Small (or maybe not) project. 91 elan

[dapinky]

Joao,

From the picture, most of the back section looks pretty solid to me. I'd consider removal of the base part either by unscrewing the bolt from underneath (not likely to be easy!), or simply destroying the threaded 'plate', and removing the bolt. You can make up another plate with a flat piece of steel and an M12 (IIRC) nut welded to it.... or even sandwiched between two steel plates, and welded up solid.

With that out of the way, you should be able to get to the rotted bits of steel behind it and get to clean(ish) metal.... then put the new 'base' in the right place, stick a stainless bolt up from underneath (you can use any type but I used ones with cheese heads and allen key holes, and hold it in place while you weld the new bits to the back plate.

Once that is welded up you can build the side pieces back with either new metal or weld..... be careful not to weld the bolt to the threaded bit, or it will be there forever.

The top bit is easy to get at, and the front plate can be spot welded (or actually plug-welded is easier unless you have a spot welder) after spraying it with wayoyl (or similar). When it is solid, it doesn't matter what it looks like as it all gets hidden anyway - and the front panel can be built up either as one piece or in sections, as long as it attaches to solid metal at the front and rear.

Bear in mind that the whole point of it is to have something solid to lift the car for a wheel change - not to look pretty - so solid welding is what we are aiming for, not beautiful artwork which may fail!

[Fredjohn]

Notwithstanding Dave's comments above, if you do need to cut back any further and can't use an angle grinder, have you thought of using a multi tool? Put a steel cutting blade on and they will access almost everything.

Nice work so far. Very brave of you! Just hope I don't have to do it!

[Tuga2112]

Thanks for the suggestions.

removing the bottom plate was a very dificult task, I ended up cutting a bit into the threads of the bolt, which leads me to wonder if any M10 alen head bolt will do to replace or if i really need to buy the lotus specific one

I Have a very strong replacement piece of metal ready for the base.
At the moment i'm not decided as far as rebuilding the support with weld VS new metal. I have spare metal of a few different thinknesses. some much thicker than the original metal, however the most practical one I have at hand is a .9mm thick sheet of zinc plated steel, which i suspect is thinner than the original metal.


I will be digging my multi tool box to see if i got any metal cutting attachments.

im going to return to work on it tomorow after work.

[dapinky]

The bolt doesn't need to be specific Lotus one - I used a 'normal' one from my selection in stock..... Just make sure that whatever is left sticking out the bottom of the car will engage in the standard jack, as that is what it is designed for!

As far as material to weld up, I would suggest something like 1.6mm steel...... if you do use galvanised, be a bit careful when welding - the fumes from the molten zinc are toxic (even in small doses).

[Tuga2112]

Got a question that may deserve its own topic,


I See it mentioned in the forum and the manual about Butyl and Sikaflex as the main 2 types of sealants used to glue panels (eg. clam shell to body) and seal against water ingress (trim plastic under the door and glueing other seals with the body)

Since im in the process of taking everything apart and putting it back together in the Car, Id like to know what Other people use and what they recomend I should be using from the toolstation or screwfix range for those purposes.

Things i need to put together include
metal to fibregalss
(Where i am Repairing/rebuilding the front jacking points and outriggers )
plastic to fibreglass
(b post interior trim panels, the trim panels under the door.)
rubber/foam TO FIBREGLASS
(hood stowage compartment seal to the bodywork )
Carpet to bodywork
(pretty much all the carpets in the car have been removed)

[dapinky]

Joao,

Where 'sikaflex' is mentioned, it can be taken to mean any suitable high-strength polyurethane adhesive - Sikaflex is simply one brand. Another well-known brand is Tiger Seal, but I use Pu18 which is easily available from ebay.

Where butyl is mentioned, it is a form of flexible gooey stuff which comes in a roll - again, I buy from ebay, but it is used in roofing for joining metal, so can be bought in any builders merchants. It is available in either 'round' or rectangular cross-sections in various sizes, and you simply mold it to fit.

For fixing the underlay and carpets, a simple 'spray adhesive' like this one from Screwfix is fine.

Basically, Pu adhesive is for high-strength things (sill metal to fibreglass etc) where you are unlikely to ever want to dismantle it again. It cures with water in the air, so can be used where the things to be joined are either damp already, or likely to be subjected to damp. (Lotus use it to join body sections).

Butyl strip can be separated at a later time as it never truly sets, and although it will skin over, it is always flexible.... good for fixing things like the sill plates which need to be removable but watertight. Also used for fixing the rubber seal to the rear deck, fixing things like the speaker housings in the doors and the access cover panels in the doors.

Spray adhesive does what it says on the tin - good for carpet fitting.

[Tuga2112]

Thanks for the overal guidelines and suggestions Dave.

The Butyl strip seems something of a different style than what Jamien_N suggested i used when fitting the header seal. I Was expecting something of the same style as the silicone gun dispencers to be used to handle the butyl sealant .

=-=-=-=-=-

On a annoyinly different note .
The Rear part of the outrigger Behid the B Post Interior trim PAnel on the passenger side is gone to the tin worm.
The rust is creeping into the seatbelt bolt at the back (pretty close to the fuel tank).






I can paint the existing rust with hammerite and hope the rust stops spreading. OR alternatively remove the fuel tank and weld new metal.

I Dont want my "2021 respray" task to project creep into a major project thread. but at the same time. I have a preference to deal with it now instead of taking the whole car apart again in 2-5 years time to deal with it.

The Fuel Tank on the car is nearly Full. draining it is not a big problem since i would be draining it to a jerry can and fill up the other car in 8-12 runs

Im looking for tips and tricks on how to proceed. most importantly refering the fuel tank removal part of the task

Im going to leave this post unfinished for the moment as i intend to ask a question on the outriggers post that will be related to my decision making on this

[Tuga2112]

as far as repairing the front passenger jacking point. this is the video on the topic.

this video is the same as the one you can publicy see in my channel, but exclusively released for the forum

I need to do another video on the clam shell fixing removal (all the rusty bits) And after that one is finished im goin to remove the rear suspension, fuel tank, and finally address the rear of the outriggers as previsouly described.

i wil be updating things here as progress is made

Thanks for all the help guys.

[Rambo]

Excellent work João

[tb10]

Splendid!!

[Kipperozzy]

Great job and video, no wonder this forum is the dogs bollocks

[Simon_P]

Nice Video - thanks Joao.

[Steve A]

well done Joao, and for taking the time to film, edit and post it

[muley]

Excellent job.

Thank you.

[Rambo]

Excellent work João

Next time you make an excursion to Scotland João bring your welding gear and some metal. I can arrange some work for you. Free use of The Bothy, food and beers included. We can also spend more time exploring the fantastic country roads in Jim Clark territory

[dapinky]

Following discussion with Joao, and notwithstanding that he is the owner of the video(s), LEC are pleased to be able to host a copy of this excellent tutorial in the 'Manuals' section, and which we hope to add to in due course.

We will NOT be hosting every video produced, and due to file size restrictions, they will be in a Web Format, not in HD......

.... so if you want a general idea of what is involved, look here, but if you want full Cinematic experience and the ability to leave appreciative comments (plus see the full selection of tutorials), then go to João's channel on YouTube at:-

https://youtu.be/VUH5dKS716E