JPS M100

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Postby Paul.P » Tue 22.05.2007, 20:55

Gary wrote:We told you that, it was because of there where 2 fat bastards in it.


Fat, yes !, bastards, ?, i know Russells a useless bugger sometimes, but he ain't a bastard !
JPS M100 was built from bare chassis up to create one off M100 in the mould of JPS Team Lotus
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Postby Gary » Tue 22.05.2007, 21:13

Was gonna say you should ask you ex-missus ?

but then since you and him look like twins he must be yours !
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Postby Paul.P » Tue 11.09.2007, 20:46

Cars been in at GST last couple of days, & i asked him to check it out performance wise. To cut long story short, he found the dumpvalve ( Bailey DV30 ), was dumping the boost to early, not allowing the car to hit full boost, & believes this to be because either the internal spring can't handle the extra boost, or because it has weekend. I would be interested to here from you guys with everest chip & DV30, to see if anybody else has hsd same problem, or am i just unlucky ?, also anyone know if the DV30 can have internals replaced, or is it a case of full replacement ?
Good news is, she's back on song now :!:
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Postby John_W » Tue 11.09.2007, 21:06

Paul,
I have the Everest and DV30. It's withstood dyno runs and chip testing for the last 3 or 4 years with no problems, as proved by ElanScan.

Sounds like you got a rogue valve. Glad the problem's been traced.

John
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Postby Monty » Tue 11.09.2007, 22:40

Paul,

How does he know it`s dumping to early? the best way to tell is to do a dyno with and without or take her for a run then remove the DV and use a blanking plug and do another run to see if u can feel any difference.
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Postby nitroman » Tue 11.09.2007, 23:48

This was posted by a guy in Atlanta. I would ask "Can't you just buy a new spring?"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1901827 wrote:Ditch the Bailey and get the TT 710N
Dear All 1.8T Owners,
Yesterday I had my car chipped by J3 Motorsport in Buford GA. The guys were really nice and they checked out my car before the chip and they said loose the Bailey diverter. They said that they have known several people who have blown their turbo with this specific diverter valve I had installed. They also highly recommended the 225 TT (710N). At first I was like OK they are trying to get me to buy a different one (up sell). I didn't believe them, but after the chip job I noticed that the Bailey couldn't hold the pressure at all. Surge, hesitation, and pulsing alerted me that something was drastically wrong. The power after the flash was incredible, but it would drop out with any, and I mean any, hesitation in the throttle (dump the charge) and put my face in the windshield . Unfortunately they were closing when I left so I couldn't call them. I called them this morning and they said "so do you believe us now????

This afternoon I went by Jim Ellis and bought a TT 225 (710N) diverter valve and installed it. My GLI is smooth right through red line and normal driving now. The SOB only cost $43 compared to the $120.00 I spent on the Bailey. Live and learn I guess. Just passing on some leasons learned to all the newbies (i.e. myself) and others. Hope this helps.

Here is a merchant selling what the dude above is referring to: http://www.autotech.com/prod_engine_fuelrl.htm
Bypass/Diverter Valve $39.95
The bypass/diverter valve for 1.8T motors is intended to recirculate pressurized intake air when the throttle body is closed to prevent the turbo compressor from stalling. The latest "710N" valve, as it is commonly known, helps reduce surging that may occur when modifying your 1.8T's engine. The 710N valve has a 14.4 lb. spring internally rather than an 8.8 lb. spring found in the earlier Golf, Jetta & New Beetle 1.8T motors as well as in all B5 Passat & Audi A4 1.8T applications.

This is the latest version made by Bosch and is used on 2002> transverse 1.8T models. If you own a pre-2002 Golf, Jetta, Beetle 1.8T or any model year B5 Passat or Audi A4 1.8T, consider upgrading to this factory installed remedy.
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Postby Paul.P » Wed 12.09.2007, 07:06

Monty wrote:Paul,

How does he know it's dumping to early? the best way to tell is to do a dyno with and without or take her for a run then remove the DV and use a blanking plug and do another run to see if u can feel any difference.


Could of done with this info 6mnths ago Monty, when i asked for help sorting the loss of power out, could of saved me some spondoolies :cry:
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Postby DeeAitch » Wed 12.09.2007, 10:05

Interesting that they claim the latest Bosch valve is uprated. I tried one - (bought from an Audi dealer ) last year and it blew off at around 0.6 Bar. just when you didn't want it to :evil:
Anyone know the relative VW / Audi part numbers - might be tempted to give it another go before I finally decide to sell the custom pipe I had made!
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Postby GavT » Thu 13.09.2007, 00:13

Paul,

Just wanted to say congrats on the car. It looks absolutely fabulous.

I joined the forum today and while looking around I found this thread. Read all 24 pages in one sitting, what a great read.

Even my wife, who knows nothing about Lotus, or any other car for that matter, commented on how good it looks.

WELL DONE !!!

Cheers Gavin
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Postby Paul.P » Thu 13.09.2007, 06:58

Thanks Gav, it was ( & still is ! ) a lot of hard work, but i think its worth it :lol:
I have discussed the dumpvalve issue now with Gerald at GST & Pat Thomas at Kelvedon. Both of them do not think we need one in our cars, even with the everest chips, in fact Gerald was telling me how he had to send a blown one to turbo technics ( off esprit ), & they said it was the dumpvalve that had caused the failure. Now i AIN'T technical , but turbo technics said something about dumpvalve allowing it to spin on one side, but it couldn't keep spinning on exhaust side, so the spindle wore out very premature. So ive decided to remove mine. If the turbo fails, then i'll know who to blame :D
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Postby Paul.P » Thu 13.12.2007, 15:15

Ive had a few bits Cermakromed at Camcoat ( www.camcoat.com ), to stop the onset of corrosion. In particular the big water pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold, a new one from Lotus is approx £250 now, so the £170 that this little lot cost , was good in that respect. Anyway if anybody's interested in having any done the bloke to speak to is Barry 01925 445003. I found these people to be very helpful, i sent them the bits for a quotation, which THEY rang & gave me, they said it would take approx 2 wks, which it did, they then rang me when they were done, i paid, & they arrived 2 days later, all in all very satifactory & efficient !. This is the same/similar to the US jet hot coating.
Attachments
Camcoat bits.JPG
Camcoat bits.JPG (31.28 KiB) Viewed 5757 times
Camcoat water pipe.JPG
Camcoat water pipe.JPG (32.05 KiB) Viewed 5758 times
Camcoat heatshields.JPG
Camcoat heatshields.JPG (30.86 KiB) Viewed 5756 times
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Postby Gary » Thu 13.12.2007, 15:34

Didn't they do gold :-D
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Postby Paul.P » Thu 13.12.2007, 17:18

Gary wrote:Didn't they do gold :-D


Why is there always one :?

Serious comments only in the technical area , Gaylord :!:
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Postby nitroman » Thu 13.12.2007, 18:34

Paul, that looks good. Experience tells me that anyone can spray ceramic. Where vendors come short is either:
1) Not prepping the part, like removing rust.
2) The metallic ceramic must be polished to acheive the "chrome look". I received one from a bloke in Orlando years back that was coated but not polished, and it was just an ugly matte gray.

At this point you can use metal polish to clean the part or to remove surface rust. These will develope light surface rust if left damp, but the ceramic coating will never rust-through and is quite thick.

JH is the only "ceramicker" which claims they use a flow-though process which coats the inside of pipes. They won't do it down to the diameter of the turbo oil line, but they did coat the inside of the long water-pipe you mentioned. If you think of a paint-gun, other vendors just state they spray 'up-pipe' as far as the spray-gun can reach. JH also did a nice job of polishing even the inside of exhaust tubing, as far up as I could see using a small light on a string. That kind of detail gives me a boner.
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Postby Paul.P » Thu 13.12.2007, 21:44

Matt, these are like a dull chrome ( greyish ) effect, are you saying if polished with something like Autoglym, they will come to a bright shine ?.
Must admit, main reason i had these done was to preserve the parts, but better looks is always a bonus .
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Postby Gary » Fri 14.12.2007, 17:06

Paul.P wrote:Serious comments only in the technical area :!:


:smt098
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Postby Paul.P » Fri 14.12.2007, 17:21

Gary wrote:
Paul.P wrote:Serious comments only in the technical area :!:


:smt098


Whats up, can't you make any serious ones ? :o
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Postby Enright » Fri 14.12.2007, 17:53

Look forwards to seeing a pic of the engine by with them fitted.
Should really set it off.
Striking fear into the hearts of duplicate posts everywhere...! :P

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Postby Gary » Fri 14.12.2007, 18:47

Maybe I just don't get excited about a few bits of metal which have been painted silver !
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Postby GeoffSmith » Fri 14.12.2007, 18:57

Gary wrote:Maybe I just don't get excited about a few bits of metal which have been painted silver !


Gary, they haven't been painted and it's Paul in Rutland's car not Paul in Manc's. :-D

Nice job Paul. Did the £170 include all the prep work or did you do that yourself?
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