“Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Steve)

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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Sun 01.11.2020, 03:58

Thanks Fred John, really hope to get time today. The Snapon one is a delight, but a lot more expensive and I really cannot justify snapon tools for my level of usage.
Last edited by 378S2 on Mon 02.11.2020, 02:32, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Sun 01.11.2020, 12:53

The short version of this afternoon is that I’ve tested it every possible way, connected it directly to my compressor on full pressure, and with the coolant reservoir filled to the brim so there was no chance of missing a bubble... nothing.

So that’s a good thing, but I haven’t forgotten that the most my compressor can provide is an order of magnitude lower than full pressure under running conditions so I will watch it closely and get ready to do the work when / if I need to.

But for now, I’ll finish the brake refresh, fit the stainless hoses and take my kids out for a drive (one at a time).
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Direct pressure from the compressor, in gear and wheels chocked to keep the cylinders at TDC
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Nothing... no action. Not a sausage.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Wed 11.11.2020, 13:53

I don’t want to be too quick to declare victory... but I think I have solved the mystery of the bubbles (with help from a few of you on here, especially FredJohn) and the source does not seem to be the head gasket but an airlock in the cabin heater.

What a relief! Half a bottle of water wetter (which is just a surfactant), parked it nose up on a steep hill and I have both hot air and no more bubbles. Just a short test drive tonight, during which I got smoked by an Audi R8 but I’ll put some miles in over the weekend to convince myself.

And yes, I am a dumbass but I try hard.
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07703F2A-2BB9-4D61-AA8B-0FF44B9798EF.jpeg
Two important part deliveries today.
A6B327E5-DF00-4D87-85AB-96F4B0780A02.jpeg
Another expert diagnostic tool to go with the patent pending Chicken Test - the “does it spit coolant at full boost & 7,000RPM” o-meter
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby HJ2 » Wed 11.11.2020, 17:02

Good job! :clap:
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Fri 04.12.2020, 00:08

Some big changes to update you all on. Tremendous changes - some people are saying the biggest changes.

1. LED lights all round, except the headlights which I think are pretty good and I’m not sure what the fuss is about. The replacement flasher for the LEDs doesn’t click, and now that I’ve done a few kms I wish it did, I’ll either get another one or wire up an external sounder.

2. Momo tuner steering wheel - it came with the car along with two original S2 steering wheels, but I took it off in favour of the original fairly soon after owning it. But now that I’ve had the car a little while the momo is definitely a better feel

3. I pulled the stereo out to have a look because some old service history notes made me suspicious... and sure enough it needed a bit of love to get it up to standard. I’ve spliced the aftermarket connector in properly with lashings of heat shrink. There’s only one area of modified wiring left for me to check - the immobiliser. I am 90% sure I’m going to find some more gremlins there.

Then lots of kms in the sun. Got a bit sunburnt yesterday coming back from Fremantle - sorry to rub it in for all the UK owners with their cars wrapped up for winter.

Update - I imported one of these from Classic Car LEDs, they’re a good bunch and very helpful. Works, clicks, no hassle.
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017BCB92-A574-42B9-BC1B-80913FB964DF.jpeg
UPDATE: Replaced the Narva unit with this one from the UK which works and clicks. My ying has been restored.
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I don’t think I would have paid for this if it didn’t come with the car, but I love it now it’s back on.
2A5EB7EE-57A2-49D4-984A-E537745F0ACC.jpeg
Not a fan of this style connector at the best of times, especially when live wires are poking out. I’ve jointed in a proper harness now, better than original - or at least the same as.
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The ignition services feed had been connected to the clock. I’m ok with that but the work didn’t pass inspection and needed a bit of love.
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The new one on the right doesn’t click, and I wish it did.
Last edited by 378S2 on Sat 26.12.2020, 01:08, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Sat 05.12.2020, 12:19

Quick trip down the road with my youngest tonight.
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Sunset rarely disappoints on the west coast
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby TorqueHorse » Mon 07.12.2020, 17:29

:clap:
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Chassis Exterior FrSus RrSus Engine Trans Wheels Steering Brakes Cooling Fuel Ventilation Exhaust Interior
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby Simon_P » Mon 07.12.2020, 21:54

378S2 wrote:Sunset rarely disappoints on the west coast

Ice Cream while watching the sunset on Cottesloe beach?
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Mon 14.12.2020, 01:22

Simon_P wrote:Ice Cream while watching the sunset on Cottesloe beach?


Almost! That’s Burn’s Beach though, I’m up in the northern suburbs with all the other English people, it’s like a sunny version of Brighton but with sand.

Another huge mystery solved - 2020’s most unanswerable question, “Why doesn’t the heater matrix valve close on full cold?”

With the glovebox removed you can see where the control rod and metal flap thing hit the vacuum micro switch, it wasn’t applying enough displacement to close it. I didn’t want to pull the dash apart, and I didn’t want to try and bend it without access so I’ve put a strip of adhesive felt pad on there, works perfectly now.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby TorqueHorse » Mon 14.12.2020, 04:54

That's funny, I guess it must be heater matrix micro switch fix season :). I had the exact same issue and I don't know about access on the RHD, but the LHD isn't great. So after trying to beef up the thickness of the paddle, I ended up knocking off the micro switch activator pad by mistake. Good news is that seems the easier way to fix. A toothpaste lid ended up being the perfect diameter to make a friction fit and extend. Top tip: a sheet of cardboard or similar, to catch your inevitable dropped bits, before they are lost forever behind trim is helpful.
Image
What was easier to apply to in the RHD, paddle or pad?
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Chassis Exterior FrSus RrSus Engine Trans Wheels Steering Brakes Cooling Fuel Ventilation Exhaust Interior
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Mon 14.12.2020, 05:50

Is your engine back in? Otherwise how did you know your valve isn’t working?

On RHD, with the glovebox out it was just about possible to reach. The pad was the only option I saw, tried using forceps but they were no good. In the end I taped the adhesive pad to my index finger and wrangled my way in there. I will take some photos next time the glovebox is out and update the original post.

Someone is going to find that toothpaste tube lid in the future and wonder how the hell it got there!
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby TorqueHorse » Tue 15.12.2020, 03:09

Sadly, the engine isn't back in. But I was able to test the integrity of my vacuum lines and reservoir as part of the check-up process. The heater valve was a perfect test indicator.

And from your description, I expect your reenactment photos to be nothing short of the Creation of Adam ;)
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Fri 18.12.2020, 12:01

Major catastrophe here in Australia - I’ve lost a wheel centre! Can anyone recommend the best ones to get? The ones on are from SJS but they’re cheap and don’t fit well. Recommendations most welcome.
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Lost, somewhere along Sunset Drive!
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby Saltire » Fri 18.12.2020, 19:42

Last time I looked (a couple of years ago when I had the same problem), S2 wheel centres were completely unobtainable. They’re a different diameter from those on the SE wheels, which you CAN get hold of.

After pursuing several fruitless avenues of enquiry, I eventually went for four of the SJ centres, which are actually Elise centres. They are a fraction small, so can be a bit of a loose fit, but some double sided tape or a smear of sealant will sort that out. Certainly mine haven’t worked loose subsequently - I checked them when I checked the locking wheel nuts only recently.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Sun 27.12.2020, 11:54

Classic Cars & Coffee here in WA today, quite an amazing turn out of cars, perhaps 700 including some really high end stuff - but also a brace of TR7s!

We are very lucky that our covid numbers are basically zero here allowing this sort of thing to happen.
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DD996B82-5218-4A98-94FC-52AD4D973983.jpeg
This one in septic tank yellow was in better shape than the BRG. Loved looking at the dashboard and remembering all that time spent trying to patch holes in the floor with a biscuit tin lid and epoxy resin.
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TR7 in BRG - I helped my brother restore one of these in 1993. I love them, although they’re not that well thought of on the whole.
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Five Lotus in the show from WA - a 7, an Exige, an Elise, a 72 Elan and Steve
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A 72 Elan viewed from the dashboard of a 95 Elan - I followed him until we headed north and south respectively and I was surprised how much acceleration Steve’s big brother had.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Tue 12.01.2021, 12:54

@H2J - thanks for the advice, here’s a photo. I don’t think that it is too bad, no noise etc. but I’d love to know what you think.
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D76AD7E8-085C-4A44-B3C1-7F9533BD25CA.jpeg
Some damage to the intake compressor.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby HJ2 » Tue 12.01.2021, 13:25

Looks a little scaffed indeed, but not scrap yet. I have seen worse. If there is no noise and you want to save a few pennies then you could try re-using it.
Perhaps fold / force the real sharp edges smooth where there is damage.

Anyway, my 2 cents :D
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby TorqueHorse » Tue 12.01.2021, 16:06

What causes this? Bad air filter?
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Chassis Exterior FrSus RrSus Engine Trans Wheels Steering Brakes Cooling Fuel Ventilation Exhaust Interior
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Tue 12.01.2021, 22:13

I think so - we have a lot of sand and dust so it wouldn’t take much. I bet the filter was mis fitted for a while.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby cliff » Fri 15.01.2021, 00:35

Hi,

looking good but as you can see, I am a little biased, mine is an SE with S2 wheels, white dials as well.

I also started out doing wiring on military aircraft as an aircraft electrical instrument fitter, not really a fan of soldering though and use Aviation grade water & oil proof inline splices, much easier, something like this:

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/te- ... lsrc=3p.ds

One of the most annoying things about buying an old car is repairing other people's bodges, I think I took out 2 old alarm systems and a serious mess of wires, looks like you are getting well ahead of the game on that one, well done.
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