Lotus Elan Central

I'm wasn't absolutely sure where to put this.... Anyway, at the end of last year I got (or rather my company got) a 3D printer. It's a cheap and cheerful one that prints items by laying down layers of a molten polymer thread (usually ABS or PLA). Many colours are possible and in principle I could even print an item with 2 different colours. The parts made have a kind of steppy surface finish because each layer has an appreciable thickness (0.25mm usually, 0.125 and 0.5mm are also possible, although thinner layers = more layers = more build time). The planes between the layers are weaker than an injection moulded part would be and it's MUCH slower to produce parts (a typical part takes several hours). long parts (>20cm) can have problems with warpage, although this can be mitigated with design and build condition tweaks.

To get to the point, it might be possible to make little bits, like the B pillar covers or anything else that's small, plastic, doesn't need massive strength and is hard to find. I'll need to do a 3D drawing of any part that is suggested so try to start with the simple stuff! If I don't have access to the bit in question someone will have to lend it to me or draw it for me.

The advantage is that it'll be cheap but quite possibly slow as it'll be done in spare machine time and, as I said, each part takes a while to build.

Is there any interest? If so what would you like to see made?

Awesome!

Now would be the time to sharpen my 3D drawing skills.
What type of format does your printer handle?

I've had the same thought when I started building a REPRAP (self replicating rapid prototyping) 3D printer over a year ago. But unfortunately I haven't had the time to finish the wiring or tweak the firmware, a full DIY home renovation has eaten my spare time.

If people are going to the hassle of CADing up small parts, is there a central place these files could be stored? Has anyone already CAD modeled parts? It could be a good idea to collect as much CAD info as is available to enable people to get replacement parts made locally (says the guy living in Aus) when replacement parts runout.

Good luck with 3D printer, I hope to join you in this new era in the not too distant future

There are at least 2 scans available on here at the moment.

Superbad had a .STL file of the door mirror pivot pins

Pivot pins

and there's a .STP file for the door handle escutcheons. I also have this in an .IGS format if you need it.

escutcheon

Been thinking about trying to set up a 3D scanner. Looking here it seems reasonably simple and quite affordable for a simple setup.

www.david-laserscanner.com/

I was looking at 3d scanners too......wanted to do a blank rear light that Id then mod up in sort of audi led format....
I did find somewhere that did scans......I'll see if I can dig it out.....
good call though...Ive seen the 3d printers and they do look very useful

The printer takes files derived from .stl files. The drawing package I use is Alibre Design Professional, I can import most formats with it.

I'm going to try and print an escutcheon soon (thanks for the links Wayne).

I just ran the tool path for the escutcheon. The predicted print time is just shy of 17hrs (0.25mm layer)! It's never going to perform mass production but it is good for small runs and prototyping.

ESM wrote:I just ran the tool path for the escutcheon. The predicted print time is just shy of 17hrs (0.25mm layer)! It's never going to perform mass production but it is good for small runs and prototyping.

I wish I knew you had it a few months ago but I guess that will explain the silly quotes of £10,000 + that I recieved from various companies offering to 3D print them.

Just curious about the 0.25mm layer?? I assume that this is the thickness of each layer built up and not the part thickness? I believe the escutcheon is a little over 1mm thick?

I remember seeing a link a year ago about them and thought it would be a cool thing to own. But untill recently never looked into it any more.
It would be interesting to know how a scan would turn out. Maybe look at doing superbads pivot pin. It's alot smaller part than the escutcheon.

Still it is good to know that some people here have access to one. All you need now is the 3D scanner.

mmmm...
anyone seen this?

http://www.david-laserscanner.com/

Yeah it's quite easy to do 3D scans, on simple shapes anyway. It's been on my to do list for ages but I haven't a big enough need to drive me to actually do it. If I had had to draw the escutcheon myself I suspect I would have resorted to one!

The 0.25mm is indeed the thickness of each layer from which the part is built up - not the wall thickness of the part which will be more or less as drawn.

Fetnas wrote:I've had the same thought when I started building a REPRAP (self replicating rapid prototyping) 3D printer over a year ago. But unfortunately I haven't had the time to finish the wiring or tweak the firmware, a full DIY home renovation has eaten my spare time.

If people are going to the hassle of CADing up small parts, is there a central place these files could be stored? Has anyone already CAD modeled parts? It could be a good idea to collect as much CAD info as is available to enable people to get replacement parts made locally (says the guy living in Aus) when replacement parts runout.

Good luck with 3D printer, I hope to join you in this new era in the not too distant future

I thought about building a REPRAP but I whimped out and got prebuilt BFB 3DTouch.

This technology is pretty cool - I've been using it for many years now - in fact my first 3D printed part was for one of the Lotus F1 (1993-ish) wind tunnel models I was working on where we printed a dummy engine complete with intake trumpets and integral airflow-measuring pitot tubes so we could flow air through the engine and exhaust to blow the diffuser. Things have moved on a pace since then...
This Solidoodle is probably the most affordable printer available right now at around $500 - the materials and resolution are pretty basic but it's an indication how affordable the machines could be.
At a professional level, it's now possible to 'print' parts directly in full-property metals such as titanium, aluminum, and steel. Resolution is also pretty good on these parts, comparable to good castings and way less expensive as the whole pattern-making and foundry processes are skipped.
For 3d scanning, there are a number of options - the NextEngine scanner 3D scanner is possibly the most affordable plug & play solution, and can be found used on Ebay etc for $1.5k to $2.5k used or $3k new.
It's possible to do 3D scanning for less with various programs scanning that use digital cameras / camcorders and some clever software.
3D printing is 'additive' rapid prototyping, an alternate is to use what are essentially desktop milling machines Roland RP machines , that can be used to carve parts from solid materials (usually plastics or waxes), again these can be found on Ebay for not too much dosh.
All fun stuff

Free CAD program
I spotted this Inventor Solid and Surface CAD on another favourite website this evening

Brian, I'm jealous of your lovely toys! I'll have a look at that software.

We just recieved a new Ultimaker S5 printer here at the University

As a test i thought that printing the infamous butterfly clip would be the proper thing to do.
I am printing it in "tough PLA"

Any thoughts of the pro's on the best material to print these parts with?
Tough PLA is the best of what i have available, but is recommended not to use over 60 degrees temperature.

Would Nylon or ABS be better? PP?
Tips welcome!

ABS has a better strength and heat range than PLA but nylon is strongest.

ABS can be "smoothed" in an acetone vapor, so can be fairly nice looking (less dots of material)

Link to article on smoothing: https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/acetone-vapor-smoothing

Thanks!

After consulting Ultimaker's website as well i think I will go for Nylon as well, also for the fexibility that is needed.

Also: I found a nasty error in the file for the butterfly clips! In one corrner ot the 'wings' there is a hollow space where it should not be. You can't see it on the printed product, but i have got several of these printed in nylon that all break in the same spot

Time to try my luck in Solidworks to see if I can fix this

It could be that when you convert the file to print it you aren't specifying solid.

No, the file(s) has several issues. Toby provided several updates to the original released file, but I lost track of them when he shut down his account on Shapeways.

I can send you his "repaired" version, but I think you might be using that already. A friend printed a few on an SLA printer and they had a problem where the "wings" attach to the body.

I didn't like them when I printed them on the DaVinci I have so just got some from Wayne since he had them made from the correct material.

The SLA printer makes a very nice windscreen corner.

I made a solid print with support structure, so that is not the problem.
During the print i can see gaps where there should be none, where the wings meet the body structure.

Thanks for the file John, I'll give it a go, but need to learn Solidworks first
(And order some Nylon)