Installation of windstop

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Installation of windstop

Postby paulwatkins » Wed 21.03.2007, 21:01

I have just installed an Oris windstop that I bought off Gazza and collected from him at Donington.

The windstop is designed to be fitted to a Mazda MX-5 :smt078 but with a little bit of handy work can be adapted to fit the Elan.

After installation, I went on a test run to try it out. It certainly reduces the turbulance in the cabin and also reduces wind noise.

I will try to explain how I installed it. I hope it will be of use to someone else who is considering installing one of these windstops.

You will need to purchase:
1. a length (you will need about 400mm) of 8mm stainless steel threaded bar.
2. 4no domed nuts, 4no nyloc nuts and 6no normal nuts and washers to suit.
3. short length of 8mm ID black fuel hose.
4. Suitable fixings (6mm dia) for T-brackets.

Method.
1. Remove the carpet from the roof storage area by removing the screws along the back face of the plastic trim that runs along the top of the bulkhead.
2. Position the t-bracket upto the front edge of the plastic trim. You can just about feel it through the carpet. See pic. Use the t-bracket as a stencil and cut around to remove the carpet.
3. When the carpet is removed, it will reveal a plastic trim fixing. Remove this so that the bracket sits on the flat surface. Mark the hole locations onto the plastic trim.
4. Use a 6mm drill to drill all the way through the bulkhead into the roof storage area, piercing the additional thin plastic liner (you'll see what I mean). Take care when doing this, as when I had finished I discovered that there is a cable running within the recess. Luckily, I had avoided it at each location! phew!
5. Use a 20mm hole cutter to open up the hole on the thin plastic liner so that you can place washers and nuts onto the bracket fixings.
6. Fix the t-brackets to the bulkhead.
7. Refit the carpet to the roof storage area by reversing the process to remove!
8. Cut 2 lengths of threaded bar 200mm each. And rough assemble the bracket spacer using the domed nuts on one end, and the normal nuts along the length.
9. Place the windstop into the t-brackets and adjust the nuts so that the windstop is located centrally within the cabin. Take time to do this; measuring both sides to get it right. Tighten the nuts when you are happy with the position.
10. Remove the windstop from the car and cut off the excess length of threaded bar.
11. Reassemble the bracket spacer, but using the fuel hose, domed nuts and nyloc nuts as shown in the pic.
12. Reinsert into the t-brackets and tighten all the nuts with the windstop in an upright position.


With the windstop installed I am still able to raise and lower the roof (with some care) without fouling things up!
I am stil able to position the seat all the way back, however the tilt of the seat is reduced slightly. In my normal driving position, this is not an issue.
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Postby theelanman » Wed 21.03.2007, 21:57

:goodposting:
I’m normally not a praying man, but if you’re up there, please save me, Superman.
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Postby Enright » Wed 21.03.2007, 23:27

Very neat installation Paul. Up to your usual high standards.
I'm sure Larisa will be very appreciative.

I particularly like the domed nuts and the fuel tubing to hide the ugly screw threads. May have to do the same to mine.
Striking fear into the hearts of duplicate posts everywhere...! :P

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Postby Gary » Thu 22.03.2007, 09:07

If you bend the brackets and mount on the curve behind the seats you don't need any other parts than supplied
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Postby paulwatkins » Thu 22.03.2007, 09:59

Gary wrote:If you bend the brackets and mount on the curve behind the seats you don't need any other parts than supplied


Gary, When doing it this way, can you get to the other side of the car structure to fix nuts and washers onto the bolts going through the t-brackets?

Or did you use self tappers into the fibre glass?

Paul
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Postby Gary » Thu 22.03.2007, 19:22

Used self tappers for both mine, and didn't remove any carpet etc.
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Postby paulwatkins » Fri 23.03.2007, 08:38

Gary wrote:Used self tappers for both mine....


I got to be honest Gary, but I dont think I would of been entirely happy just using self tappers into fibre glass. I'm far happier with the nut, bolt and washers going through the bulkhead.

I believe on the mx-5 you would be self-tapping into metal, which is fine. But into fibre glass, I'm not too sure. But then again, I dont suppose you've had any problems with this way.
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Postby GeoffSmith » Fri 23.03.2007, 10:10

paulwatkins wrote:But then again, I dont suppose you've had any problems with this way.

I believe that Gary has got draughtproofer on his garage doors. :wink:
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Postby Gary » Fri 23.03.2007, 18:50

Cheeky git Geoff !!

I've had the one on my S2 for about 6K (so a lot of years !) and not had a problem.
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Postby Paul.P » Fri 23.03.2007, 19:37

Mine was fixed same as Gary's, but as i need my seat back as far as possible, i had to adapt the brkts, havn't had any probs with the self tappers, but can see that nuts on threaded bar will be superior, may have a look at that if i encounter any problems in the future ?
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Postby GeoffSmith » Fri 23.03.2007, 20:06

Gary wrote:Cheeky git Geoff !!


:lol: Sorry Gary. Couldn't resist it. :smt008
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Postby Gazza » Mon 26.03.2007, 16:19

Paul

Glad you are happy with it. I can't believe you have fitted it already and done a good job at that, I kept it in the box for about a year.

Must get those rollbars fitted :roll:

Any luck with those speakers and amp yet?

Gary
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Postby paulwatkins » Mon 26.03.2007, 19:54

Gazza wrote:Any luck with those speakers and amp yet?


Thats next on the list! It might take a while to get it finished though. I want to make sure the enclosures are spot on.

Cheers, Paul
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Postby surfboardfiller » Fri 30.03.2007, 21:36

Paul, I'm about to fit this oris windstop (have modified the brackets). I was wondering why you have mounted the brackets so close together, is there something in the way of mounting them closer to the B posts?

Cheers,

Phil
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Postby paulwatkins » Fri 30.03.2007, 23:41

I mounted them right to the vertical edge of the plastic trim to give me a flat, even surface to fix through. You could move them out a bit further I suppose, but you would have to place a spacer behind the bracket - the same thickness as the plastic trim. Or form a sort of dog-leg in the bracket.

When you start going out further than this position, you start approaching the curved section. The brackets could be formed to suit this curve, but then I think you could only use self tappers as you cant access behind the panel onto which they are mounted.

I hope this makes sense Phil
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Postby Gary » Sat 31.03.2007, 06:51

I've used both approaches on my cars. One I've got them on the flat bit with the extended brackets, the other has them one the curve, using the standard brackets which I bent.

Franckly I think the bent method is probably best (and cheaper too).

I have posted pics before and can again if required
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Postby surfboardfiller » Sat 31.03.2007, 17:14

Yes that all makes sense, I'll have to take the trim panel off to see if I can avoid punching a hole through it, although my new brackets have hoops on them that sit snugly over the top of the bulkhead; so the screws/bolts don't take so much strain.

Yet another project to fnish whilst babysitting! :shock:
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Postby Dico » Sat 31.03.2007, 17:24

surferphil wrote:
Yet another project to fnish whilst babysitting! :shock:


Its impossible mate, i've given up :roll:
I have a full day to myself next weekend to do Elan things but I bet it P!sses down! :evil:
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Postby Paul.P » Sat 31.03.2007, 17:42

Dico wrote:I have a full day to myself next weekend to do Elan things but I bet it P!sses down! :evil:


Yep, easter weekend forecast, wet over whole of country, but especially NW England :cry:
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Postby Steve A » Thu 21.02.2008, 00:14

:D Where do you get the Oris wind stop from ? I've seen the "classic" featured on the mx5.co.uk for £99, the picture given on the site is different to the one shown fitted by Paul at the top of the page, "I want that one" :?
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