Engine rebuild project following blown piston

[GeoffSmith]

Neil,

BEAT YOU!

Geoff

[paulwatkins]

I'd need to remove the hydraulic valve lifters? right? and hence the camshafts?
This is the bit that is making me feel a bit nervous about tackling it myself. Getting it all back in the correct positions....bending stress on the shaft air in the hvl fitting the front oil seal

I dont want to f**k any of these parts up and add further expence!

BUT, if it really is straight forward and you dont mind helping me with an idots guide Neil, i suppose i could have a go

As you say, ending up with the equipment and experience is better

[Enright]

Yeah Geoff - exactly the same sentiments, and even nearly the same words!

Paul,

I've done the same job on a Ford CVH engine before, which also has hydraulic valve lifters (HVL's) - just half the number of them.

The thing about HVL's is that they self-adjust to exactly the right clearance once the oil pressure has built up in them. That's why engines with them are rattlier at start-up, especially worn ones - it takes a while for them to "pump up". For this reason, when you take them out you need to store them submerged in clean oil.

The key to this job is doing everything in sequence, and making sure you put everything back in the same place that each component came out of.

Ideally you need 16 numbered little oil-proof boxes - one for each spring/collet/cap assembly and it's associated tappet, and a clean environment where the parts won't get disturbed.

A piece of card with 2 rows of 8 holes can be very useful for storing the valves while you work on them.

There are half-shells (just like smaller versions of your main bearing shells) which hold the camshafts in place, and then the camshafts simply lift out. But you need to loosen each securing bolt just a couple of turns at a time for safety. That way the springs won't put undue stress on any one part of the camshaft.

Once all the shells are loose you can lift them all out and off to one side (store them in order - maybe even take photos just in case), and then lift out the camshafts.

The HVL's sit under each cam lobe and just look like a flat disc.

Now using the "kid's arrow" tool which you grind the valves with, you can pull each one out and drop it in it's respective oil bath.

Then you position your valve spring compressor so that it squeezes the spring enough so that you can remove the little semi-circular collets. Now gradually release the pressure on the spring. The cap will come off and the spring can be lifted out. At the same time your valve can be slid straight out the opposite way.

I could go on, but I see that Dapinky has just stepped-in, is local to you, and I reckon he's already a dab hand at it. At last you've had a lucky break!!!

[dapinky]

Paul, is what you really need someone in your area who can lend you a compressor, grinding stick and paste??????

If this is the case, we may know someone (albeit I'm hoping to do my own soon, - well, as soon as my foot allows me the mobility)

I actually find porting heads very theraputic (done a few for Triumphs, and my old Lotus 907 in the Elite).

As others have said, if you work methodically, keep a big piece of cardboard under the head to prevent damage to valves/surfaces, and put all the bits into seperate bags/boxes/numbered holes in a piece of board, it ain't that hard.

[I was trying to tread the thin, hazy, wavy line between offering encouragement and actual assistance, but sod it, when were you looking at?]

[algirdas]

Dear Neil:

Do you guys not hit your motors with a pre-oiler before firing them up for the first time following a rebuild?

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Enright]

Al,

I haven't done a rebuild recently, and to be honest I also haven't attemped one on an engine as valuable as an Elan's.

So the answer to your question from me is no, and I didn't realise they existed. But it's certainly something I'd investigate if I was in the same position as Paul.

I'll have to remember to ask a friend of mine about it, as he completed a pretty big engine project just before Christmas.

Do you have any specific brands that you recommend?

[Doug]

Cor that looks great - I can think of a few of our friends from across the pond that would applaud your attention to detail and all around shininess!

Paul,

I applaud your work and the silver will be great. Hopefully you will have no leaks to find.

You should go for it and challenge yourself to do a bit more work while the car is obviously out of service anyway. Especially with the halp you are getting offered -- I say "GO FOR IT!!"

[paulwatkins]

Dave (dapinky), I really appreciate your offer of assistance. I'll need to order up the valve oil seals next week and I'll give you a call when they get in.

Do you want me to order you a set aswell?

Cheers, Paul

[dapinky]

Paul,

I got the stem seals with the head set, so don't need any, thanks.

Let me know when you want a hand and we'll sort something out.

I don't know how much they are to buy seperately, but the complete head set i got was from kmckmc (Michael) on this site for £65 inc shipping from Taiwan (6 days) - a bargain if ever there was one!

[paulwatkins]

Neil, thanks for your explaination of the work required, and with Dave to demonstrate the procedure, I'm now much happier to tackle it myself.

Dave, will i need anything else besides the seals? Is there anything else that is provided in the kit by kmckmc that i may need? Does it include the 'front end seal' that is mentioned in the service manual?

I already have the head gasket/engine rebuild kit.

Cheers, Paul

[dapinky]

Paul,

Short answer is "I aint got a f***ing clue!"

I'll have a look into it tomorrow and see what is included, what is needed, and what we can do about it!

B in touch!

[paulwatkins]

Just been quoted for the valve stem oil seals (A100E6197s) at £5 + VAT each!!!

x 16 valves, + delivery = £100!

I have PM'd michael (kmckmc) to see if the kit he can get contains the seals. And if he can still get them!

Does anyone know of an alternative line of enquiry I could try?


I took the cams off last night. As you said Neil, a very straight forward job. The nice people at Lotus even labelled all the parts so they can go back to their correct position!
The HVL's just pull straight out. I have left them in place until I get enough containers to store them all properly.

[dapinky]

Paul,

Having spent all morning researching the parts I have, here is the total contents of the kit!

(short version, yes it contains the 16 valve seals, yes it contains the 2 cam seals).

Parts guide reference Description Item number quantity
p269 #14 Head gasket A100E6104S 1
#29 Valve stem, seals A100E6197S 16
P271 #11 Cam cover, gasket A100E6284S 1
#17 Cam front, oil seals A100E6213S 2
P276 #21 T'stat cover, gasket A100E6355S 1
#24 Therm housing /head, A100E6358S 1
P287 #1 Ex manifold to head, A100E6097S 1
P297
(40-28A) #7 Inj. housing / head, A100E6100S 1
#8 Inj housing / plenum, A100E6101S 1
#9 Throttle body / plenum,A100E6102S 1

As well as the above items which I have managed to identify, there are a couple of others which (from the parts manuals) MAY be the following:-

P287 #25 Turbo oil drain pipe, A100E6445S 1

OR

P315 #17 EGR pipe / head, A100E6494S 1

AND

Some sort of exhaust gasket! (looks different than anything in the parts book!) 1

Hope this helps.

[paulwatkins]

Thanks for the info Dave.

I've PM'd Michael, so hopefully he can still get the kits!

Cheers, Paul.

ps Dave (dapinky) you have PM (or will do once i've written it!)

[Sy V]

Dave

If you're talking about the kit I gave you, it's not actually one of Michael's - it came from the States in an organised buy by Dodgy Darren of Dudley.

[dapinky]

Ah, it's all clear now then....

Sy, I was looking in that box from you, and if it's from America, I assume that it was intended for the Impulse, hence the different exhaust pipe fitting!

[paulwatkins]

Guys,
dont worry about it. I have been in contact with Michael who is sending a kit over. It too contains the stem seals.

Cheers, Paul

[paulwatkins]

Many thanks to Dave for his help in removing and reseating the valves last night. In fact, it was more like me being the apprentice and assisting him in the task .

He made the task look really easy, and the seating faces came up really well.

I owe you a few of these mate!

Cheers,
Paul

[Enright]

Got some photos of the finished article then?

Let's have some pics of your nice shiny head for Stef!

Now the jigsaw begins...don't leave it too long or you'll forget where all the bits go and get left with a jam jar full of "spares"!

[paulwatkins]

Costs I've incurred to date

1. Local mechanic to carry out compression tests and inspect problem - £35
2. Test 4 fuel injectors and service - £70.50
3. 1st home visit by engineers to try honing no2 cylinder - £88.12
4. 2nd home visit by engineers to re-bore all 4 cylinders - £150.70
5. SJ Sports - £91.40 - Made-up head gasket replacement kit, oil filter
6. SJ Sports - £393.82 - +0.5mm oversize pistons, piston rings, various studs and nuts for turbo/exhaust area, various gaskets required for plenum, injector housing, throttle body, thermostat etc.
7. SJ Sports - £11.80 - Plenum spigot/filter RHS
8. SJ Sports - £36.70 - Exhaust timing pulley
9. kmckmc - £65 - head set (which includes valve stem seals. wish I'd seen this before buying the other gaskets from SJ's, but may be able to sell on some of the duplicate gaskets to claw some money back, or keep as spares)
10. Peco exhaust - £250
11. Samco hose kit (including 'additional' hose) - £195
12. camskill.co.uk - £47.67(inc £8 p&p) - 2 x 1L bottles of Redline MT90 and 1 x 355ml bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
13. Doc Fizzix - $60US (inc p&p) - new HT lead set.
14. Mid America Motorworks - exhaust manifold dressing - £? cant remember off hand.
15. Nuts and Bolts(Weston) - stainless steel jubilee clips and various fasteners - £? on-going purchases.

I know that some of these items were not essential to the re-build project, but I thought they would be beneficial to the overall look, preservation and running of the car when completed ie peco exhaust, samco hose kit, manifold dressing