Install of new AB cables!!!!!!

[Ghost]

I have read all the threads on installing new AB cables, so I knew I was in for some 'fun' when I attempted to change my cables.
After moving the water header tank and air inflow pipe, I managed to remove my old cables with some difficulty. I remebered to attach the strings to the old cables before pulling them out.
So far so good!!
Tried to install the new AB cables from the gear stick end, but could only push them so far before hitting an obstruction. Tried from the engine compartment and had similar difficulty.
At this point one of the strings was cut on a sharp metal edge!
My main problem is that I am trying to do the job single handed, which makes it impossible to push the cables in, and pull the string to guide them at the same time!
1: Is it easier to install the cables from the engine compartment or from the gear stick end?
2: Do the cables have to go on either side of the rear engine mount so as not to cross, or can both cable go to the right of the engine mount where there is slightly more space?
3: Should I jack up the car for access underneath, as this has not been indicated in the threads I have read?
I will await some responce to this thread before I try again, as I am running out of patience and plasters, and also obscene expletives!

Steve

[al]

No doubt some others will be along with some more useful advice soon, but in the mean time I'll give you some light-at-the-end-of-the-tunnel to tide you over :-

When I did my cables, I jumped in headfirst and forgot to cable tie the new cables to the old, so I was basically in the same position you are in now...

It is very definitely possible to put 'em back in, 'cos I've done it

When I did it, I threaded back in from the cockpit out into the engine bay. I came across the same obstruction problem you've got - what I did was to shove a digital camera down into the centre console conduit and take a picture to see what I was dealing with, then once I could see what I needed to do it was 'just' a matter of sticking my arm into the console as much as I could and trying to poke the cables through where I figured the hole should be based on the photo, then reaching down behind the engine and trying to pull them through - this last bit was what caused most of the pain and scars

For a mildly less useful suggestion: gaffer tape the end of the cable to a ferret (or small rodent) and chuck it down the centre console hole, then jump and down shouting to scare it through into the engine bay and the job's a good'n. Pulling it out of the engine bay afterwards may well result in a similar number of scars to the arms though, so it may well not be worth the trouble...

[Monty]

I didn`t bother with string when i fitted mine i had the same problem and i got frustrated (yep even i get frustrated ) so rammed the bloody cables only to realise the cables had already gone through but hit the gearbox and deflected down so i couldn`t see them

[Dico]

Oh Murphy you are a plonker

Steve, make sure the cables both come out on the right hand side (as you look at it from the front) of the mounting.
I'm not sure what you have read before, but I would then fasten at the gear stick end before the gearbox end.

Good luck.

[Enright]

1: Is it easier to install the cables from the engine compartment or from the gear stick end?
2: Do the cables have to go on either side of the rear engine mount so as not to cross, or can both cable go to the right of the engine mount where there is slightly more space?
3: Should I jack up the car for access underneath, as this has not been indicated in the threads I have read?

1: Gearstick end is easier.
2: Both to the right I think. This gives them the biggest possible turning radius so is necessary anyway to stop them from binding. Binding is very obvious, and very bad.
3: No, don't jack it up. All that does is gives you further to reach over the top, increasing the chances of your belt scratching your clamshell paint! There's bugger all access from underneath anyway.

[Monty]

Steve, make sure the cables both come out on the right hand side (as you look at it from the front) of the mounting.


Good luck.

Shouldn`t that of been the left side

[Dico]

Hmm, I was thinking that too





















I'm off out to the garage with a torch

[Dico]

Erm, left side

I blame the wine

[Mike_H]

When I did my gear cables I took a picture ( yes I am quite small ) up the tunnel from the gear lever opening up towards the rear engine mount. You can see the gap you have to aim for . I tied some string and a piece of wire to the end of the gear cable to push that through first and then I pulled the cable from the engine side .

Hope it helps you.

[al]

When I did my gear cables I took a picture ( yes I am quite small )

There you go, that's what I'm talking about

[Ghost]

Just an update.

I have installed the AB gear change cables at last!!!!
The photo down the chassis tunnel that Mike H supplied was a tremendous help, as I was able to direct the cables towards the larger gap. This together with a little brut force managed to get the cables into the engine bay.
As I was changing the cables, I decided to also install Dave's short shift kit.
On reflection, it may have been better to fit the AB cables first and get them working satisfactory before fitting the short shift kit! Too late now as they are both installed, and I am waiting for a flat battery to recharge so that I can try the gears out prior to an MOT.

One problem I had with Dave's short shift kit was refitting the selector unit after fitting the kit as per Dave's instructions.
I had the gear box in first gear (per instructions) but when refitting the selector unit the counterweight arm caused the selector 'finger' to move position. The result was that no gear could be selected. After removing the selector unit for a second time, I removed the counterweighted arm, refitted the selector unit and then refitted the counterweighted arm.
This time the selector 'finger' was in the right place and the gears could be selected.

Will do another update after a trial run!

Steve

[Ghost]

I have just given the Elan a test run, and the difference in the gear change is terrific!!!!!!
While waiting for the battery to charge, I spent the time adjusting the cross gate cable to centeralise the gear lever, and the 'fore & aft' cable so that it felt that it engaged the gears fully.
This was time well spent, because when I tested the gear change on the road, I had no problems at all!
The gear change is a little stiff at the moment, but I hope with use it will become easier.
I did notice that with Dave's short shift kit the cross gate cable lined up squarely onto the selector pin, but the 'fore & aft' cable was out of line as the pin on the counterweighted arm is not in the same position as the pin on the original arm!

Altogether I would say that both these upgrades are well worth the expence and trouble to do, as the difference is remarkable.

Steve