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by Specky » Fri 22.02.2008, 21:38
Title says it all...
I'm looking at replacing the seals..
Has any one done this... any hints or tips
any photo's
where did you source spares...
hopefully I will do a Wiki entry when completed..
TTFN
If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire... The N/A-Team.
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by RayD » Fri 22.02.2008, 22:49
Dave
Have you seen the bit in the manual where it says... it’s a non- serviceable sealed assembly...
Ray
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by Specky » Fri 22.02.2008, 23:10
RayD wrote:Dave
Have you seen the bit in the manual where it says... it’s a non- serviceable sealed assembly...
Ray
No I hadn't...
But that won't stop me..
I think SJ's do a seal kit... so i'm guessing it can be done...
I'm just putting the feelers out to get an idea...
This is a rough guess and not the answer
Once the cylinder is removed from the car, carefully clean the exterior so that there is no dirt which can find its way into the internal workings of the cylinder. Remove the dust cover which sits over the end of the cylinder bore. The pushrod will most likely be held in place by a circlip. Push the rod a little way inside the bore, then remove the circlip. The pushrod can now be withdrawn and the rest of the internal components can also be pulled out. It's at this point that most workshop manuals I read seem to get a little silly. They always tell you to clean all components next. What utter bunkum! If the master cylinder bore is scored, the whole unit is scrap and will need to be replaced. So I always carefully clean and inspect the master cylinder body first. If, and only if, this is o.k., I then go on to clean the rest of the components. Makes a lot more sense if you ask me! Just a pity that not many people do.
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by RayD » Sat 23.02.2008, 09:41
It can’t be sealed and serviceable at the same time, so they were either trying to put people off fiddling with it, or they used a different one in production.
It might be better to find and do a spare one up, then change it over.
Ray
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by Monty » Sat 23.02.2008, 11:46
If SJ`s do a kit let me know what the costs is as i`ve got a spare Master cylinder
But isn`t there a cross ref on a new one at a resonable price

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by GeoffSmith » Sat 23.02.2008, 11:47
Monty wrote:If SJ's do a kit let me know what the costs is as i've got a spare Master cylinder
But isn't there a cross ref on a new one at a resonable price

I think Phil (surfer) had one fitted.
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by GeoffSmith » Sat 23.02.2008, 11:49
Cross reference - Unipart for ~£100.
Calypso Red S2 #417
USB ElanScan interfaces - £60 incl. UK P&P & £65 incl. ROW P&P
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by Specky » Sat 23.02.2008, 12:00
A 100 quid...
Repair, rework, refit...
A new problem to get my teeth into...
TTFN
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by RichyP » Sat 23.02.2008, 13:22
Just had my master cylinder replaced last week... was looking at the old one and it did seem to be sealed. Bits may come off with some brute force but I couldn't see how- wasn't looking very hard though 'cause the new one was installed.
For the cost and potential problems, a new one made more sense to me!!
Rich
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by Specky » Sat 23.02.2008, 16:58
Bugger..
which one did you go for...
any noticeable difference...
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by RichyP » Sat 23.02.2008, 19:11
I went for the lucas one - can't remember the part number, but my garage sourced it after I gave them the number 'cause it was mid MoT, charged way OTT but my hands were tied.
Hell yeah there's a difference... but I also did the wilwood upgrade and unseized the rear calipers - so not very objective!!
Garage did say that these GM/ vauxhall style cylinders were prone to go and the seals pop very easily - they often tap the cylinder and they pop back in - but there is no room to tap (read "smack with hammer") under the elan bonnet!! (they do talk out their ar$e alot though!)
With the age of these cars I'll bet there are lots of us who would benefit from replacing this fairly critical item, do I hear group buy??!!
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by RichyP » Sat 23.02.2008, 19:16
Lucas PMH 392 as Geoff's post above refers to!
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