Mike Y wrote:Under bonnet labels (Used would be OK s I can get them copied)
Mike,
Having seen the ridiculous prices that Lotus want for the underbonet stickers, I made my own.
It took a while to exactly replicate the OE ones, but I believe that I now have them as close to original as possible (well, I can't tell the difference). The hardest bit was the exact typeface used for the VIN plates....... but I cracked it. (Luckilly I worked on the Stolen Vehicle Squad back in the '90s, and dug out an old publication which gives all fonts for all makes in the 'How to spot a forgery' section..... the hardest part was actually finding the correct fonts to put on the computer - it was done on an old machine back in the day, and actually uses a mixture of 3 fonts.)
This is a .pdf of my finished set, which you can compare to the ones you need - if they're going to be good enough for you, then feel free to use them, adapt them or whatever you wish - they print out at the correct size on A4.
I can let you have each of the stickers as seperate .jpg files if you want/need to adapt them.
Be aware that the 'e' plate compliance stickers vary between certain cars, so it may not be as per JUFs (but i have it as a Word document if you need to change it).
For the VIN plates, I'd prefer NOT to divulge the fonts required (for obvious reasons, which don't include any desire to make myself a fortune!!!), but if you want to avoid paying Lotus prices for a vinyl sticker, I'll hapily create the document for them as a .pdf for you if you provide the VIN number you require (and let me know if your axle weights are any different - also if you have (or want) a paint / Trim code on it - some have them, some don't.
For actually creating them, the choices are to either go to a comercial printer with the .pdf, or do them yourself.
Having tried various methods (and types of material) I have found that some cheaper vinyls don't work well - they tend to peel up after a while. The one I now use is
this one. They print on a standard inkjet printer (I've got a Cannon Pixma which works well with it).
To preserve the quality (and keep it weatherproof) I have used various 'attempts' to laminate it with clear vinyl &
fixative spray, but get the longest-lasting results with
3M clear 'stoneguard' vinyl.If left untreated, it is still semi-permanent (not much UV gets through the bonet

), but will have a life expectancy of 2 years, not the 10+ that you should get.
TBH, they look best without any coating and as I have kept the proofs, I can print them up whenever I feel I need a new set.
I'm fairly certain that given the artwork, a commercial supplier could make them up in a 'permanent' format, but (a) I like playing, & (b) I'm a cheapskate.