Step by Silky Step

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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Jamie N » Mon 10.09.2018, 20:33

Nice work there Ron, the seats look really good, you must have felt well chuffed after fitting those. ;-)
Monaco S2 #406

https://youtu.be/MGiyiIFjUew Rubbery stuff.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Tue 11.09.2018, 00:04

Thanks Rambo and Jamie,

Fitting the seats was more work than expected TBH, but I think it was worth it in the end.
Everyone who's tried them so far has remarked on how supportive and comfy they are.
My original SE seats weren't in bad nick but I needed something with a little more support for my 18st bulk.

Next on the list: Fitting a Nardi Steering wheel from an Impreza using the original SE Boss.
I'm not a fan of the bumps on the rim of the S2 Nardi wheels and these don't have them.
Impreza Nardi sm.jpg
Impreza Nardi sm.jpg (20.68 KiB) Viewed 170533 times

Resembles an S2 wheel, same 365mm diameter, more common and so much cheaper!
For some reason they used the Momo boss pattern so it'll need an adapter.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Bryan M » Sun 23.09.2018, 11:00

RonR wrote:Another small update:

Still need to fit the seat heater switches somewhere, possibly in the centre console cubby box?
]

Cheers,
Ron


I found one of these which I am hoping will fit in one of the 2 blanks on the dash will work the heated seats for the RX7 seats when I get round to putting them in - hopefully will look facotry

http://www.opel-classicparts.de/schalter-116561.html
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby dapinky » Sun 23.09.2018, 12:23

Not sure about the 'double' switch shown, but certainly the Senator 'single switches' are a 'contact touch' switch (like a bell-push) as opposed to a 'click on/click off' switch.

That said, it will fit and look OE, but will need some electronic control of the seat heaters.... can't see that it would be at all hard (for someone who knows what they're doing) to build a small timer circuit to allow the seat heaters to be on for 5 minutes every time you touch the switch.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Fredjohn » Sun 23.09.2018, 13:02

The heated seat kit I bought included variable heat switches, which were in the form of volume controls, 0-5. Off is 0, with an on/off light behind the numbers.

It is a small double switch, which fitted neatly into the available aircon switch slot, once I'd removed the blank and the unused supply socket behind the blank.

Heating pads work really well and are much appreciated by not just me but more importantly by Grace!!
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Bryan M » Sun 23.09.2018, 15:24

dapinky wrote:Not sure about the 'double' switch shown, but certainly the Senator 'single switches' are a 'contact touch' switch (like a bell-push) as opposed to a 'click on/click off' switch.

That said, it will fit and look OE, but will need some electronic control of the seat heaters.... can't see that it would be at all hard (for someone who knows what they're doing) to build a small timer circuit to allow the seat heaters to be on for 5 minutes every time you touch the switch.


If they work like the switch action when I try it in the packet then the double will be click on/off switch ie there is a definitive click on/off with the switch - it has on;t taken me 18 months to get some brackets welded up to make RX8 seats fit into the Elan - so on that rate of progress i will be able to tell you in another couple of years :)
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Enright » Thu 27.09.2018, 14:16

Ron,

If I'm reading your project list correctly, then I notice you fitted a 1499 S2 Everest to the ECU that you bought from the spares list.
Do you still have the SE ECU & Everest that you removed?
If so, I know of someone who is looking for an ECU, so you might be able to recoup some of your costs.
I also really like the lower door trim panels, and want to do similar.

Dave,

I realise you detailed the process above, but did you ever put any of this in a thread for making yours? I'd like to source similar materials (wood, clips, alcantara and backing foam), so if you have any links it would be much appreciated.
Striking fear into the hearts of duplicate posts everywhere...! :P

BCingU,
Neil ;-)
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby dapinky » Thu 27.09.2018, 15:24

Neil,

I never did a full write-up as I thought is sort of speaks for itself....

.... I searched the garage for parts :D

The wood panel is simply a piece of 1/8" hardboard (but due to the modern foreign way of doing things, you'd probably have to buy 3mm these days!) - I had an off-cut from when I floored my bathroom, so used that.

To waterproof it, I used normal fibreglass resin (which I had left over from when I made the new door inserts behind the armrest bit) and simply brushed it all the way round it (particularly the edges).

The firtree fasteners were bought from ebay - can't remember what they cost me now, but I would think they would be one of the 99p for half a dozen type listings.

The backing foam was some packaging material that something else was wrapped in...... it is something that you should be able to locate easily enough - any old upholstry type retailer should sell it (craft shop? haberdashers? ). Any spongy type sheet stuff will do the job.

The alcantara was from ebay, but again, should be available from a number of places.

Then it was all held together with spray adhesive.

The only bits which need a bit of extra attention is finding a suitable place to drill through the doorcard for the firtrees - you don't want to hit any wires or bits of the window winder system.

The other bit, is to ensure that you fit the firtees to the wood board before adding the foam - that way, once the foam is glued on, there will be a slight bump over the head of the trees which you can pare down with a sharp hobby knife to make it flat, and then glue on the alcantara, simply folding it over the back and glueing it down (you will need to make a series of wedge shaped cuts out of the material at the corners to ensure that it doesn't make it too thick and hold the panel out too far when fitted - I think i went a bit overboad with mine, as they are in a recessed panel anyway, so it isn't as important as when i did the arm bits).
Dave

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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Thu 27.09.2018, 21:43

Neil,
The trim panels were a necessity as the old carpet was in a state of advanced disintegration long before I started working on the doors.
Like Dave I had some ply and varnish lying around, then sourced the rest from t'internet.

I did indeed remove an SE ECU and Everest chip.
The chip was sent back to Alan for an upgrade to 1499 then went back into the SE ECU.
This enables the swap from standard S2 to Everest S2 without faffing around with Memcals and chip adapters. (Yes I know - I should have got the switcher version)
I wanted to keep the old ECU for a while, just in case 24 years of sitting on a shelf in a warehouse disagreed with the 'new' one.

P.S. Chuffin 'Eck, just saw the price DVB are asking for an SE ECU - £822!
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Enright » Fri 28.09.2018, 13:53

Thanks Dave, that's a great little guide. Well worth an entry in the Wiki.

I fancy doing this, although when I am likely to get round to it is anyone's guess as there are a lot of higher priority jobs to knock down first.
The problem can be quality of materials - you can't really see just how good the stuff is on eBay, or if it will stay colour-fast long term. And just because you pay more, it doesn't mean you get supplied with better. Last thing I'd want to do is spend hours on something that stands out like a sore Benk (er, I mean thumb)!

I've just stumbled across Joao's thread here, and must say his look probably the best I've seen. I love the way the theme continues down from the elbow recess to the lower panel. Being as I have cars with red stripe interiors I was originally thinking of solid red alcantara-covered panels to look similar to the ones in John's post (a couple down from Joao's pics), but now that I've seen his I wonder if I might even be able to cannibalise some old seats. The construction would be the same - it's just a matter of what I cover them with...

Thanks also for getting back to me Ron.

I totally sympathise with wanting to hold onto your valuable spares, especially when they're THAT valuable! I paid only slightly more than that for a previous ECU, and got the entire rest of the car thrown-in with it! This is why I was happy to lend one to Simon to get his car running properly, but I didn't want to sell it to him in case I needed something to fall back on.
There IS one up for auction on the Bay at present that he's watching - I only hope that some speculator doesn't snipe it for the sake of making a profit out of us.
Anyone would think that these breakers monitor our "parts required" posts and then advertise those exact items for as much as they think they can get away with... :evil:
Striking fear into the hearts of duplicate posts everywhere...! :P

BCingU,
Neil ;-)
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby cliff » Wed 24.10.2018, 17:01

Looks great Ron, I know how much work it takes. I like the idea of the neoprene sheet around the heater intake, I replaced mine a while ago, and the Porsche seats really suit the car.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby cliff » Wed 24.10.2018, 17:37

One other thing, having just done it, the head gasket is not an easy job. There is a video on you tube showing how to replace the cam belt, it is very useful, although I would go for the long bar and turning the engine over method of loosening the crank pulley bolt first.

I have a piper down pipe which makes getting the turbo off really easy, this saves quite a bit of weight when lifting the head off. I also drained and disconnected the power steering pump to get it out of the way as far as possible, the reservoir has to come out for access anyway. I am lucky enough to have AC fitted so the compressor bracket is perfect for supporting the engine rather than the sump. Possibly a bracket could be rigged to go in that position as the bolt holes should be there on the block.

Ratchet ring spanners, 10, 12, 13, 14 & 17 all come in useful and can save some swearing.

Once the engine mounting bolts are loosened, I used the short hex key from the kit taped to a 10mm ratchet ring spanner to get the 4 bolts out, still not easy but doable. To put them back, I used pointed mole grips and a screwdriver to get the harder ones in the holes then the ratchet ring trick again. Maybe I just need smaller hands!

The head and intake manifold are not too heavy but unwieldy, I used an engine hoist to put it back on the engine so the gasket would not get damaged.

As I read on here once, refitting is the same as removal but you swear in different places!

Useful Info:

http://lotuselancentral.com/repair/pdf/ ... Change.pdf

http://wikilec.com/view/Cambelt-change

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osBhwSw3VBk

Good luck
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Thu 25.10.2018, 16:26

Thanks for the tips Cliff,

I'm using my enforced inaction (6 weeks recovery from an operation last week) to put together the parts for the Head Gasket swap plus some other items.
So far I have a Full gasket set, Lotus Head gasket, Cam, alternator and PS Belts, Water Pump and Tensioner, Alternator bearings, CAS bearing and a set of Samco hoses on order.
Once I'm sure the Head gasket's OK the Everest chip will go back in. :-D

I'm also toying with the idea of removing the sump to clear out the oil pick-up, but then I might as well take the engine out completely and renew the clutch and intermediate drive shaft bearing, refurbish the starter motor, clean up and paint the engine bay, renew the Raft bushes, etc etc.........

Oh dear - I seem to be developing "Project Creep".
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby cliff » Fri 26.10.2018, 23:39

There is no rehab for project creep, I have a huge problem with it. :D

I have done the head and belts on and off the car, if you are going to do the clutch and all the other work, you might as well pull the engine, it's much easier. If you go that way, I would recomend that you remove the prongeron, it makes access to the alternator and rear engine mount a lot easier.

My alternator was quite new but I had the starter motor overhauled while the engine was out, just in case.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby simonrush » Fri 02.11.2018, 19:23

RonR wrote:Thanks for the tips Cliff,

I'm using my enforced inaction (6 weeks recovery from an operation last week) to put together the parts for the Head Gasket swap plus some other items.
So far I have a Full gasket set, Lotus Head gasket, Cam, alternator and PS Belts, Water Pump and Tensioner, Alternator bearings, CAS bearing and a set of Samco hoses on order.
Once I'm sure the Head gasket's OK the Everest chip will go back in. :-D

I'm also toying with the idea of removing the sump to clear out the oil pick-up, but then I might as well take the engine out completely and renew the clutch and intermediate drive shaft bearing, refurbish the starter motor, clean up and paint the engine bay, renew the Raft bushes, etc etc.........

Oh dear - I seem to be developing "Project Creep".


I have water and air pipes from samco. I had one problem here's a photo showing the pipe supplied by samco and my original lotus pipe in black below. According to samco they used lotus specs. The part of my lotus is 10-20mm longer, the garage couldn't fit because you can get a hose clip on it! They are adament it's the right size. My guys replaced with an alternative for now. If anyone is supplied something different please let me know or if you experience the same issue please let me know, maybe if it's common we have more reason to complain and get the right part provided.
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Samco pipe that is too short to fit my car.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Fri 02.11.2018, 21:28

Thanks Simon,
The supplier tells me my Samco hoses will arrive in a week or so.
I'm only getting the coolant hoses - set TCS330C - for SE, and the hose in your picture looks like it's the Intercooler outlet, which I think is part of the TCS563 kit.
Here's a photo I got from Amber Performance's website:
TCS563.jpg

The one in the photo does look much more like the original Lotus one, and your looks to be shorter.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Sat 03.11.2018, 01:30

Another small update:
Sept '18:
Fitted Impreza Nardi steering wheel after refurbishing the leather:
Impreza Nardi.jpg

The dish of the wheel plus the Momo to Nardi adapter bring it just a little too near to the driver, so I'm looking for a shorter boss to suit.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby John_W » Sat 03.11.2018, 18:28

Looks nice, though! :-D
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby RonR » Mon 05.11.2018, 14:55

Porsche seats - Some more detail:

My Porsche seats came from a 2003 996, the seller removed them as he was fitting "sports" seats, so they were in pretty good condition. They differ from the older pure 911 seats, and are more like the ones used on the Boxster. They have electric recline but manual height and fore/aft adjustment.

I did see an improvement in leg room, the seats can now slide back enough to touch the rear speaker boxes, and they recline enough to touch the rear bulkhead. As I'm 5'9" the runners were kept roughly the same height as the originals, which meant using shorter 10 and 15mm spacers below the 10mm thick ally brackets.

The seats were dismantled, small repairs made to the foam, Hessian reinforcement added under the squabs, then seat heaters were fitted:
Squab Heater Fitting.jpg

The porsche runners were used with brackets made to suit, but there's a gas strut for height adjustment (green) which got in the way of the rear bracket when the seats were at their lowest. This was overcome by making 3-part rear brackets, the centre section fitting under the 2 outer sections - I forgot to take photos of those, but if I ever remove the seats I'll take some snaps.
The front mounting hole tabs (blue) were flattened and re-drilled, and the spring mount (red) moved to the new front bracket.

Runner Changes.jpg


My seats didn't come with seat belt receptacles so the Lotus ones were drilled out slightly to suit. I'm not sure if the Lotus belts would have worked with the porsche ones anyway.
In the battery compartment a new battery feed was plumbed in to a new fuse and relay block to supply the recliner motors and seat heaters, and the wiring fed though to the centre console.
I really must get around to fitting the seat heater switches before winter comes along.
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Re: Step by Silky Step

Postby Rambo » Mon 05.11.2018, 21:42

Good job Ron :smt023
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