Trainee Mechanic

[Doc Fizzix]

I have started to apply waxoyl to the rear wishbone and anti-roll bar, I just wanted to check that it s supposed to look like this, for some reason I was expecting it to be smooth like paint.

Ailwyn

One word ---- YUCK!


I do not want this on my car. Why not just have everything blasted and then put on several good coats of epoxy-sealing primer on and then some quality paint?

[ailwyn]

Does anyone have a picture of Jacking Point B as per page 6 of the Service Manual, I will need to get the front onto axle stands to do the wilwoods and do not want to take any chances on getting the stands in the right place.

Thanks

Ailwyn

[muley]

Ta Da!

Hope this helps


Jim

[Monty]

should also be in u`r owners handbook

[ailwyn]

Thanks Jim, just the job.

Monty, I have the service manual, but a picture removes the guesswork

Thanks

Ailwyn

[Monty]

Thanks Jim, just the job.

Monty, I have the service manual, but a picture removes the guesswork

Thanks

Ailwyn

Thought it did have a pic

[ailwyn]

[quote="MontyThought it did have a pic [/quote]

Didn't look that far, assumed it would be the same as the service manual

Ailwyn

[ailwyn]

Well, it's been a long time coming, but Stage 1 is now complete, stripped the rears back to the suspension, and re-built with Braided Hoses, EBC Drilled & Grooved Discs, Refurbed calipers and Greenstuff Pads....

Looked the dogs..... until overnight the discs aquired a layer of surface rust. No much I can do about that, except drive the car, however that has to wait as we have now moved into stage 2 - Front Brake Wilwood Upgrade.

Managed to remove the calipers and both discs, but on both sides the head snapped off the disc retaining screws Managed to remove one myself, the other is still in situ, waiting for someone more experienced than myself to have a go at it. If I can avoid it I don't want to remove the hub (which would make it a lot easier) as I'm guessing I'll then be into new bearing territory. Not somewhere I want to be, I just want to get the car back on the road.

Picked up some disc (hat to hub) bolts from the local Vauxhall dealer, specified for the 1990 Nova/Cavalier. There were two types of bolts listed - M6 x 12 or M6 x 14.

I have gone for the M6 x 14 as this is the closest to the Lotus Part (M6 x 18) and there is around 5 mm of bolt protruding from the rear of the hub, so the test will be if the bolt reaches the back of the hub then this should suffice. Any thoughts on this approach/assuption would be appreciated.

Will post pics later of the rears, will try to clean up some of the rust first though

Ailwyn

[Dave M]

Looked the dogs..... until overnight the discs aquired a layer of surface rust. No much I can do about that, except drive the car ...

There you go! Don't worry about the rust, it usually happens to disc surfaces, especially when they've been handled.

Good to hear things have gone well with the rears. Anxious to see the pics. As for the fronts, you can just drill out the broken bolt that held on the rotor. Mine did the same the first time I took the stock rotors off. I drilled them out and never replaced it. I've not have a problem in over 6 years.

As for the wheel bolts - after install, keep the front of the car jacked up and give the wheels a spin. Listen for contact or rubbing on anything (even the slightest bit). If none, you should be fine. I have bolts in the rear that are much longer than stock (polished bolts that came as part of my AP kit), and they have not been an issue.

[ailwyn]

Thanks Dave.....

The problems come thick and fast though....

Still waiting on my local garage to send someone to try and shift the bolt for me as I think it's beyond my capabilities.

Anyway, moved on with the passenger front, all has gone well except the mounting of the caliper bracket to the hub carrier.

When I try and torque the bolts to 81.4 NM which is as close as my torque wrench gets to ESM's suggested 80 NM, I have torqued it up, however there is still a significant gap between the bracket and the hub carrier.

What am I doing wrong? Am I missing something obvious? Should I keep tightening until the space is taken up?

I am using the M12 bolts that were bought as a job lot by Alan(?).

Ailwyn

[Specky]

Have the bolts gone "Thread bound"....(Run out of screw thread)

TTFN

[ailwyn]

Have the bolts gone "Thread bound"....(Run out of screw thread)

Dave,

If I understand you correctly then no, the thread engaged with the hub carrier and continues to hold, the thread (on the bolt) runs right to the bolt head, however as I have reached the estimated torque requirement I thought it best to seek advice before pushing it.

The front of the bolt is running through the hub carrier into (fairly) open space, so it hasn't reached the limit of travel. My gut feel would be to keep pushing until the gap is closed, but as these are rather crucial to my continued happy motoring I don't want to chance it.

Ailwyn

[Specky]

Something isn’t adding up....it's not right for sure...

See if you can undo it, chances that you've cold-fused it are slim but...

My next guess would be to check internal and external screw threads for damage...you might of court a burr.. Normally incompatible screw threads..

When it comes to it something’s stopping it...

I'll have to have think....

TTFN

[Dico]

Ailwyn

I had the same issue when doing mine.
Monty also had this issue whilst doing his wilwoods.
From what I can recall it was something to do with the new bolts being longer than the original, and therefore being tight because that section of the hubs thread had never been used before, and had been exposed for all those years.
I dont think we had the need to go past the required torque settings, but it was very tight.

Perhaps the way to go is to keep tightening until you lock them up fully and clear all the accumlated crud, then back them off and re torque them to the correct setting?

Please dont do this untill someone else can confirm my thoughts, as I wouldnt like to be responsible for giving you duff info

[Paul.P]

Ailwyn, can you run a tap through the threads, to make sure there clear, & perhaps a die down the bolt, to make sure there is no burrs ?. I did this with mine & they did up no problem.

[ailwyn]

Ailwyn, can you run a tap through the threads, to make sure there clear, & perhaps a die down the bolt, to make sure there is no burrs ?. I did this with mine & they did up no problem.

Paul,

I don't have a tap, where can I get one? Would that be a Halfords type item?

I did have a look at the bolts before I used them, it all looked ok to me, no obvious defects.

Dave,

Tried to tighten them, slowly, and the bolt will still moveforward, but it does require more torque than spec. Took my spare 5 mins to do that, have not tried to wind them out, however I can't see the bolt being frozen.

Dico,

Your suggestion is exactly what I was thinking, might try to back them out and re-tighten to be safe.

Thanks all, will try again tomorrow evening.

Ailwyn

[algirdas]

Dear Ailwyn:

Instead of a tap and a die, I suuggest you consider getting a thread restorer set. They are like taps and dies, but are intended for just staightening out existing threads versus cutting new ones. Here is the one I routinely use: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 0942275000

$50 or so and I have seen the same set re-branded by other companies.

Just a drop or two of oil on the restorer and you clean up the threads. Then use brake cleaner spray or lacquer thinner to clean away the oil and everything fits like new. It helps you get accurate torque reading as well.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[GeoffSmith]

it was something to do with the new bolts being longer than the original, and therefore being tight because that section of the hubs thread had never been used before, and had been exposed for all those years.

It's always a good idea to take make sure the nut/bolt will do up past the point at which they expected to be torqued up at. Otherwise, you can end up being seriously under-torqued which is not a good idea with brakes!

As a matter of routine, I always clean up the threads with a wire brush and then run the fastener up by hand without the item being fastened. If it's stiff at any point, then it gets some attention. Algirdas's tools look brilliant (any room in your trousers when you come over next Algirdas?) but I've never seen anything like them over here. I usually cut four grooves up the length of the right size bolt with a hacksaw and carefully file and dress the end to achieve the same results but Sod's law says you've never got the right bolt.

Be very careful with taps/dies because it is very easy to get off on the wrong thread and cut a new one which is inherently weaker than the original (especially in aluminium). Run the tap in by hand until you're sure you've picked up the thread.

[Monty]

ailwyn

Dico is right, try removing the caliper and braket and put the bolt back in on it`s own and wind that sucker in to clear the threads, do that a few times and u should be right. Don`t forget to use lock tight on those bolts

[Specky]

ailwyn

Don't forget to use lock tight on those bolts

All that heat and loads of vibration...

TTFN