Lotus Elan Central

by **Baron Rouge** » Sun 10.12.2006, 22:15

Every time it rains my rear licence plate fog up so bad you can read the reg. (which could be good if I ever go through a speeding camera) :wink:

Anyone knows how to rid this useful problem?

Website · by **theelanman** » Mon 11.12.2006, 01:15

mmm
mine fogs up for a while until I get it in the sun or apply a bit of speed....
I guess checking its not full of water and that it can 'breath' is one thing...other than that not a clue really.....
when I put my cover back on I sealed it across the top and sides and left the bottom free of sikaflex.....seems to clear pretty quick
cheers
G

Website · by **theelanman** » Mon 11.12.2006, 01:17

just thought you could stick a silca gell thing in there somewhere out of sight.....if youve got the perspex cover it has big blacked out edges you could hide it behind

:shock:

by **Sy V** » Mon 11.12.2006, 09:06

My top tip for the last few years. Nick the silica gel out of the myriad of shoe boxes the wife uses to clutter up the bottom of the wardrobe.

by **chris.t** » Mon 11.12.2006, 09:46

got pulled by plod for having a fogged up rear plate. tried most things to no avail to sort. trouble is the next time i get stopped i'll be done :roll:

by **DeeAitch** » Mon 11.12.2006, 11:02

There are 2 holes in the boot which extract air from the cabin through the plate housing. This should clear it quite quickly once you are on the move. Could it be they have been taped up for this very reason :-)

by **chris.t** » Mon 11.12.2006, 16:53

Dave mine are clear no restrictions. I think that cos the silencer is below the boot there is some heat transfer into the boot. Any dampness or venting from the washer bottle is then held above dew point. The only thing that isn't above dewpoint is the rear plate cover which is where all the moisture condenses. Its the same principle why the dials mist up when you have the cabin heater on with roof down.

by **surfboardfiller** » Tue 12.12.2006, 19:01

I recently re sealed the top edge of the perspex cover with black silicone sealer and now it's fine.

Cheers,

Phil

by **Gordon** » Thu 14.12.2006, 16:06

Going back a stage - accepting that the boot vents into the numberplate box - maybe the boot is damp?

by **Elan_Matt** » Fri 05.01.2007, 14:54

I also have the problem of condensation forming on the cover of my rear licence plate. What's more, the letters and numbers on the licence plate look like they've melted a bit, which the previous owner claimed was because he left it facing the sun for too long. This made it so hot inside the box that the numberplate actually melted a bit and makes the letters and numbers a slightly strange shape. Anyone else ever have this happen to them?

I haven't noticed the number plate get any worse over the past year or so, so I'm thinking of buying a new one. What's the easiest way of getting underneath the perspex cover? To clear the cover of condensation at the moment, I'm simply undoing the screws at the top of the cover, which sit just underneath the boot lid and can just about reach in with my hand and a cloth. I think I may need some easier access to remove the numberplate and fit a new one though.

Matt

by **dans** » Fri 05.01.2007, 15:21

I also have wonky drunk looking letters on mine, it was like it when I got it so couldn't say what caused it. Funny thing is that the last three cars I have had had this problem. Last year I got a warning on the MOT for it!! So have been planning on changing the plate as well.... and planning..... and planning..... and planning!!! :lol:

Will do it one day.....

Dan

by **paulwatkins** » Fri 05.01.2007, 15:30

I'm sure that I've read on this forum of people replacing the plastic number plates for steel plate ones because of this distortion problem.

My advice, dont take it out when the sun is shining! :shock:

And definately don't take it out if its raining! :-D

by **muley** » Fri 05.01.2007, 16:25

I , too, have had the melted number plate under the perspex cover (it looked like someone had taken a blowtorch to it).

Short term fix; pull the perspex off, replace the number plate and leave the perspex off.

Longer term fix; install later type number plate plinth.

Cheers

Jim B

by **clemo** » Fri 05.01.2007, 16:56

or do as any reputable elan owner would do

don't drive it at all.
leave it in pieces in the garage..
some out the front..
some in the house under the kitchen table..
some in the shed..

by **Gary** » Fri 05.01.2007, 17:05

Our SE spends most of it's life in the garage with it's younger brother. It has a new rear plate 18 months ago, but even with the few outings it gets, that is already suffering from the effects of the sun !

by **surfboardfiller** » Fri 05.01.2007, 17:11

Elan_Matt wrote:I also have the problem of condensation forming on the cover of my rear licence plate. What's more, the letters and numbers on the licence plate look like they've melted a bit, which the previous owner claimed was because he left it facing the sun for too long. This made it so hot inside the box that the numberplate actually melted a bit and makes the letters and numbers a slightly strange shape. Anyone else ever have this happen to them?

I haven't noticed the number plate get any worse over the past year or so, so I'm thinking of buying a new one. What's the easiest way of getting underneath the perspex cover? To clear the cover of condensation at the moment, I'm simply undoing the screws at the top of the cover, which sit just underneath the boot lid and can just about reach in with my hand and a cloth. I think I may need some easier access to remove the numberplate and fit a new one though.

Matt

Melted letters:
http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7380
I got a new plate from my local Lotus dealer which was printed digitally, these letters cracked in the sun, a slight improvement on the vynl melting but now have a metal one from 'graigplates' but when this turned up it is not rectangular, and thay have not replied to my email. I will cut the curve off (when I find a suitable tool) and loose the craigplate letters as a bonus.

To take the box/unit off un screw the top (out side) the bottom (inside) and you may need to loosen the 4 bumper bolts halfway up the boot (inside) to give some clearence for the bottom lip of the box.

Cheers,

Phil

by **Elan_Matt** » Fri 05.01.2007, 17:40

I'm actually quite glad to see that so many fellow SE-ers suffer from the same melted-letters syndrome on their rear plates. :lol:

I've had a look around online and found demonplates do a carbon-domed version, which they claim is legal and which means the letters actually stick out from the plate, which I guess could prevent the melted look. I don't suppose anyone's tried this? I think the carbon effect looks quite good... although I'm less sure about the Playboy bunnies on the background (see attachment).

Matt

by **muley** » Sat 06.01.2007, 11:42

Hmmm, I don't think raising the numbers will have any effect unless the plate is made of a different sort of plastic/perspex.

(It's a bit too bling for me, in any case)

Cheers

Jim B

by **Oliver** » Sat 06.01.2007, 12:27

Stuck my new perspex cover on with black bathroom sealer (silione RTV), and it has never leaked. My number plate has also wilted in the sun - pressed metal plate has to be the way to go but the problem now is how to get the cover off without damaging it.

I think the cars look better with the perspex cover, but it is high maintenance.

by **surfboardfiller** » Sat 06.01.2007, 19:06

muley wrote:Hmmm, I don't think raising the numbers will have any effect unless the plate is made of a different sort of plastic/perspex.

I think Aluminium is the safest bet, a much higher melting point! :-D

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