I did something stupid with the rear brakes.......Help wanted!Isn't it handy for all you new tinkerers that there is somebody who makes all the mistakes for you, takes pictures of them, and posts it on the forum, for some just for a quick laugh, for some as a lesson how NOT to do things?That way you don't have to make the same mistakes I did!
So here's a new one:
Last week I replaced the front brake pads for Ferodo's. Left took me 3 hours, right 30 minutes (I learn fast). Braking is perfect after that, as perfect as standard callipers brake. The Wilwoods are in the progress of being refurbished, but I have to use the car, so therefore this intermediate solution.
However, after replacing front discs, I noticed that the RH rear brake tends to hang as is was getting hot and I could feel it when almost come to an complete stop when releasing the brake pedal.
So my initial thought was: Sticky Piston (Bob, are these part of your kit?). As I intended to change rear pads as well I had a chance to clean it up, grease it and put it back together. Of course I should have read the manual first (which by now I have in hard copy in front of me

) But I was confident that things would be simple. The plan was: replace pads, check piston moves freely, if not clean and reassemble.
The new pads:




Anti squeal shim:

Rear Caliper (before the tiny drama

)

Removal of Caliper Bolts

Removal of Hand brake cable

So old pads out, new greenstuff pads in and push piston back in... no luck? All other sliders / pistons on brakes I have done so far (1x front Elan, 1x front Suzuki Swift and 1x front Lancia Lybra) this could be done with 2 thumbs, moderate force.
After 10 minutes I came to the conclusion that the piston must be
really corroded and that is was stuck. No problem, I thought. Just use the brake pedal and gently push the piston out, till I can reach it with Scotchbrite and clean it up and push it back.
You guessed right. The brake pads are now almost touching (1 mm slack) and there is no way I can push the piston back in the calliper again.
Is this due to the check valve, or because I have to rotate the piston to get it back in the calliper? (My guess would be the latter

)
I cannot remove the pads in this position. But if it is absolutely necessary because you need to rotate the bloody piston, I'm afraid I'll have to drill out the buttons on the outboard pad to get the pad out....
Is there anyone who did the same thing and has an alternative (easy) solution to get me back on track again?
