Turbo Rebuild-Upgrade w/ PICTURE link

[nitroman]

I pulled this from other sources. You might find it helpful.
NOT MY CREATION:

You'll need to send the wheel as well as your turbine to a turbo shop for balancing. Most reputable shops will do this without asking for your firstborn child. My local shop http://www.turbocity.com does it for $50.

ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN GETTING A T-BIRD, you HAVE to at least remove the compressor side before leaving the junkyard. The reason is that you have to inspect it for damage. All of your time will be wasted if you spend it taking the whole turbo off only to pay for it, get it home, open it up and find that the compressor wheel has rubbed the housing rendering both parts useless.

Take the compressor wheel off with an 8mm ratchet. The nut itself is reversed thread and a simple way to get it off while it is in the car is to wrap a piece of cloth around the wheel as you turn the nut. You will wrap the cloth in the direction that you're turning (clockwise) and the fins will dig into the cloth. I suggest a soft cloth like cotton from a T Shirt. The cloth will wrap around the wheel as you turn and you'll get to a point where the wheel can't turn anymore, and the nut will give you the money shot by letting loose. The proper way to do it, is to remove the exhaust housing from the center section and use 10mm socket on the exhaust turbine and an 8mm socket on the compressor nut. You will then take the compressor housing and wheel home, send in your turbine and wheel for a balance, and buy a rebuild kit while you're at it.

Complete rebuild "how-to" with PICTURES:
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102559

Seperate the center section and compressor side from the exhaust side but leave the compressor side and center section intact. You'll do this by removing the 4 13mm bolts that hold the L plates which hold the center section to the exhaust housing. Remove the two front bolts and what you can of the two rear, remove the L plates, and give the exhaust section a coupel taps with a rubber mallet to start seperating it from the center section. Once it starts to seperate, you will have enough room to unthread all of the bolts and seperate the exhaust side from the center section.

You can use the TurboCoupe compressor housing with the VJ11 wastegate actuator, but the compressor housing will bolt up at a crooked angle compared to the VJ11 compressor housing. The remedy for this is to drill a hole in the middle of the wastegate actuator bracket in the middle of the top two bolts holes. This will allow you to move your T-Bird compressor housing at a straight up and down fashion like the VJ11 normally sits.

Remember, if you plan on doing the T-Bird Hybrid the cheap way, DO NOT TOUCH OR REMOVE THE TURBINE NUT. This will assure that you'll have to get it rebalanced. When all is said and done, you could easily have yourself a T bird hybrid for alot less than what you think you can.

[nitroman]

Site has interesting spec/usage info about our/the IHI RHB5:
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/mattm ... /page.html

quick scan (on my part- you should view site indepth):
IHI = Ishikawajima-Harima (I like the sound of that!)

VI-34 (Isuzu Impulse (Piazza) turbo) number is called a short spec. V=Vehicle I=Isuzu (don't know about our "J" or "F") 34=the first 2 numbers in the long spec. The long spec is actually the part number on the IHI bill of materials or the list of parts that make up the turbo right down to the snap rings, nuts and bolts. RHB5 is typically called the frame size. RH=Right Hand(the direction the wheel rotates) B=Generation( IHI is now on F in 2005) 5=size range(5 is approximately 80hp to 250hp)

Turbine wheels: 5200II=52mm inducer tip width. II=revision 2. I think all RHB5 turbines are 60mm in major diameter and 52 or 54 at the minor outlet diameter. You can stick a 5200II turbine wheel in a P9,P12,P15,P20 or P25 A/R turbine housing. Each increase in A/R shift the turbine hook to the right a little on the compressor map. In engine terms the larger the a/r the more lag and more top end.


RHB5 is a IHI frame size that was used in many turbos:
The RHB52w is found in our Mx6/Probe's with the VJ11 from 89-91. The RHB52w was also used in the TBird from 87-88(VJ17)[some sources say VC32M -for manual trans and (VC32A) for auto], 85-90 Isuzu I-Mark (VI-55), 84-87 Isuzu Impulse(Piazza)(VI-34), 90-94 Subaru Legacy (VF-11) and all 1.8L T subarus from 86-91. The VJ20 is in the 1.8L Mazda GTX the 88-98 1.6L 323 had a VJ-14 and the 86-87 2.0L 626 had a VJ-5.

The RHB52 was used in the 84-86 turbo Escorts(VC-31), the 88-89 Chevy Spectrum (VI-55), 91-94 Ford Laser-Capri (VJ-14), 84-95 Mercury Lynx (VC-31), Ferrari 208, and Bugatti EB110(x4). Fiat used them and it's a popular turbo for motorcycles. It was also going to be used in a TT version of the DeLorean, but the company supplying the parts went out of business before they could build them.
The RHB51w is found in the 84-91 Maserati BiTurbo(VM-3 and VM-4)

[nitroman]

Finding a good used turbo:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articl ... nk-or-not/

[kmckmc]

This is the OEM Elan M100 turbo unit.


RHB5
VI77