Lotus Elan Central

by **Dico** » Sat 19.01.2008, 07:01

Addict, I had my rad support panel galvanized at a local place (Middleton). Trouble is, there is a minimum price of £40. I had a few other bits done at the same time so it wasn't too bad.
The rad 'should' stay in place with this removed. At least mine did. The thing is, once you have got this far you may as well remove the towing eye and fan surrounds (you have to drill out the fan securing rivets from the shroud) and get them done at the same time as they are prone to rust. I think one of the two fan shrouds on the S2 model may be plastic???
Anyhow, this is just the begining of project creep. Maybe you should just enjoy it for a while, and make a list for next winter?
Just a word of warning about galvanizing. The process can block small gaps, much like a weld. I had to drill (and retap some) holes. I was cursing at the time but in the long run it was probably worth it.
If you are keeping the car long term then it is probably the way to go. You also need a special primer for galvanized metal.

by **GeoffSmith** » Sat 19.01.2008, 12:03

Dico wrote:I think one of the two fan shrouds on the S2 model may be plastic???

Mine aren't. :evil:

They're on the bench in the garage waiting treatment. I keep looking at the rad bracket and towing eye. :roll:

by **Paul.P** » Sat 19.01.2008, 12:29

geoffsmith wrote:
Dico wrote:I think one of the two fan shrouds on the S2 model may be plastic???

Mine aren't.

Seems to be an odd one this, some have one plastic one, some don't

, perhaps they run out of the metal ones as they were getting to the end of the 800, so bought some cheapo plastic ones :lol:

, perhaps its another of :gray: Gary's 100 S2 improvements :-D

by **nitroman** » Sun 20.01.2008, 01:56

It's an accepted fact that toward the end of the marque, Triumph TR7/TR8 cars were assembled with non-listed wheels & interior-fabrics... anything to get the cars off the line!

by **addict** » Sun 20.01.2008, 15:39

i may just whipit off and por15 it quick fix then as u say redo at a later stage

by **addict** » Mon 21.01.2008, 20:55

not that easy as it turns out.
the 2 highest bolts came out ok
one of the chassi bolts the 8mm suckers sheared
ones just rounded off and wont budge
the towing eyes bolts are also rusted tight.
so all in all the rad supports still in place awating a mad half hour with the grinder. problem with that is its not going to do the frame any favors.
so think im on the lookout for a good used on to swop it with.

o and the dam thing is as crispy as walkers finest eg semi kippered :evil:

brakes re'decorated :oops:

could the base timing be out ? all the plugs looked like this
and the car ticks over at 1.5k not the 900 rpm as listed under the bonnet

eat your heart out warhole :roll:

by **addict** » Sun 27.01.2008, 22:24

hi had a weekwend away and put 100ish miles on the car.
it decided to start flasing the low water level light in the washer tank?
its not low
the header tank started over flowing . thought i had not put the lid back on correctly so i did and it did it again on the way home.
temp maxed out at the 1/4 mark on the gauge however the heaters seems good.
also twice when switched on the headlamps stayed down for 10-15 sec before poping up.
the car now ticks over at the 1k mark again
welcome to elan ownership i hear u cry.

by **Monty** » Mon 28.01.2008, 00:30

you do realise that light is for the screen washer tank in the boot?

On the coolant tank, only fill it to the half way mark when cold. If you over fill it will overflow and could damage your coils.
If your still loosing water it`s possible of head gasket failure as your temp sounds like it is running correctly so can`t see it being a thermostat problem

BTW the spark plugs look ok to me

by **rip** » Mon 28.01.2008, 01:29

Temp normally sits at 1/4 while driving. It rises to 3/4 at idle too. The first time it does this can be quite scary if you did not know about it.
As for the headlamps, it is usually worn motor bushes which cause problems. If not rectified quickly, your motors will suffer.

by **Rambo** » Mon 28.01.2008, 08:59

Monty wrote:you do realise that light is for the screen washer tank in the boot?

LOL. That's exactly what I thought when I first read the post

by **addict** » Mon 28.01.2008, 13:21

tested today
fan came on at just above the halfway point on the gauge 1x fan only tho
also the electric water pump does not seem to be working ?
no vibration ect does this pump only run at a specific temp?
the water level was below halfway before the engine started and steadily rise untill the fan kicked in did not overflow but was close

by **paulwatkins** » Mon 28.01.2008, 13:24

Both fans should come on.

To test the electric pump:
Run the engine until the fans start up then turn the ignition off. The electric pump should start up (it is very quiet; you can feel it vibrating) and then turn off automatically when the water temp has cooled sufficiently.

by **Specky** » Mon 28.01.2008, 14:21

You can hear it and feel it...( a fine hum)

TTFN

by **addict** » Mon 28.01.2008, 19:00

thanks new cap fitted its a std vauxhaull item
made by first line (frc 68) bought from sas in stretford manchester

by **addict** » Tue 29.01.2008, 17:15

tested today again
with new cap fitted.
better but the water level goes a long way up the expansion tank before the fan kick in.(only 1 works)
i opened the bleed point at the top of the rad and when the electric pump ran a few bubbles came out .
when hot the water level came quite close to the top but it did not spew out.
also the tank seems to be at a jaunty angle wear and tear i guess i will have to jiggle it
what levels dos the water in other folks engines go to ..it has to be noted just as the fan kicks in as the level drops a little when the fans are on
_____________________________________________________________
update rad problems sorted i had an air lock. i think
near side fan is goosed so thats currently out awaiting replacement
and i fitted a bov :lol:

by **addict** » Sun 10.02.2008, 18:29

ok after a dice drive in the sun to the park today with the lid down i decided to find out why the old central locking is not functioning.
so drivers door pannel; comes off and lo there is no motor and no signal from the small black and yellow wires ?
also the door speaker is the oldest looking moth eaten pile of pants .
if anyone has a picture of a bare door to show me where the motor sits and can conferm that i have the correct wires sellected as lock feeds.
ps the black wire is an earth .
i have some universal cl motors from another project but the bi directional motors (lock and unlock ) have 3 wires ...
the 2 wired jobbies i have only work 1way. depnd on how they get wired in.
18/2/08
peco 2.14" stainles system fitted

by **addict** » Tue 22.04.2008, 08:41

discs being skimmed :roll:

bad job done first time by the local noddys

done 50thou runnout before work started

by **addict** » Tue 01.07.2008, 23:49

fitted a new sticker.....

by **addict** » Tue 15.07.2008, 19:14

head gaskit now gone,
while running the engine at idle with wins oil system flush mixed with the oil (flushuing prior to oil change ) the expansion tank cap quite literly exploded pink cooling water everywhere.
so im going to do the head gaskit im off to search for other threads and swot up. :roll:

by **addict** » Wed 16.07.2008, 23:28

heads off

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the project has commenced

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