PiperRS 2.25" or 2.5" Exhaust for all M100s

[ailwyn]

The general rule seems to be to expand the opening to 20mm

Ailwyn

[fedelemaire]

Despite the long minutes or hours I spent on the forum and Wiki searching for pictures or informations on how to proceed to port the wastegate, I'm sorry I couldn't find any "How to" guide. Anyone could help with picture or info?

Or maybe that's my English understanding which is too bad!

Fred

[ailwyn]

Fred,

You need to remove the turbo from the car, at the exhaust side of the turbo you'll see the wastegate.

Remove the clip from the actuator arm (the silver bar on the outside of the turbo) so the wastegate can be opened easily (a little flap covering one of the exhaust holes on the turbo).

You can either:
Remove the exhaust side of the turbo
-or-
Stuff the exhaust side of the turbo so no bits can fall back into the turbo

Then grind the hole (covered by the flap) out to 20mm diameter.

Reassemble.

Points to note:
You WILL snap the bolts on the turbo/downpipe joint - these will most likely need to be drilled out.
You WILL need heat if you intend to seperate the turbo.
This IS a BITCH of a job
It's a job that CAN be done (even by me)

[PiperRS]

I got to say this is a really usefull and friendly forum

Might go buy an Elan now, lol

[chris.t]

OK my 2.25" Piper has been installed and I thought I would do a small report.

I did not do the installation myself but the guy that fitted it said that fitting was straight forward. The only areas of contention are that the centre section is quite close to the underside of the car. The end of the back box is touching the bodywork where the rear bumper section returns back under the car (see photos). It is only just touching and I have said that as things wear in I will monitor it to see that no damage is done. I suspect that there will be a little rubbing but it can't be seen so I’m not particularly worried. I guess this is one of the joys of having a handmade car. I told the guy that fitted the pipe there was a 2.5" option and he could not see how it would have gone in on my car. I take it that the 2.5" must be a slightly different in design.

Now onto the important bit. Performance is markedly improved. This is not only under boost conditions but also on non boost. I am quite surprised and either highlights how good this exhaust is or how bad my old OEM one was. On booting it the boost gauge hits the stop and so overboost I guess is present but as I have the BBR kit no EML. However I will be looking into this to make sure that I am not putting additional strain on the turbo and will be amending appropriately.

The noise of the exhaust at tick over is as per my OEM exhaust. Driving though there is a deep drone but not obtrusive in my opinion. Let’s put it this way, I was worried that I should have gone for the pre silencer but frankly for me it doesn't need it. Accelerate, and between 3-4k revs you get a deep exhaust note. Return to cruising and the noise drops off to normal levels. Motorway cruising is not going to be a chore which was another worry. So from what I can see you get the best of both worlds cos when you want to put your foot down you get the sports exhaust noise and then when you want to cruise on the motorway you don't have to turn the stereo up. Incidentally these observations were done with the roof up with windows closed.

Since fitting and running the tailpipe which was nicely centered it has moved over to the right a bit (see photos) but when everything has bedded in I’ll get that adjusted.

In summary, my initial thoughts are very positive. For the GB price it’s a fantastic bargain (the rear OEM box was £170 ex vat and fitting 5 years ago!!!!). The quality is very high and it has ticked all of my boxes. Its a big from me. Thanks Garry I think you'll be getting a few more order for this one!











Must clean under the car

[PiperRS]

Excellent write up their Chris. Does our product proud.

As you said you tailpipe has settled to the left a little. Once it has settled a little further when you re adjust it this will move the silencer away from your bumper also We only had about 2mm of clearance when we fitted it to Bills car, so it is tight

Yes the 2.5" system does take a slightly different line and as you said, it is a much tighter fit.

We have spent many years developing the internals of our silencers to give the best balance of a nice sporty note yet quiet when cruising.

Glad you like it

We have made some more for stock so if anyone else needs one, just give me a call.

If anyone here frequents any other forums where a custom exhaust needs to be made, then please let me know and i will be happy to work with them.

[fedelemaire]

Chris,

I fully agree with your comments, only difference is: my Piper exhaust does NOT touch the rear bumper. It's just adjustment I think. And actually, I think my tail pipe is a little bit more centered in the hole.

[fedelemaire]

Fred,

You need to remove the turbo from the car, at the exhaust side of the turbo you'll see the wastegate.

Remove the clip from the actuator arm (the silver bar on the outside of the turbo) so the wastegate can be opened easily (a little flap covering one of the exhaust holes on the turbo).

You can either:
Remove the exhaust side of the turbo
-or-
Stuff the exhaust side of the turbo so no bits can fall back into the turbo

Then grind the hole (covered by the flap) out to 20mm diameter.

Reassemble.

Points to note:
You WILL snap the bolts on the turbo/downpipe joint - these will most likely need to be drilled out.
You WILL need heat if you intend to seperate the turbo.
This IS a BITCH of a job
It's a job that CAN be done (even by me)

Thanks a lot for this very useful summary of "How to pôrt the wastegate", that just makes things clearer to me! Juste regarding the bolts that you said I WILL snap: I'm quite a lucky guy, as all the work I do on my cars (I also have a 1964 MG Midget) is made in a specialist place in france, thus they have a lot of usefull tools and technics. For that kind of problem, we usually heat the bolt with a blowtorch, and cold it straight with an ice spray, and the bolts come out magically!

If this tip could be of any help, I'll be glad!

Fred

[dapinky]

Juste regarding the bolts that you said I WILL snap: I'm quite a lucky guy, as all the work I do on my cars (I also have a 1964 MG Midget) is made in a specialist place in france, thus they have a lot of usefull tools and technics. For that kind of problem, we usually heat the bolt with a blowtorch, and cold it straight with an ice spray, and the bolts come out magically!

Fred,

A useful technique, but unfortunately the problem seems to be in the design.

The bolts are, in fact, studs of various lengths. The nuts are a special design which will do up, but not undo (to prevent them coming loose in use).

Therefore, the only option is to hope that the stud will undo from the turbo casting before they snap (unusual, but possible).

The usual scenario is that they will snap and then you can remove the wastegate manifold to get at the broken stud with heat/freeze technique, but it is nearly impossible to apply the heat/freeze until the manifold is away.

Some people have replaced the studs with stainless bolts, but i do not have any update from anyone as to how well it has worked out. Likewise, when you replace the studs, it is probably possible to use standard nuts, as new special ones are about £3 each - you may be able to re-use the old ones, if the threading isn't damaged.

Good luck - if it all works out without any problems, let us know as there are a few people who will probably need to do the same job soon.

[GeoffSmith]

The nuts are a special design which will do up, but not undo (to prevent them coming loose in use).
Therefore, the only option is to hope that the stud will undo from the turbo casting before they snap (unusual, but possible).

You should be able to see mine in the pictures I sent you Fred.

Some people have replaced the studs with stainless bolts, but i do not have any update from anyone as to how well it has worked out.

Mine seem to be fine - no problem at all and I'll be tempted to take them out (just because I can ) when I fit the PCE.

[dapinky]

Mine seem to be fine - no problem at all and I'll be tempted to take them out (just because I can ) when I fit the PCE.

Geoff,

Can you publicise the specs of the bolts ?

I assume that there are 3 different lengths (2 medium ones identical, 1 short and 1 long) - do they have any plain shank or did you go for fully threaded? diameter and pitch of thread?

I'm sure it is somewhere on the site, but before i can be bothered to search, do you have the answer at hand?

(actually i did search, found a vague reference on a CAS thread but nothing definate )

[GeoffSmith]

Thread. They were made up as the OEMs but I think the specs went along with my HDD failure. They were £20.00 for a set of four which compared very well with SJ's £19.41 + VAT for the rusty stuff.

[dapinky]

but I think the specs went along with my HDD failure.

That's as much use as a bloody chocolate teapot then!

(thanks anyway )

I can see that I'm going to have to try and find my old broken ones somewhere in the garage to get the thread info, and measure some up.

[GeoffSmith]

Lucky I don't chuck paperwork out:

2 off M8x42mm threaded 10mm & 20mm
1 off M8x71mm threaded 10mm & 20mm
1 off M8x93mm threaded 10mm & 20mm

Enjoy your tea!

[Specky]

TTFN

[tweetdriver63]

Has anybody in the US gotten one of these yet? If so, what ended up being the total cost?

[lotos]

I'm on the fence. The PECO one on ebay would be about £330 including shipping, which is a similar in price, but I'm thinking I may not pass emissions without a catalytic converter... Not sure if PECO even does one with a cat.

[GeoffSmith]

Not sure if PECO even does one with a cat.

You're right, it doesn't.

[lotos]

Has anyone passed super-strict USA emissions (like California) test without a cat?



Via http://www.transglobal.org.uk I found that the package could cost as little as £54.39 for DHL shipping.... (That other website tacked on charges bringing the total to 90-100)

[tigerdog]

Has anyone passed super-strict USA emissions (like California) test without a cat?

Smaug tested to the upper end of the CA range with a cat (Magnaflow sport cat) so I can't imagine passing without one. However, as long as cold-start emissions aren't tested, the pre-cat isn't needed, just the main.

Via http://www.transglobal.org.uk I found that the package could cost as little as £54.39 for DHL shipping.

My nephew works in international freight forwarding - I'll ask his opinion on the best way to ship a Piper exhaust.

Edit: saw an article today: DHL is pulling out of North America. I'm due to speak with the nephew today and will post more info.