Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

[Doc Fizzix]

Glad you talked to the folks at CS. This sounds very similar if not the exact same as my setup (is that a 6-puck disc?). I can tell you that it drives very well - you should really like it. The clutch pedal with the 1800# PP requires a bit more effort over stock, but nothing that will leave you with a sore leg. In fact after driving for ~15 minutes, you'll forget there was ever a change. It just feels right.

not a puck clutch, it is a stage II but not a puck. I guess the materials they use have come a long way and even an organic material can be more aggressive than in the old days. I do not have it yet, it is being shipped, but I will take a pic as soon as it comes in.

[Doc Fizzix]

Just an update, Nitroman's nitrous system has arrived and I will take some pics later. I guess I will be taking the head assemble apart again since now I have to drill out the injector housing for the NOS injectors, the nitous system is a wet system and each port will have its own supplie of NOS and fuel combined injector.

The motor is still sitting at the shop with not much work having been done in the last month, the replacment pistons are here but we have been busy with other project so the motor has been on hold.

[Doc Fizzix]

Well, here we are almost a month since no activity on this topic, well I have the clutch, I have nitroman's NOS set-up and the motor is finished at the machine shop. I am picking up tomorrow and then will post the pics.

[Dave M]

Well, here we are almost a month since no activity on this topic...

Hey! I can relate to that!

Anxious to see pics of how things came out.

[Doc Fizzix]

Project is moving forward again, got the block all painted over the weekend and I have started to put the parts on the block. Today I got the crank in and got the connecting rods on the new pistons. The crank was nitrated and then re-ground to the correct size. The nitrating process hardens the crank as the nitrate penetrate deep into the steal. There is only a "light" Tuftrided coating from the factory but it does not penetrate that deep into the steal and really prevent the crank from being used after it is turned unless it is nitrated.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/11 ... ndex2.html



More pics as soon as I download them

[Doc Fizzix]

Ok, I am back in the saddle again.

Things have slowed down a bit so I had some time to work on the motor. Everything is back from the shop and now things are in my hands to get back together.

The block was cleaned and then repainted with high temp simi-gloss black, the pictures do not do it justice.

[Doc Fizzix]

All areas that were not originally painted black were painted with high temp clear. The gasket mating areas were carefully taped off so that no paint got on the gasket mating surface. The entire front was taped off and then the gaskets were traced with an exacto knife then the tape was removed so that the gasket mating surfaces remained taped over.

[Doc Fizzix]

I had bought some higher performance main bearings but all the after market top end bearings for the Isuzu motors come without the oil jets drilled out. My machinist has drilled out the oil jets and the main bearings were put in place; each bearing was custom fitted and matched to the crank journal, the clearance on each journal is exactly the same.

[Doc Fizzix]

The Arias forged pistons were placed in the cylinders. They had to be removed once I noticed the special instructions supplied by Total Seal (the rings), the instructions stated NOT to use oil on the rings during start-up, Total Seal wants you to use WD-40 ONLY in order to help the chrome rings seat better. The pistons were removed and then cleanded of any oil (including the cylinder walls) and then sprayed with WD-40. The WD-40 will not stay on the cylinder walls long so I will have to re-spray before start-up.

[Doc Fizzix]

The main caps and rod caps were all torqued to the correct setting. The only problem was with the connecting rod caps, the manual says to torque in two steps, first step is to torque to 15 Nm (10.8 lbf.ft) then the seconds step was to torque to 45 – 60 degrees. I have not seen this before but luckily my machinist had already done the calculations for me and found the actual hard number to be 31.5 lbf.ft.

[Doc Fizzix]

The oil pan was cleaned and then repainted using the high temp simi-gloss paint. About 4 coats were applied. The seal on the oil pan was made using the instructions from the manual, I would like to have a material gasket but I was willing to give this method a try. The silicon was beaded around the pan according to the instructions and then left to cure for 15 min then placed on the block. The bolts were initially finger tightened and then each bolt was removed and cleaned, then re-finger tightened. After the first cleaning, the pan was torqued to 5 Nm (half of the final torque) Than again, each bolt was removed and the excess silicon was cleaned and then the bolts were re-torqued back to 5 Nm. The final step was to torque the bolts to 10 Nm, the whole process took about 1 1/2 hours but the seal cured real nice during these many steps.

[Doug]

Looks Fantastic, Al !!



U R Jammin

why not a calypso red block?

[Monty]

WOW, should run like a dream


what a good project thread and full of tech no details, will come in hand when pinky needs a rebuild

[Candles]

That looks fantastic. A real labour of love, but well worth it for that finish.

[Doc Fizzix]

why not a calypso red block?

That would have been nice! Oh well, I have another motor coming out that I was going to rebuild so I will have to do that with the next one

[Doc Fizzix]

I forgot to add this:

The connecting rods were all balance to the same mass, the tops were done separately from the bottom caps and then all the bottom caps were done. In the end all tops of the connecting rods are the same mass and all bottom caps are the same mass.

The bearings were again matched-up so that each journal will have the same clearance. When I say “matched-up” I mean that the bearings were not just placed in the rods, they were each assembled then torqued down and measured. Some of the bearings had to be moved from one connecting rod to the other and some had to be sanded on the back-side so that in the end every one would have the ame clearance. Each connecting rod was assembled and then re-measured several times durring this process.

[Doug]

it's all in the machining to get the clearances perfect and constant in the bottom end so you have no worries down there.

how about some "h-beam" con rods for more strength?? how much boost you plan to run? best case

[Doc Fizzix]

it's all in the machining to get the clearances perfect and constant in the bottom end so you have no worries down there.

how about some "h-beam" con rods for more strength?? how much boost you plan to run? best case

The machining was really great! But my guy is also a perfectionist and measured everything over and over again.

As far as the connecting rods go, I was looking into having some made through Atomic Speedware but from all my reading and from talking with Atomic Speedware the Isuzu rods are suppose to be very strong and over engineered. I am sure their are people who know a hell of a lot more than me so I would love to hear some feedback on this.

I want to run boost upto 1.5 bar

[Matt RI]

That is purty.

All I can think of is the string of expletives I would utter the first time I changed the oil and slipped and scratched the oil pan!

Beautiful work, Al...

[nitroman]

Damn Doc, you are livin' my dream with the motor out of the car. I have removed every bit off the old engine except the block/head, intake & tranny. The old-pan, ALL coolant inlet pieces, air intake, EVERYTHING except what I initially mentioned as remaining is in my storage-room and is either glass-bead blasted or will be. The turbo turbine-side is at a machine-shop having the wastegate outlet enlarged to 21mm. I'm going to have everything except the turbine-housing & exhaust-manifold finished in Jet-Hot Sterling; the two thermally-challenged pieces being done in Jet-Hot 2000 which has a virgin cast-iron look. Even the oil-pan will be done in Sterling. The air-filter "trash-can" will have the chrome-plated plastic treatment professionally applied, which is durable and life-long.

I decided on this route as I think a silver over white (car) will provide a very clean yet tasteful appearance. No gold/silver combo like Gerome, in fact I'm still grimacing about ordering the red Samco kit instead of sticking with black but as I already have to have some red connections on the various turbo pipes I might as well carry the red minor color out; don't you think???????????