re-glued/replaced and door glasses refitted.
I am gradually working my way forward.

Next job is fitting the new A post seal carriers and new A post seals. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

All the front end is still to build up front clam is resting in place as is the bonnet. I've started fitting the Headlamps back in the pods and ordering sundry parts, its amazing how little parts add up to so much
I will start to post photos to show progress this weekend for anyone who may be interested.

Cheers Mike

[Mike Y]

Ok I will try post some current photos showing the attention to detail Jamie lavished on JUFs & where I am up to in my endeavor to finish the car.
.
Jamie was certainly rebuilding the car back to better than factory spec please see the closed thread Black S.E. Reshell & Chassis.

Just having a few problems getting the right size photos I think I will try again tomorrow.

[Mike Y]

IMG_4932 resize.jpg (24.5 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

[Mike Y]

New but old Cambelt

IMG_5185esize.jpg (28.99 KiB) Viewed 30241 times

I took the decision to get the engine running before fitting the clam and front panels to improve access. I keep refering back to Jamie's thread to work out where he had got up to with rebuilding JUFs. I noted he had run the engine after refitting it to the car and had replaced the cambelt but that was such a long time ago so I figured best to change now before commencing any further with the build. After much knuckle scraping I fitted the new belt. Jamie had clearly fitted a new water pump and idler bearing etc when he had replaced the cambelt. Engine start this weekend wish me luck

I have removed the headlamps from their mountings stripped the paint from the holder rings where and mounting plates and am presently repainting them building up multi layers of matt/silk paint to protect them for the future as the original paint and protection was extremely thin. I've also ordered new stainless steel M4 screws to remount the headlamps once completed. Photos to follow

I have a new centre grill for the bumper from SJ Sports Cars and ordered stainless 19g mesh to match the original spec and re create the two outer bumper grills to match the centre grill which I will also paint matt/silk black to match the centre grill. Photos to follow

[Mike Y]

I decided to fit the A pillar carriers and seals today
What a job! I have new carriers and A pillar seals "Lotus" seals not the black sponge copies that are n the market!!!

I had to drill the A posts and tap them. Then space the seal carriers away from the A post along with adjusting the door glass angle and up stop to make a good contact with the new seal on numerous dry runs I will silka flex them in place tomorrow. Mega patience required to get it right photos in a mo

[Mike Y]

Stainless Steel M4 x 12 Bolts

some photos including the New M4 x 12 Stainless Steel bolts

[NewLogik]

IMG_5250 resize.jpg

some photos including the New M4 x 12 Stainless Steel bolts

Mike, is the M4 x 12 a direct replacement from OEM/original size or it's because you had to drill and tap them ?

Thank you,

[Mike Y]

Original size. The windscreen frame was a virgin part with only pilot holes drilled. The whole tub was also brand New Lotus surplus stock Jamie bought from Dico I think if my memory serves me correctly.

I thought I would improve on the original screws by using Stainless Steel which i am doing where possible in the build.

[Mike Y]

Ok I spent some time reassembling the head lamps back in their mountings using stainless steel screws where possible to replace the originals and mounted them back in the pods. All screws were coated in Copper slip and I was lubricated with a bottle of Stella

[Mike Y]

I tried starting the engine over the weekend

Having made a number of checks everything seemed good to go.

I put fresh fuel in and turned the engine over on the starter with the plugs out several times.

Replaced the plugs and attempted starting. The engine turns over with no sign of life I will have to look into this further this coming weekend. The fuel pump primes and everything seems ready to go. However I did notice no smell or sign of fuel when the engine was turning over with the plugs removed. Lets hope its something simple

[Rambo]

Mike - did you check that the inertia switch (by the battery on an SE) wasn't in the off position ?

Or, if its been sat for a long period, maybe the engine requires more cranking to get the fuel through ?

[Mike Y]

I haven't checked the inertia switch I will Thanks.

The pump primes and stops as though it has supplied fuel to pressurise the fuel rail. A friend of mine has just had to remove the plenum to get his injectors out and cleaned after his car had been standing for 7 years.

JUFs was last run 9>10 years ago by Jamie

I did try to start it at Jamie's in 2015 but it just kept coughing and nearly starting I had put it down to old fuel. Now it doesn't even cough. I wil do a detailed check this weekend.

[dapinky]

Mike,

Here's my favourite 'top tip' for a situation like yours (it took me a fortnight of telephone callls and forum messages to eventually speak to the man who gave me this information.......)

Open the bonet (Or not, as it probably isn't refitted at this point!).

Turn on ignition key - hear the pump whir and stop (that means the inertia switch is 'open' and the fuel pressure valve is operational - other wise nowt would hapen, or the pump would continue)

Fuel is now in the fuel rail at the correct pressure for operation...... so it isn't getting any further (perhaps).......

Now operate the throttle lever by hand - full deflection from closed to open - you *should* hear each injector click in turn as they get a "are we ready to go yet?" signal from the ECU and test themselves by energising and de-energising - it is the ball bearing inside the valve bit which makes the clicking sound as it moves to open the injector.

If all 4 click, then they are working (at least - the electrical side of them, but maybe blocked pysically, I suppose) - if only 2 work, then it is a problem on the feed signal circuit, if 1 or 3 work it is a problem with the individual wiring for that injector (or a faulty injector).....

.....if none work, try tapping them with a small spanner and try again - it is most likely to be a stuck injector which will free itself off.

If they still don't click, you will need to diagnose the ECU signal.......... but that's another subject for later, if required

[Mike Y]

Dave

I will deffo try that test over the weekend

Thanks

[Mike Y]

Work update:-
The A pillar seals are now Sikaflex in place. Door windows adjusted to obtain a good seal and all internal door inspection covers refitted with new plastic panel rivets. Inner door panels refitted.
The B post covers refitted newly covered in red carpet and the stowage lid seal fitted. Speaker boxes fitted awaiting speakers and plain grills arriving. I am still looking for Door panel Red carpets.
I've started refitting parts to the clam shell. Headlamp pod actuator pivots, Bonnet hinges, bonnet catch, some of the Nylon P clips and black plastic wiring T slide holders.
Photos to follow

[Mike Y]

Mike,

Here's my favourite 'top tip' for a situation like yours (it took me a fortnight of telephone callls and forum messages to eventually speak to the man who gave me this information.......)

Open the bonet (Or not, as it probably isn't refitted at this point!).

Turn on ignition key - hear the pump whir and stop (that means the inertia switch is 'open' and the fuel pressure valve is operational - other wise nowt would hapen, or the pump would continue)

Fuel is now in the fuel rail at the correct pressure for operation...... so it isn't getting any further (perhaps).......

Now operate the throttle lever by hand - full deflection from closed to open - you *should* hear each injector click in turn as they get a "are we ready to go yet?" signal from the ECU and test themselves by energising and de-energising - it is the ball bearing inside the valve bit which makes the clicking sound as it moves to open the injector.
If all 4 click, then they are working (at least - the electrical side of them, but maybe blocked pysically, I suppose) - if only 2 work, then it is a problem on the feed signal circuit, if 1 or 3 work it is a problem with the individual wiring for that injector (or a faulty injector).....

.....if none work, try tapping them with a small spanner and try again - it is most likely to be a stuck injector which will free itself off.

If they still don't click, you will need to diagnose the ECU signal.......... but that's another subject for later, if required

That was great info thanks Dave
I tapped the injectors and with the ignition on I could hear 2 clicking I thought so I tried starting the engine. It fired straight up but sounded like it was on 2 and a half cylinders. so I switched off and tapped the injectors again WOW fired straight up on all four sounded tappety until warm. Now its spot on thanks Dave Ive got video but not sure how to host it on a forum.

But thanks again

[dapinky]

Glad to have helped....

.... it's a really really simple diagnostic, but it doesn't appear in any of the Lotus publications. Maybe it is specific to these cars, maybe it is generic to all/many injectors of the day - but I hadn't ever come across it until i had problems.

After trying (and failing) to sort it out for 4 days I eventually spoke to Gerald on the telephone (GST Services) and he told me about it.... after that it took me about a minute to have the car up and running (and then another hour to 'properly' sort out the connection plug/socket which was the actual issue).