Engine rebuild project following blown piston

[isuzuimark]

You dont crack headstuds loose. You just recheck that they are at the right torque. I redo headstuds after warming the engine up for the first time , then after driving it for the first drive and then after a few 100 kms . But you just reset the torque wrench and the bolt or nut will turn another degree or 2 before clicking.

[Doc Fizzix]

Just my thought on this and I could be way off:

The book tells you to tighten with oil but my thought was that after the car runs for about 500 mile I would think the oil would flow off the threads so checking with the torque wrench will do nothing (the friction would be greater on the threads to actuall get a true reading) unless you "crack" them a bit to get some more oil on the threads and then re-torque? (Again, I could be way off on this, please correct me)

[isuzuimark]

well Im not really sure about the oil thing but theres a lot of oil in and around there anyways. I used arp lube on my headbolts and only tightened them up mabey 2 ft/lbs. So I don't think it wouldn't be a huge deal if hey were not retorqued. I'm just paraniod.

[paulwatkins]

Big thankyou to Dave (again!).
He called around last night and re-fitted the valves for me. He had a very fiddly job getting the colletts to sit in the correct place, but with a selection of different tools and a tub of grease(!), they all went back in.

I can now start re-building the engine back up.

Cheers, Paul

[paulwatkins]

Yesterday evening:
1. Fitted the lower intake manifold.
2. Fitted the common intake plenum.
3. Fitted the spigot/filter to the plenum (the bit I broke by accident! )
4. Fitted the throttle body assembly to the plenum.
5. Fitted cabin heater hoses (blue Samco) to front of bulkhead. (Had a job to remove the old hoses - they had "welded" themselves to the copper tails poking through the bulkhead. Had to cut them off with a knife and clean up the tails with wire wool)
6. Fitted the cylinder head to the block! (with the help from a neighbour who was "just passing". Got his hands dirty )

All new gaskets used and all fixings torque tightened as indicated in the service manual.

The headgasket I received from kmckmc looked identical to the Lotus one I purchased, but it would not fit over the rhs locating dowel. The hole in the gasket at that location is slightly smaller. I did want to use the kmckmc headgasket because it looked better, but had to go with the Lotus one because of this problem. Any ideas why this is so?

Also bought a new thermostat yesterday. I thought I might aswell renew this - only cost £6 in Halfords. Product ref HTK602

[Enright]

I have to say (probably yet again) how impressed I am with this thread and the work that you've put into (what was never supposed to be) this project Paul.

Just look at your original post, and in particular consider how far you've come since:

Had a bit of trouble on a drive yesterday! Hoping some of you guys could point me in the right direction.
Travelling along at about 60mph, no warning lights or strange sounds to note,...........but then,
1. boost dial indicates no turbo operation at all,
2. blue smoke from the exhaust, with an oily deposit around the tail-pipe,
3. the engine is running dog-rough! Vibrating quite badly and transmitting it through the car.

Any ideas guys? A costly repair? What parts might be required? I appreciate its difficult to diagnose problems without seeing them first hand, but advice would be appreciated.

Not a mechanical expert, and not expecting to carry out the repairs myself, but would like to be armed with some knowledge before throwing myself to the mercy of the car mechanic!

From the POV of a complete novice, you have done a complete strip down to the very heart of your engine and it's component parts, methodically tackled every issue that you've come across, and are now in the process of a stunning looking rebuild.

I think you should really be proud of yourself.

It just goes to show that with a bit of courage and guidance, anything is possible, and is a fantastic inspiration and how-to-do-it-example for others to follow.

The pictures keep the thread interesting and entertaining, and I for one eagerly await the "next exciting installment"!

A big round of applause from me!

[paulwatkins]

Cheers Neil, I really appreciate your comments. I think I have said it before, but I would never of tackled this "project" without the ongoing help and support from the very knowledgeable folk on this forum.

I am glad I carried out this work myself, and I certainly would not discourage anyone else from doing the same. Aslong as you are methodical in your work, take lots of notes and pics, label things as you go along, it makes a seemingly difficult task fairly easy to achieve.

I have developed a sound base of knowledge and understanding about the Elan from doing the work myself (and with help from others) and from the advice shared in this community.

This has certainly given me the confidence to tackle any future projects myself!

Cheers guys, Paul

[paulwatkins]

I made some progress on the re-build over the last 3 days.

1. All samco water hoses fitted.
2. HVL's fitted. 3lt volume of 'running-in' oil added.
3. Cam shafts fitted.
4. Oil filter fitted from beneath.
5. Thermostat housing fitted to cylinder head.
6. Wiring loom layed in place.
7. Injectors connected.
8. Sensors at rear of engine connected.
9. Sensors on thermostat housing connected.
10. Pulleys removed to replace end seals. Pulley's replaced (new pulley on exhaust following 'accident')
11. Exhaust manifold fitted.
12. Timing belt replaced and tensioned.
13. Turbo wastegate ported.
14. New spark plugs gapped and fitted


I have a slight concern about the hvl's. There was a 'little' bit more movement on some of them. I tried re-charging one as per the manual, but the oil i was using was too thick i think, and didnt make much difference. I fitted them all back and will monitor the sound when it comes to restarting. If they need to be looked at again, then so be it. Could I use gear box oil to recharge them? Or something else?

The replacement of the timing belt was a little bit fiddly. The dowels I originally had holding the pulleys were slightly small. This mean't I was missing the belt by 1 tooth all the time. Then I used the shafts of the grinding stones i had bought to port the turbo wastegate. They were a perfect diameter and with them in place the belt slipped on and tensioned with no problems. I hand spun the engine around 2 times, and all timing marks matched up perfectly on completion.

Pics to follow.

[Enright]

Just one question - how easy did you find squeezing in the injectors and replacing the fuel rail?

I ask because I was going to try swapping mine with the one from my spare engine, but they were a swine to pull out, and I don't want to risk damaging an O-ring or putting excessive force on any of the injectors, rail or FPR.

[paulwatkins]

It was a fairly easy job to be honest Neil, just a bit of muscle power to pull them free!

With that said, I was always intending to replace the o-rings as part of the injector servicing so wasn't too concerned about them when they came out. I didn't notice any damage to them mind! The o-rings dont look anything special, I'm sure you could pick them up from an auto spares place.

Replacing them was a little bit more tricky. I placed them into the rail first and then into the manifold. I had a mate to help locate all the injectors into the manifold before applying pressure. A tiny bit of grease on the o-ring helped things along.

[paulwatkins]

A couple of pics to show progress.....

[Dave M]

Looks great Paul.

If you lived in my area of Michigan, you'd be a true "Blue" fan. The University of Michigan has a rabid following for sports, especially (American) football. The team colors are Maize (Yellow) and Blue and your car would be perfect!

[Enright]

That simply glitters!
One of the best looking engine bays I've ever seen. Stunning.

The only tiny fly in the ointment is the exhaust manifold.
Did you know Halfords and most auto stores sell high temp manifold paint?

I've got some in black, and even though most of what you can see will be under covers or hidden by the turbo, it would just clean up the few visible corners.

BTW, how did you get your cam cover coloured? Was it spray-painted or powder-coated?

[paulwatkins]

The only tiny fly in the ointment is the exhaust manifold.
Did you know Halfords and most auto stores sell high temp manifold paint?

BTW, how did you get your cam cover coloured? Was it spray-painted or powder-coated?

I've actually ordered some manifold paint See here
It still hasn't arrived, but should be here any day now. When it arrives I'll just pop the manifold off and give it a coating.

The cam cover was sprayed by a friend in a car body shop. I believe it was spray painted - 1x primer, 2x colour and 1x clear

[Enright]

Thanks. I'm still deciding on which way to go with my cam cover.

The choices are:
Have a spray can matched up and then leave it with a body shop while I'm on hol, or have a bash at spraying it myself.
Advantage: spare paint left over that could be used to blow-in any "peppered" bits, like around the rear wheel-arches and lower front spoiler.
Disadvantage: my cr@ppy spraying skills , and I've been warned that it might bubble, lift and flake off due to the heat in that area.

Or I could take it to a specialist powder coater.
Advantage: spectacular finish and minimal chance of lifting.
Disadvantage: colour match difficulties, and no "spare" for touch-ups (although with the aforementioned "cr@ppy spraying skills" that could be considered an ADvantage and "damage limitation" ).

[paulwatkins]

.......I've been warned that it might bubble, lift and flake off due to the heat in that area.

I did dicuss this with the sprayer before he did it. He said with the combination of the primer/sealer and clear protective coat it should be fine. Time will tell I suppose.

I'm not sure about your spraying skills, but it wasn't something I wanted to attempt.....I knew it wouldnt turn out good!

But if you did have a go yourself, what have you got to lose?
If it turns out ok.....result!
If it turns out so so.......could you live with it? It is under the bonnet after all.
If it turns out crap....take it to the specialist to re-do it for you.

I took it to a specialist and I still ended up with a so so job anyway! But I can live with it

[Dave M]

Thanks. I'm still deciding on which way to go with my cam cover.

I had mine powder coated and it looks great. No chips in years and it cleans up very easily. I've had hot oil on it and there isn't the slightest mark or blemish. It's really tough stuff.

[Paul.P]

Neil, mine & Dico's were both done in normal two-pack paint, & my nephews show car ( done about 5 yrs ago ) is still perfect !. Not saying powder coating aint good mind you, but...........

[paulwatkins]

Didn't get much spare time last night,....but just had enough time to fit the oil seperator and bracket, the inlet camshaft lhs end plug, the cam cover and timing belt top cover.

Had a bit of a grin while doing the camshaft end plug. The o-ring I used was the first ever part I bought for the car. I was getting the usual oil leak from this area. It was going to be my first job when I had some free time.....then it all went tits-up!! It seems a very long time ago that I was thinking about doing it!

I applied a small bead of high temp silicone to the plug, so hopefully that will prevent any future leaks from this location....or for a while anyway.

Can someone please check something for me? The oil seperator bracket has another bracket afixed to it, to allow a p-clip to be secured. Question is, what does this p-clip secure? I dont seem to have any pics of this I'm guessing it holds the wiring loom in place, but could be wrong

[paulwatkins]

The only tiny fly in the ointment is the exhaust manifold.

Neil, is this more like it?