Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

[Doc Fizzix]

With the increase in boost that I want out of this upgrade (1.3~1.5 bar) I will need to add a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) to prevent the ECU from cutting out the injectors. I have selected a TurboXS FCD:

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/prod ... ts_id/7033

[Monty]

Hey Doc,

i`ve lost were u are on the mods u`ve done to getting more boost:roll:

So u`ve gone for the hybrid turbo, what about injectors, fuel pressure regulator?
Are u going to control the boost with an MBC and keep the stock ECU, if so how will u set up the fuel delivery?

Just interested for future projects

[Doc Fizzix]

Hey Doc,

i've lost were u are on the mods u've done to getting more boost

Yes, it has been a long time and it is easy to loose track.

Now that the motor is broken-in and running great it is now time for the turbo upgrade:

My turbo upgrade is to use the compressor wheel from a Ford T-Bird (1987-1989). The turbos are both RHB5 units but the T-Bird had a larger compressor wheel and is capable of reaching boost levels up to 1.3-1.5 bar. I plan on adding a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) to prevent the ECU from cutting out the injectors. I am sticking with the stock injectors (I actually have RC injectors rated at 327 cc) so in order to keep the mixture from becoming lean I will need to increase the pressure or add another set of injectors that will kick in when needed to keep from running lean.

[Doc Fizzix]

Turbo is almost back together and now I have to deal with the fuel issue. Again, we are trying to get 1.3~1.5 bar of boost and that means I will need to add more fuel to the system as the boost goes above .9 bar since the stock ECU and injectors will not keep up. I have several proposed solutions but I am leaning towards a FMU (fuel managment unit), anyone have any experiance with one of these?

http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR.html

[Doc Fizzix]

For what it is worth I post this information:

When I rebuilt the motor I noticed that the right side motor mount was split so I ordered a replacement. After installing the new motor mount the motor was a LOT smoother at idle so I decided to replace the transmission mount and the vibration dampener even though they look ok. Today I finely got around to doing the job. Here is a little background on my issue, if you have followed this thread you may recall that I had the smallest of vibration at idle (most people could not notice but I am picky) I ended up thinking it was caused by the lighter weight flywheel since the motor was so smooth in every other aspect.

Well, I can tell you that after replacing the trany mount and dampener today there is NO vibration at all and my motor is so smooth at idle you would not even think the car is running.

Conclusion: Check those mounts! I think it is a good idea to replace them due to the age of these cars and boy does it make a difference in smoothing out the vibrations

[F1 LOTUS]

How much of a job was it to replace those items? Are the parts reasonably priced? Any clues to the origin of the parts - Lotus? GM? ???

[Doc Fizzix]

8)
How much of a job was it to replace those items? Are the parts reasonably priced? Any clues to the origin of the parts - Lotus? GM? ???

Hello

I have had a few people PM about part numbers so I will try to find my invoice today and post the part numbers.

A for the job, both the right side mount and the trany mount took about 30~45 min each. The job is not bad at all, the right side mount had to have the old rubber pressed out and the new rubber pressed in so I had to take that mount to a buddies house who had a press. The trany mount came already in the metal support so I just had to swap the old with the new, four bolts total, the hardest part is alligning the new mounts with the long bolt holes. Obviously you have to suport the motor as you remove the mounts.

As for the origina, there are no markings on the rubber mounts and I am not sure if they are the same as the Isuzu mounts. The vibration shock has some markings and a manufacture on it so I will post that also later.

Total price was about $250.00 or so but I will check the invoice.

[Doc Fizzix]

Ok, have some part numbers and prices, my stated price up above was much higher than actual, all parts were bought from Dave Bean:


100A6007 Engine Damper $89.00 US
100E6079 Gearbox Mounting Assembly $98.98 US (this is the complete assembly with the rubber mount)

The right side rubber mounnt was only about $30.00 US if I remember correctly, I will try and find that part also, so the total was about $220.00 or so.

[kmckmc]

For No. 60, the Engine Torque Damper, A100A6005F, Who has replaced it previously?

Cheers,

[Doc Fizzix]

Mike

Yes, those are the parts.

Number 9 was the other parts I replaced and it had to be pressed in using a press. As for number 60, I have not replaced yet but I plan on doing so this summer, if I remember the part was very expensive.

UPDATE:

RH Engine mount is part numebr B100E6115F and was $36.00 US from Dave Bean

[nitroman]

Doc, how come you're not installing the 327cc RC injectors to see if they are sufficient to address your lack of fuel? I thought that was the route normally taken at this point (meaning, with your mods).

If you are concerned with running rich at low/no boost, then raising the FP will give you the same problem. I can only see validity in your idea to piggy-back one or more injectors. Placing a single additional injector just before the TB is a solution I've seen successfully implemented. It would be powered when the boost reached beyond .92-bar; or whatever level you begin to run lean.

[Doc Fizzix]

Doc, how come you're not installing the 327cc RC injectors to see if they are sufficient to address your lack of fuel? I thought that was the route normally taken at this point (meaning, with your mods).

I do not think you are reading correctly


I do have the 327 cc RC injectors installed and my fuel to air ratio is perfect even up to .9 bar, but my concern is that once go past .9 bar I will need to add more fuel to the motor since the computer will not have the information needed to do this correctly; that is why we are adding a fuel management unit to increase the fuel pressure accordingly in order to keep the correct fuel ratio at boost level above .9 bar.

[Ashaman]

I know a lot of people do the slight injector upgrade; but while on my car it ran fine, but I think might have been counterproductive because as the boost increased, the AFR went off-the-scale rich. I honestly think that you would make more power with a chip and stock injectors than going that route.

If you are using a MAP voltage clamp, be careful - I had an electrical engineer take a look at one and he was not favorable as they weren't exactly a precise thing.

Just get a Haltech, you know you don't want to run out of projects yet...

Oh wait, I don't think they will work with a MAC, you would have to get a PC - Carry on then!

[algirdas]

Dear Ashaman:

Funny. All of my PC applications run just fine on my Macintosh.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

PS One more thing, and don't ever forget this-

Macintosh Computers-Superior Technology for Superior People

[Doc Fizzix]

Dear Ashaman:

Funny. All of my PC applications run just fine on my Macintosh.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

PS One more thing, and don't ever forget this-

Macintosh Computers-Superior Technology for Superior People

Careful, some PC people take things very personal when you talk about Apple Computers around here, its best just to use your Mac and know that you have the better computer but not say anything. I learned my lesson several years back, I am not going down that road again

[Doc Fizzix]

Just get a Haltech, you know you don't want to run out of projects yet...

I am supposed to pick-up my turbo tomorrow from Majestic Turbos in Waco tomorow and then this weekend I am going to put her in. I have some time here before I actually commit, I plan on running the new T-Bird turbo at .65 bar for about 500 miles before I turn the boost up. I do like the idea of adding another set of injectos, me and me tech have discussed this idea. The Haltech would be a good way to go also but I am not sure Ashaman will send me his setting to help me get t dialed in

[algirdas]

Dear Doc:

Thanks for the sage advice.

Good luck with the turbo upgrade.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Ashaman]

Of course I'll help you Doc, I was just kidding around. Actually, if you get 550cc injectors, you could probably load up my map and be ready to go!

Now that I have worked with the E6GMX I can give some more guidance on the settings, they were a big different from the E6GM.

Or maybe I'll just add kind of a "how-to" to the old Haltech thread sometime. Probably not alot of people up for that project, but a step-by-step would help thin out some of the variables I suppose.

[Doc Fizzix]

Ashaman

Thanks for the hand

I was reading through your threads on the Haltech on both the Elan and Isuzu site and I agree that would be the best way to go, I do like this option the best but was afraid of doing it on my own and was looking for something easy.

[Ashaman]

No problem! If you decide to go that route let me know. I did the 370cc injectors and was concerned they weren't up to the task, so I changed over to 550s - I don't really remember the specifics now, but the Haltech shows the duty cycle in real-time and I know I was worried about them, so I then got the 550s to be safe(r). Unfortunately this caused a bit of double work, as I had to then change the maps again!

Of course, it isn't the only way of going about it, but it is the most flexible, and I hate putting work into something that doesn't do everything I want further down the road, so I tried it.

Anyway, having gone through the initial frustrations, information, disinformation, etc - I am a little bit more comfortable with them now