Windows Motor Cable Snapped

[Nige]

Just a reminder of what I said earlier - I have a quantity of stainless cable that should do the job for the price of postage.

Geoff,

I'm currently rebuilding the window mechanisms in Norma, you have PM re cable.

[Ekapol]

Hi Farran,

Got your PM.

The small plastic tube that goes inside the black tube helps to smooth out the cable in the tube. You could try cutting it a bit and use just the remaining good section (if it cracks at both end). Also I added silicon grease in the tube to lube everything.

I threw away the Peugeot metal rail that came with the motor, it is way to long for our car. Don't remember if I keep the white plastic parts with spring, which look slightly different than ours. It should be deeper in one of my part boxes. Will try to search for you tonight.

You also need the ferrules for both end of the cables and one in the middle position as what I mentioned in the thread. The key is to get the tension to be quite tight but still be able to fit both end of the ferrules to the rail slider with the help from releasing the cable tension by compressing the springs at both end.

The feeling once it's done is quite rewarding, even for a project like this

Good luck,
Ekapol.

[GeoffSmith]

I'm currently rebuilding the window mechanisms in Norma, you have PM re cable.

You've got an e-mail Nige.

[GeoffSmith]

Nige,

16 feet of best stainless is on its way. As Ailwyn is still waiting for the sex changer I sent him two weeks ago, I went to a larger PO so fingers crossed.

Geoff

[Ekapol]

Found one white plastic coil-over from my original motor. And one spring with plastic ring from the Peugeot part.

They are on their way to you, being shipped out today.

[Nige]

Nige,

16 feet of best stainless is on its way. As Ailwyn is still waiting for the sex changer I sent him two weeks ago, I went to a larger PO so fingers crossed.

Geoff

Geoff,

You're a star . Thanks very much indeed, I'll post progress as I proceed.

[Nige]

Cable arrived today, thanks again. A quick test fit into one of the sliders I bought from the parts sale proves it fits no problem. I just need to source some ferrules and silicon grease before the weekend and I'm good to go.

[Ekapol]

Please feel free to PM me if you couldn't find the ferrules. I will send you some.

Special service for those with right color Elan

[Nige]

Please feel free to PM me if you couldn't find the ferrules. I will send you some.

Special service for those with right color Elan

Ekapol,

That is most kind of you, thanks. I should be ok and have a cunning plan to use brass electrical terminals as these screw onto the cable and can be adjusted if necessary, once I'm happy they're in the right place I'll solder them onto the cable.

If my cunning plan fails I'll PM you

[ailwyn]

I should be ok and have a cunning plan to use brass electrical terminals as these screw onto the cable and can be adjusted if necessary, once I'm happy they're in the right place I'll solder them onto the cable.

Pictures please.

Thanks

Ailwyn

[GeoffSmith]

Nige,

You'll have to use silver solder on the stainless - you're unlikely to get ordinary solder to take.

Having said that, I crimped (OK squeezed hard in a pair of pliers) some 10mm copper tubing around it to make replacement cables for my garage doors and they're still holding after 5 years.

Geoff

[Nige]

I have finally fixed both windows on Norma. Passenger side works well, drivers side still a bit notchy so may need some more adjustment but works well enough for the moment. Using the method already described by Ekapol it was fairly straightforward. I initially had a few problems with my cunning plan to use brass electrical terminals soldered onto the ends of the cables as Geoff pointed out even using silversolder I couldn't get the solder to take to the stainless so the ends pulled off the cables and I had to start again. However, when I switched to galvanised steel cable it worked well. A fair bit of trial and error to get the correct tension in the cables (had to redo the drivers side twice) but overall a success.

Best bit is having windows that now fit into the hood seals, quieter at speed and leaks less (but still leaks owing to completely shot A post seals).

[Ekapol]

Congrats Nige More fun time for me..


While driving back from our SF bay area's Santana Row gathering, just about the time that I thought the day was a little on the perfect side from the fun run we had since 9 in the morning. We were blasting through twisty backroad routes, etc. On the way back, I decided to roll down the windows a little and heard a big snapping sound on the passenger side

Not my most favorite thing to do on Sunday morning, I decided to take the passenger door out again. There I found one end of the cable slipped out from the center plastic rail guider. Lucky that the cable seemed fine but quite short on one side.

I took the center rail and the motor out. Connecting the motor back to the power (now outside of the door), with patience, I used the switch to slowly work it out the slack from inside the motor, pulling it out a little bit at a time until I can completely assemble Lotus's bow again. Then move the center slider all the way to up and bottom position 10-15 more times to stretch out the kinks, disassembled that cable end, straightened the whole thing and put the cable end back to plastic rail slider again.

Motor is still going strong as usual. That's a good thing.

Talking about intimacy...

[julian_jones]

hi guys,

been following this thread as I am sure that either my cable has also broken or the cable has come out of the plastic clip / slider.

my q is, how to get the glass out, do I need to remove anything from the door, I've looked in the manual and it says not, but some people has said yes to the brush strips etc ?

i've only had the car 2 weeks and this window now no longer works, it is jammed up with foam, but a shame to have any day when it isn't availabe to drive !!

thanks for any advice. the attached mic shows the slack in the cable, appreciate any adivce, think I'll be buying a new reg' I am not up to the re-wiring/cabling !

the motor works both ways, but only pulls the cable in the way down ? coudl the other end have comeout the slider ?

Rgds

[TheBard]

Hi Julian,

In addition to the long and boring PM I just sent you... I've never had to remove the glass to work on the motor and bow assemblies. The glass can be detached from the slider/butterfly assembly easily once the guide rails nuts are loosened (sounds gibberish but it'll make sense when you've got your head inside the door). Just make sure you've ordered up a couple of spare butterflies (Part # in the PM and they are non-sided) because they can be a bit fragile.

Good luck.

Ian

[julian_jones]

Ian, thanks for that, I am sure myself and all other forum users will benefit from this knowledge. I'll try and have a go at it thursday evening, I'll remove the mechanism and leave the glass in place, I have some clamps to hold it up out the way, as I'd rather curse alone !
let you know what I end up with hopefully it will be the split slider

Rgds

J

[Ekapol]

Ouch

Looking at the picture you posted. Either the cable snapped broke or just slid off from the rail guilder. Hope that is the case.

Make sure you order the new plastic center slider too. They are pretty cheap to replace. Having it handy will save you time later should you find out this part is the culprit.

Either way, you will have to work the cable kinks out from the motor. (my previous post). That's why now it is working only one direction.

It is better to stop using the power window switch now, until you get the motor out and take a good look at the cable.

Good luck!!

[julian_jones]

just pulled the mechanism out, have to say it was very straight forward, was expecting some mega battle, but 2 mins once bolts were undone and the mech was on the floor.

the problem is the slider had snapped and allowed the cable to wind itself up inside the motor housing, making a mess, not as bad as Ekapols but still bad. After an hour I have managed to remove all the kinks in the cable and refitted it, attached it to the power again and wound the new slider up and down but only had about half travel up from the bottom. several remomals of the motor cover and to flick the wire round to a better layout on the drum and I know after several of these have full travel ! run out of time to refit to the car, but will sunday as forecast not good. Thanks for the advice on leaving the glass in place, it was spot on as I undid the butterfly clip and managed to wiggle the glass off. I used clamp to keep the glass up out the way.

I'll take a coffee tomorrow and refit the mechanism, I want to get some thread lock on the motor cover screws as these are not so tight after many removals before putting it back in the door.

the 4mm screws that go into the bottom of the glass as up-stops have long gone, can anyone tell me how long these should be ?

thanks

JJ

[TheBard]

Hi Julian, welcome to the spooling cable club! I'm not sure about the glass stop screws, but I recommend sticking a longer screw in the cable housing and adding a plumber's clamp (like a large coolant hose clamp) to strengthen the closure and prevent bursting. You can see how my attempt went HERE.

Best of luck tomorrow.

Ian

[julian_jones]

well it works now ! initially refitted the mech, had great problems getting the unit high enough, until I re-read a post about routing the channel, then it was easy. first attempt had the window going up, but stopping 2 inch short. took it all out again, ( so easy now ! ) found the wire had got wrapped a bit messy so any load on the motor was stopping it. Then refitted and it went all the way bar an inch, so with arm inside door, a big shove when it was going up, allowed it to get all the way and the cable unwind itself. then about 24 applications of up and down and it moves freely now. I added the window stops in with 4mm x 20mm screws and the windows are so much more stable now, I reckon the otherside has come off so that is a job for next weekend.

removed the brush strips thinking that was jamming or if it wasnt so i coudl see better, so need to get some sikaflex to re-fix these. then that's it,

thanks for eveyones help and suggestions

JJ