Here is what I used and how; usual disclaimers apply.
Here is the kit of parts, almost entirely bought through fleabay:
Consisting of:
5mm teflon lined (red) outer - ebay. I bought 2m which is way too much - 1m is more than enough.
1.5mm teflon coated (red) inner - ebay. The one I bought was for a rear bike brake and has what I believe is called a pear nipple (can I say that....?)
2 off 5mm Ferrules - ebay.
1 off 6mm diameter x 9mm solderless barrel nipple with stainless grub screw - ebay.
2 off M8 cable adjusters - Venhills.
4 off M8 stainless Half or Lock nuts - ebay.
3 off M8 stainless washers - I had there already.
1 off M8 Well or Rawl nut - ebay. I had to buy a pack of 10 so I hope they come in useful elsewhere...
2 off rubber cable boots - ebay. These are sold to cover outdoor satellite dish LNB connectors, but seem to fit nicely. There are probably better options.
4 off 2.5mm cable ties - ebay. You can never have enough cable ties!
1 off 40mm x 10mm steel plate which I found in the spares box in the garage; can't remember where it came from.
1 off M4 x 20mm stainless bolt
2 off M4 washers
1 off M4 nyloc nut
I went for top of the range inner and outer cables which certainly had a price premium, but then I was having a bit of an 'engine bling' moment. The whole 'kit of bits' cost approx £26, although actual expenditure was higher as I bought too much cable outer and several of the bits came in multi-packs; I have quite a few bits left over!
Having assembled the constituent parts, off I went to remove the original cable. 2 days (yes days!) later, it was off. You WILL need to remove the drivers side wheel arch liner, and if it has never been off the car before (or so it seemed) then it is a right pain in the proverbial. I had to drill out the last bolt as there was no other way it was coming out. Having finally gained access to the annoying rubber grommet that sits in the bulkhead, things were a snap and the throttle cable came out in 2 minutes.
The hole in the bulkhead:
Insert the rawlnut into the hole in the bulkhead and then thread 2 lock/half nuts onto one of the M8 adjusters and an M8 washer. Screw this into the rawlnut and tighten the lock nuts against the washer, expanding the rawlnut until it is firmly held in the bulkhead. Using the M8 rawlnut and cable adjuster instead of the original grommet, allows adjustment at both ends of the outer.
Bulkhead with rawlnut fitted:
Using the original outer as a template, I cut the new outer to the same length - probably the easiest part of the whole job
I made up the clevis that fits over the accelerator pedal lever by a bit of 'rustic metalwork', but the end result seemed to be have turned out acceptably. The hole I drilled to hold the clevis pin was 4mm. In retrospect, I would have made the hole bigger and used a proper clevis pin. As it is, I've used an M4 bolt with a nyloc nut which was a pain to fit due to restricted access and I am sure that this falls into the 'bodge' rather than 'engineered' camp.
The cable end:
with home-made clevis fitted:
Feed the inner from the inside of the car through the adjuster in the bulkhead into the engine bay and pull it through. Then spend the next 40 minutes attempting to line up the holes in the clevis with those in the accelerator pedal lever (not helped by the return spring). Fortunately, I have a much more flexible 17 year old, who adopted the full Lotus Position (bum on the driver seat; feet in the air; head in the footwell
) with abandon - bless her.Put the ferrules on the end of the outer and feed the inner through. Push the outer all the way down so it sits in the bulkhead adjuster. Slide on one of the rubber boots so it fits over the head on the adjuster. Put the other boot on, but the other way round! Then put the inner through the second adjuster, put one of the M8 half nuts and an M8 washer onto the adjuster. I wound these so the were approximately in the middle of the adjuster and then feed it through the holder on the block (you will know exactly where, given that you've just removed the old cable!). Then put on the other M8 washer and M8 half nut. Loosely tighten these.
Nearly there......put the 6mm x 9mm solderless nipple onto the inner cable and pull the inner tight, lie it round the throttle (what I think is called) quadrant and slide the nipple along until it is lined up with the hole that retains it. Tighten the grub screw (within reason) as tight as it will go. I then had a slight problem in that unless the cable exiting the nipple was cut flush then I could fit the nipple into the quadrant. I was hoping to leave some extra inner at the end, but that proved impossible without some mods to the quadrant. Therefore, it got cut flush!
After that, a simple adjustment and tightening of the adjuster and we're there. I made sure that the full travel of the cable resulted in full rotation of the throttle without stretching the cable which proved very simple; no adjustment needed to the pedal travel.
Final bit of tiding up will be to put the cable ties around each end of the boots since the friction fit isn't quite enough; a different style of boot wouldn't need this.
I'll post a picture of the finished article fitted later.
Given the teflon on teflon of the cabling, the 'action' is pretty smooth. Not done (m)any miles yet, so I'll report back on how it is holding up.
And, yes, I have got the old one in the boot, just in case.....
fitted new cable .... was not a simple job for me - Houston, we have a problem...... the old plastic clevis has broken