Maintaining Ruby

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Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Wed 07.10.2015, 19:39

Hi All. call me sad if you wish, but after 6 months of elan ownership, i have named my car, Ruby, cos she's red - geddit! :-D :oops:

i doubt i'm the only one who's given their elan a name though.

i have mentioned in other posts that i've had a couple of niggles with the car, but nothing drastic thankfully. the first issue i had was the heater only blew cold air, but that was thankfully an easy fix - just re-fitted the vacuum pipe at the back of the plenum chamber.

i've also taken out the seats and carpets to treat surface rust near the sills, and paint on POR15.

One concern i had was that the bottom of the sump had a scuff or bump, so as soon as sumps were available, i bought one and had it modified as shown:

sump mod.jpg


i had a 3mm plate welded over the raised bump and then had it powder coated. hopefully this will give good protection, especially as sumps are becoming rarer than rocking horse poop.

i posted a few weeks ago that i was getting a clunking sound when i accelerated and then changed gear. so, whilst the sump was being changed, i had the turbo removed to be refurbished. it turns out the fault was a seized wastegate actuator.
i sent the turbo to http://www.crturbos.co.uk/ who re-manufactured the turbo. they fitted a new compressor wheel, kit and actuator rod, and ported out the wastegate to 20mm.
once returned, the garage said it looked like new. no pictures of it, but here is one with it fitted.

turbo remanufactured.jpg


i'm a believer in preventive maintenance, so having this work done has hopefully, greatly extended the life of my car.

many thanks to Gavin at unit4 in Burton on Trent http://www.unit4vehicleservices.co.uk/

and finally, here is a nice picture when i collected the car this morning.

nice line-up.jpg



more to follow........
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Thu 08.10.2015, 09:34

whilst the car was at the garage, i took the opportunity to fit a new heater valve, as on one occasion during June (when it was bloody cold one day), the heater stopped working, but then when i went out the next day it was working. rather than have the heater valve pack up during winter, one of these was fitted;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-760-740 ... 2359071ac5

for 20 quid, it was a no brainer.

ScanTech_heater_valve.JPG


my next job is to tweak the intermediate seals as i have a very tiny leak from them.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby rip » Thu 08.10.2015, 14:40

Paul Alexander wrote:my next job is to tweak the intermediate seals as i have a very tiny leak from them.

A 'very tiny leak' is good for an Elan roof. :-D
I fear that you may do more harm than good by trying to fix the fault, but I hope you can prove me wrong.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Enright » Fri 09.10.2015, 09:07

I always enjoy a project thread - it keeps everything in one place and come the day when you (heaven forbid) decide that it's time to sell up and move on (hopefully to another Elan!), you can point any prospective buyers in the direction of your thread to say "look how much this car was loved and what I treated it to".

If the seals only require a tiny tweak, I'd say put talcum powder on them first to help trace the exact point of the leak, then get some "Sikaflex 221 Black" (put that into the search box on eBay and you'll get loads of hits).
Put a pea-sized squirt of Sikaflex on the seal at the point of the leak, cover it in cling-flim, shut the door on it and leave it overnight to dry. The next day you should be able to just peel the cling-film off and the repair will be practically invisible.
Striking fear into the hearts of duplicate posts everywhere...! :P

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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Sat 17.10.2015, 12:51

Enright wrote:I always enjoy a project thread - it keeps everything in one place and come the day when you (heaven forbid) decide that it's time to sell up and move on (hopefully to another Elan!), you can point any prospective buyers in the direction of your thread to say "look how much this car was loved and what I treated it to".

If the seals only require a tiny tweak, I'd say put talcum powder on them first to help trace the exact point of the leak, then get some "Sikaflex 221 Black" (put that into the search box on eBay and you'll get loads of hits).
Put a pea-sized squirt of Sikaflex on the seal at the point of the leak, cover it in cling-flim, shut the door on it and leave it overnight to dry. The next day you should be able to just peel the cling-film off and the repair will be practically invisible.


i'll not be selling her neil - i'd sooner get divorced. :-D
silkaflex looks a good idea, however, next year (about February), i will have a new roof, header and intermediate seals fitted, as the roof has a small hole in it, as well as the rear window being scratched and yellowed and faded.

but looking at my seals, it looks like the intermediate seal on drivers side had shrunk (if thats possible).

seal before.jpg


there appears to be a gap at the rear join with the falling pillar seal, so i 'borrowed' from work a couple of 1.5 mm neoprene seals we use, and cut one to the shape of the profile of the seal and stuck it on today.

seal mod.jpg


i'll see later if its worked.

that's the good news, now the bad. i took the car to have the tracking and alignment done today, but the nuts have seized on the track rods, and the garage does not have the facilities to heat them up to free and grease them. the other local garage is closed, so it's booked in for next week. the tracking was at 6mm :shock: rather than 2 mm.

so i got home and thought i'd fit the new B post caps i bought from wayne in Bahrain - but i've left the bloody screws at work :evil: :evil: .

so, the next jobs to do are:

new B post caps
sort the tracking and alignment
and fit a new CAS sensor as the timing wanders all over the place.

more to follow, and some pictures well.

EDIT: almost forgot, but i took off the bleed valve on the turbo. not a fan of it to be honest, but the dump valve has grown on me, so i will leave that.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Candles » Sun 18.10.2015, 10:31

Unless you are in service mode, the timing will wander all over the place. You are setting service mode first, right?
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Sun 18.10.2015, 18:16

Candles wrote:Unless you are in service mode, the timing will wander all over the place. You are setting service mode first, right?


d'oh!! i forgot. thanks for the reminder.

on another note, my seal mod worked on the driver side, but i need to adjust the passenger side intermediate seal as it looks like it needs lowering a fraction.

good news though, my drain hole at the fuel filler is now clear and water drains away, plus i no longer have water leaking in through the seal just below the 'catch tray' below the windscreen on the passenger side, therefore now not having any water leak in from behind the glove box area.

also, the seals i cut and fitted in the corners of the header seal have worked - no water ingress down the A pillar seals. just one leak to sort out now.

a better day today, compared to yesterday. :D
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Wed 11.11.2015, 12:40

been a while since i posted anything, but i have done a couple of small jobs on my elan.

the tracking was out by a lot, so being as track rod ends are cheap, i bought two of these (delphi TA770), had them fitted and had the tracking set up to the correct position.

track rod end.JPG


they cost about £8.00 each plus £80.00 to have fitted and have the tracking done. bargain.

the other small job i have done is to fit my new B post caps i bought off ebay from wayne in bahrain, and use new fixings on both sides of the hinges. look quite nice now. there is nothing wrong with the old caps apart from drivers side one has a bit of overspray on it from when the roof stowage lid was re-sprayed.

so far, in the 9 months of ownership, as well as the above, the following work has been done to Ruby:

new alarm / immobiliser
new cam belt
new alternator belt
new P.A.S. belt
new cambelt idler and tensioner
new sump with new filter and oil change (obviously)
new heater valve
new B post caps
new stereo (i am now an expert on stereo wiring) :-D
new LED's in both window switches (a doddle to do)
seats and carpets removed - all surface rust removed from outriggers (very little of it to be honest), cleaned and treated with POR15.
treated seat bolts with copperslip
levelled bonnet stops

jobs to do:

fit new door seals from Jamie
fit new door window strips
fit jeemys rear brake hubs when required


if anyone wants any shiny new screws or scrivets etc to fit on their B caps, let me know. got loads at work.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Artaban » Wed 11.11.2015, 14:10

Paul,
Are the Delphi track rods an exact match to the OE items? I replaced mine recently and paid the extra for the OE ones in view of Dave's (and others) comments on the problem of alternatives. If they are then I'll grab a spare set as the OE ones are approx £80+VAT each though I see SJ's now have an alternative in for £17.50. Perhaps Steve's alternatives are the Delphi ones?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8904&p=307063&hilit=track+rods#p307063

Nice to see another Elan getting the cherished treatment it deserves.

Andy
My wife's just divorced me because I wouldn't open the car door for her!
To be fair I panicked and swam straight for the surface.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Wed 11.11.2015, 17:48

Artaban wrote:Paul,
Are the Delphi track rods an exact match to the OE items? I replaced mine recently and paid the extra for the OE ones in view of Dave's (and others) comments on the problem of alternatives. If they are then I'll grab a spare set as the OE ones are approx £80+VAT each though I see SJ's now have an alternative in for £17.50. Perhaps Steve's alternatives are the Delphi ones?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8904&p=307063&hilit=track+rods#p307063

Nice to see another Elan getting the cherished treatment it deserves.

Andy


hi andy,

i looked at the wikilec page for the alternative track rod ends an dthe TA770 is at top of list:

http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Track_rod_ends

plus this post by geoff smith:

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=13047&p=177819&hilit=ta770#p177819

the garage said there were no issues as i asked them to tell me if there were, and the tracking went ok. plus it drives better now (as before, the steering was a bit heavier).

yes, i do like my elan and spending time money and effort on it. after wanting one for years and years, i wasn't going to have one just to "scratch that itch". mine is for keeps.

it was either an elan, or wine, women and song. guess which one my wife picked. :-D

and as its my birthday next week, the wife is buying me a low profile trolley jack. no more pants or socks for me. :-D
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Sat 06.02.2016, 19:16

just a quick note to say my car passed its MOT with no advisories :D , and now it's ready to have a new roof and seal kit fitted next week (m100hoods).

once the weather gets better, i can then start on a few little jobs that need doing - first one is to fit new rubber seal strips along the door where the window is.

oh, and a bit of advice here - when you leave your car for a few days without starting it, make sure you close the doors fully, as i had to fit a new battery on 2nd January, as the old one drained and was beyond recovering.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Sat 19.03.2016, 17:01

as promised elsewhere, here are some before and after pictures of the new roof and seals fitted by m100hoods.

old header seal
old header seal..jpg

old webbing
old webbing and frame..jpg

old roof has a small hole
old roof with hole..jpg

old hood coming away from frame
old hood..jpg


new webbing
inside webbing..jpg

drivers side rear
drivers side rear..jpg

rear window..jpg

rear close up..jpg

passenger side close up..jpg

new roof passenger side..jpg
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Sat 19.03.2016, 17:18

new roof side..jpg

new roof above..jpg



i'm very pleased with the work done. cost wise, well, it was a lot, the kit was £1,150.00, having the hood frame removed, stripped back to bare frame, and powdercoated cost £200.00, labour was £575.00.
i did source a new rear deck frame and mark fitted this for me.

my next job is to remove drivers door mirror to adjust the door mirror seal as it is pushing on the A pillar seal, and this is allowing a few drops of rain through.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby andys2cars » Tue 22.03.2016, 23:32

Hi Paul, hood looks really good! so was it £1150.00 total, or plus fitting etc? cheers Andy
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Candles » Wed 23.03.2016, 06:48

It looks amazing! Seeing a new, clear rear window is quite eye-opening!
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Rusty Wishbone » Wed 23.03.2016, 23:20

Looks fabulous! And you will be able to see back through the rear window too.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Thu 24.03.2016, 13:59

hi guys. thanks for the car compliments. yes it looks great, and the rear window is now like looking through glass.

andy, the kit cost was 1150 but the labour was extra. labour cost varies slightly depending on what wants doing, but i am pleased with the results.

now, ive got to sell a kidney to pay for it all. :-D
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Artaban » Thu 24.03.2016, 17:26

Looks really nice. Personally I'm hoping for one of those summers when I can just pull back my hood and let the sun get on my skin :oops:

What ..what ..its a perfectly innocent remark.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Paul Alexander » Mon 06.06.2016, 21:17

been a while since i did any work on the car, but once i'd got holidays and workloads out of the way, i thought whilst i am waiting for mark at m100hoods to come and make couple of adjustments to the new hood, i thought i'd rectify a loose and rattly passenger window and fit the new door trim seal i've has a while (bought a set from PNM Engineering)

http://pnmengineering.com/lotus-bodywork.html

stripping the door was easy thanks to the guide on here and tobys video on youtube (search for m100 restoration), and yes, i did break the orange clip on the door escutcheon (good job i have a couple of spares).

door stripped.jpg


after a quick inspection, i found the window guide next to rear bobbin stop, was very loose and the front lower guide on the window was loose.

loose guide.jpg


everything was going smoothly up to removing the butterfly clip - yes it broke, but i've got two i bought from shapeways (toby again) for £.739 each.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/2YZ633 ... d=59313039

once the window was free, sliding it up and getting it out of the channels went easier than i expected. you can see the offending loose guide here.

loose guider.jpg


now, with the window out i could get to the screws holding in the door seal. 6 came out ok, 4 are rusted solid, so will have to drill out later.

rusted screws.jpg



so, tomorrow i have to clean the window, clean all grease off the guides, refit the loose guide and threadlock it, then use vaseline on the guides, plus drill out the screws.


i have a question though, does the butterfly clip just clip onto the slider and is it easy to remove, plus does the plastic guide the butterfly clip attaches to, sit in the channel loosely or does it clip in to the channel?

cheers for any help given.
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Re: Maintaining Ruby

Postby Tuga2112 » Mon 06.06.2016, 21:25

I had the same problem with the window. but none of my drill bits was thin and long enough to reach and drill through the old rusty screw.

do you have some special longer drill bits that i never seen on sale or did i miss some cruxial part of the job when i did mine ?
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