Clam replacement

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Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Mon 12.10.2015, 19:13

Hi everyone..
I'm about to change my clam shell this winter and do the cam belt aswell, then hopefully give the car a full respray, depending how much money I can hide from the wife!
Is there any other work which should be done, and probably need doing with the clam shell off. And anything I should look out for. Reasons for shell replacement is the original one had some wing damage by the previous owner, which was repaired ok, but crazing is starting to take over. Also my elan is white, should I stick to the original Monaco white with the clear coat on top or should I look for a better whiter than white effect?
Ideas or advise very welcome. I live near cardigan west wales, so physical help would be scarce, even though I have noticed another red elan appear just down the road. Might have to knock on his door and introduce myself.
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby dapinky » Mon 12.10.2015, 19:42

Hmmm, there's loads of things you may decide need doing whilst you've got the clam off - but I'll let you think about them whilst you're doing it!

The process is simple and straightforward (as per the Workshop Manual), but having done it myself, I can add the following words of (not real) wisdom....

The headlamp motors need to be removed, and the bolts for these are removed with a small (1/4" drive ratchet, 8mm socket) bolt which is withdrawn into the wheelarch - so the liners need to be removed (which they need to do anyway to get to the clam to 'A' post nuts/spacers/bolts) - it is worth having a new set of fasteners (for the liners) on hand for replacement in Stainless Steel (if you haven't already replaced them)... it is a good time to inspect and/or replace the 3 plastic 'pills' inside each motor whilst they're off the car.

When the whole lot (clam shell fixings) have been undone it should easily lift away from the car - if it doesn't, check that you haven't missed one (easilly done - from experience) - the only other thing holding it in place is a thin bead of sikaflex at the bulkhead - it needs carefull cutting through with a Stanley knife.

When lifting it from the car, an assistant is invaluable (more so when replacing it after painting!!!!!) - otherwise it can be easy to catch it on the suspension tops and/or twist it and cause cracking.

ALWAYS observe/record how many shims you have in various locations (mainly between crash structure and clam) - it'll save a lot of trial and error on refitting.

Whilst it is off, have a good look at the M6 bighead bolts which come up from underneath (so can't be got at with it all back together - but some access is possible with the front bumper removed), and attach the bottom of the headlamp hinge mechanism - mine had rusted badly, so i replaced them with new stainless items whilst it was off the car - you can just use 'normal' bolts, but you will need to be able to hold the end still to do the nut up, so the proper 'captive' items are worthwhile - likewise the captive cage nuts which the bonet adjustment bumpers fit into.

Basically, i'd advise swapping every nut,bolt and fastening with Stainless whilst you're doing the job - it'll look so much neater in a newly painted car anyway :wink:

You'll no doubt find that so many other bits are really easy to get at with the clamshell off the car, and will be removing and cleaning all sorts.... just remember to replace them before fitting the clam, or they may not be so accessible afterwards (Charge cooler, air intake etc springs to mind).

Changing the belts/waterpump etc is sooooo much easier with the clam removed, I'd even consider whipping it off to change them in the future (especially with new nuts and bolts which come undone easily!).
Dave

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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Mon 12.10.2015, 20:20

Should I buy all required parts for the water pump, belts for cam etc from rock auto. I've seen previous threads on what to buy.. Is this a safe option.
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby dapinky » Mon 12.10.2015, 20:40

I have used Rock for many orders over the past 9 years and only once has it gone wrong (one water pump had the wrong pulley on it - not their fault, down to the supplier), always great service and reliable......

.... but, as ever, the final choice is yours alone (others prefer the 'safety' of ordering from SJs, Paul Matty, Lotus or somewhere else - at a price premium, but they consider it worthwhile for peace of mind).
Dave

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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Rambo » Mon 12.10.2015, 22:10

Go with RockAuto and save yourself £££ ;-)
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Rambo » Mon 12.10.2015, 22:11

Go with RockAuto and save yourself £££ ;-)

PS I'm sure SJS probably source their parts from RA anyway ;-)
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby chrisP » Tue 13.10.2015, 12:14

When you lift the clam off, be careful as there is some wiring and the bonnet release cable running and attached underneath. It is easier to lift the clam off by yourself and have some one check for connections as you do it (that way you can keep flexing to a minium) As for other things to do, it depends on the rust you find. When I removed mine I had the entire front structure media blasted and galvanised, a new radiator and fans fitted and then thought I may as well have the intercooler remade.... I think that it is called project creep!!!

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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Tue 20.10.2015, 23:15

Quick update. Just like to say, rock auto are extremely quick. Ordered last Wednesday and they have arrived already. Not even a full week. All arrived in perfect condition and looking great. Now to get the clam off and start sanding the whole car down..
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Thu 26.10.2017, 18:05

How time flies. Only just managed to get back on the car. Bumper off and clamshell off too. Fairly easy job, except for a few rusted bolts. Now the fun part of stripping and replacing nuts bolts etc. Got a bucket of bags all labelled. Next thing to do is I need to replace the radiator. Works fine, not sure how as the honeycomb parts are all fallen apart and corroded.
And I need the lower assay bracket for the radiator. Slightly corroded too.
What recommendations are there for a new radiator and does anyone have a lower assay bracket for sale.
Cheers. I’ll try and post more.
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Saltire » Thu 26.10.2017, 19:08

Slightly different I know, but CoolExperts in Nottingham were great for my oil cooler, and they do water radiators (and expansion tanks) too. They are on eBay and also on here (coolexperts) and also have a website.
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby clemo » Thu 23.11.2017, 16:15

Good luck with your winter tinkering .
I have just replaced my rad via coolexpert . Nice tidy item .
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby HJ2 » Thu 23.11.2017, 19:08

I'm in the same bio-rythm then... My Coolex rad (and intercooler) are waiting to be installed as wel :lol:
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Simon_P » Fri 24.11.2017, 03:39

And there starts the project creep.

Stick to the original colors. Elans are beginning to be looked at as classic cars. A nonstandard colour is likely to be considered worth less.

Make sure that the paint shop uses the amount of flex additive as specified in the manual. Then you won't get stone chips.

Change the oil cooler pipes - if they are original they are not OK
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Sat 25.11.2017, 23:04

Why change the oil cooler pipes. Haven’t looked yet. What’s wrong if they were originals?
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Simon_P » Sun 26.11.2017, 07:22

The rubber hose ages which makes it shrink. There is no sign of anything wrong until the hose comes off the fitting and empties the oil on the floor - Immediate loss of oil pressure and all oil.

There are several tales of woe on here.

Lotus also changed the design - The original type have a bulbous swage and the later type have a cylindrical swage ie parallel sided.
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Danevansgolf » Thu 30.11.2017, 13:18

Are these the original oil cooler pipes, or are they the later version
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Re: Clam replacement

Postby Rice crispy » Sat 02.12.2017, 01:18

They look original to me.
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