Step by Silky Step

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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Tue 19.10.2021, 20:29

Thanks for the advice, guys.

The O2 sensor is now in pieces but at least I was able to remove it after breaking the top off. New one is on it's way from Rock Auto.
I tried the extensions / axle stand / breaker bar / jack handle on the crank pulley bolt but no go.
Eventually got the bolt undone using a mains-powered impact wrench, don't know why I didn't try it before!

Had to drill out and re-tap a front disk locating screw today, also found out that the front wheel bearing I installed last year has failed in a few hundred miles.
I bought SKF to ensure quality but it looks like it was a fake.

Note to self - ONLY order bearings from known sources.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby chrisP » Wed 20.10.2021, 16:11

Glad you are making progress Ron

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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Mon 01.11.2021, 19:43

The cylinder head is now off and the steam cleaned top of No.1 piston confirms HGF.
Top_of_block_No1+2.jpg
No.1 piston steam cleaned


The head side of the gasket was the source of the leak - luckily only from water jacket to cylinder.
There's also a mark (yellow arrow) on the head which looks like the fire ring was breached there as well.
Head_fire_seal_leaks_No1.jpg


However I found some corrosion in the head around No.4 cylinder.
Head_corrosion_No4.jpg

The corrosion ends about 2mm from the head gasket fire ring.
I'm not sure whether to get some more material welded in or just leave it - it's taken 29 years to corrode this far - what do you think?
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Fri 17.12.2021, 19:14

The cylinder head is back from the machine shop. :D
The head was skimmed and new bronze valve guides were fitted, as like Jonathan F I had some corrosion on the leaking cylinder's guides which restricted valve movement.
Also had a 3-angle job done on the seats as they were being re-cut anyway.
The corrosion around No.4 was well away from the fire ring even after skimming, so was left alone.
head-skimmed.jpg
Skimmed


While disconnecting the fuel injectors I managed to break one of the now brittle plastic connectors, due to the clamping spring being almost impossible to release.
I found replacements with springs which are much easier to handle - they'll be crimped AND soldered during the rebuild.
They can be found by putting "TYCO AMP Junior Power Timer 2pin Fuel injector sensor plug" into your favourite auction site search.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Rambo » Sat 18.12.2021, 09:39

Ron - did you know you had HGF, or suspected you had HGF, before you took the head off? If so, what were your particular symptons?

PS nice shiny head :smt023
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Sat 18.12.2021, 13:04

Yes Rambo,
I suspected it earlier this year when I had the occasional mysterious loss of coolant and the hoses seemed to be under a bit more pressure than usual. There was no emulsion in the cam cover so I knew oil and water were kept apart.
The clincher was on the way back from CC when I gave it the beans with what was subsequently found to be a stuck wastegate. The turbo over-boosted which I think was the last straw for the gasket.
Next morning the car wasn't happy, misfiring and puffing steam out of the exhaust.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Thu 17.02.2022, 18:09

Just restarted the cylinder head rebuild after life got in the way for a bit.
Now we're all prone to a bit of project creep now and again, so I thought I'd keep a record of the extra work carried out while I'm supposed to be rebuilding my cylinder head.
If nothing else it will shame me into concentrating on the job at hand.

1. Front caliper rebuild with new pistons and seals.
refurbed-calipers.jpg
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Mon 04.04.2022, 13:23

2. Found TPS wiring under the rubber boot was not looking so good:
tps-before.jpg
TPS Wiring as found


Stripped back and re-soldered:
tps-after.jpg
TPS Wiring after re-soldering
tps-after.jpg (78.81 KiB) Viewed 254 times
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby HJ2 » Mon 04.04.2022, 14:09

Top Job!

Did you need to cut away conformal coating to resolder?
If you always do what you always did, you always get what you always got
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Mon 04.04.2022, 15:37

No conformal coating on this TPS HJ, just a rubber boot over the soldered wires. It appears to be an original Hitachi version and tests nice and smooth on the Multimeter.
The terminals have forked ends which need to be spread apart slightly to allow the wires to be inserted, then nipped in before soldering.

As Sod's law dictates a circlip inside my solder sucker broke and spread plunger, spring and bits of solder over a wide area of the dining room! Just managed to clean it up before SWMBO got home!
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Sat 07.05.2022, 13:16

More project creep items, mainly due to finding some dodgy bushes and some surface rust in the longerons:

3. Dismantled front suspension, removed all bushes and sent for Powder coating
b-powder.jpg
Before

4. Ally parts sent for Vapour blasting. Received back looking far, far better than when sent:
b-a-vapour.jpg
Before & After

5. Replaced both wheel bearings and Jackshaft bearing
Driveshaft Brgs.jpg
Bearings
Driveshaft Brgs.jpg (75.5 KiB) Viewed 80 times

6. Refurbished Alternator with Simon's kit and replaced Starter motor contacts

7. Ported wastegate to 19.5mm

8. Adjusted focus of Durite main beam headlights

9. Started engine bay cleanup
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby TorqueHorse » Sat 07.05.2022, 15:07

Wow, that vapor blasting result is beautiful (CO2?). Silky as always :).
Where did you find all the bushings for the other parts you are getting powder coated?
'90 FED M100 -mid resto
Chassis Exterior FrSus RrSus Engine Trans Wheels Steering Brakes Cooling Fuel Ventilation Exhaust Interior
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Sat 07.05.2022, 16:11

Hi Matt,

Most of the bushes came from SJs, though some from SW Lotus centre, and a couple from Ebay. Wishbone bushes are Polyurethane, but I managed to find all the rest in the proper rubber.

I have S2 wheels on my SE, so not sure whether to go for the SE or S2 bushes in the lower rear of the rafts -
Any experts on here? Was the bush uprated to suit the heavier S2 wheels, or for some other reason? and is it just a straight substitution i.e dimensions the same?

BTW Although it's called "Vapour" blasting, the guy who did it tells me it uses a glass bead medium, and it's not suitable for ferrous materials.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Mon 23.05.2022, 10:37

Project Creep..... Moi?

Took out the headlight pivot frames to free up the pivots and both bottom studs sheared off. The heads are sandwiched between the topshell and front cross-member. Found in the WSM that I had 2 choices - cut slots in the topshell or remove the front cross-member. The Longerons are off for powder coating anyway, so off it came!
X-member-off.jpg
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