Fascia Panel Project

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Postby Elanlover » Sat 10.05.2008, 23:35

tweetdriver63 wrote:It gives it a nice, military surplus feel, I think.

:smt066

:smt078


Tough crowd! Ok fine, I'll just use it as the primer coat like they told me i should in the first place :wink: Still going with a matte black, slightly textured.

Geoff, as soon as Doug sends me the schematic I'll send it on itws way. I have a hand drawn one but I'd rather wait for the real thing. I should be able to mount the hazard switch now and connect up all the wires later. The pic below shows where the switcher and LED display are going. I think we need to stick with the original plan as the switcher is still a half foot or more away from the display.

So, display on some form of cable running to the little board for the display with pot to control intensity (this was a great idea Geoff) with another ribbon cable to the rotary switcher (I'm assuming no changes there so I'm using the one you sent) which will have a long cable to the ECU.
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Postby Candles » Sun 11.05.2008, 07:23

That is looking fantastic!

I've just been attacking my hazard switch and can confirm the following:

1/2 of the switch's function can be managed by a SPDT switch. The other half needs DPST. I am planning to use a SPST toggle switch that drives a relay. This relay will be powered from a permanent +ve and change over the power to the flasher from the IGN +ve to permanent +ve. The other pole will then connect flasher output to the indicator bulb circuits via diodes to prevent all the lights flashing when you just want to turn a corner!

In summary, you can use whatever switch you like, you just may need a relay as well. If I were you, I'd choose the best looking switch, then email Geoff the pin configuration. He'll probably then send you a solution in the form of a circuit diagram, as well as some bank details for an LEC donation :!:

Good luck! Candles.
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Postby Doug » Mon 12.05.2008, 05:24

diagrams sent :smt024
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Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 12.05.2008, 06:56

:smt023
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Postby Candles » Mon 12.05.2008, 21:30

Here's my attempt at it:

Image
The relay is DPDT, one pole swaps the flasher unit over from ignition pwr to permanent +ve, the other pole connects the flasher output to both indicator circuits via diodes (inside the black heatshrink sleeving) such that when you indicate with the normal system, the current cannot flow to the other circuit. The relay coil is on permanent +ve, the hazard switch is a SPST, grounding this coil. I could post a circuit diagram, but I can't think of an easy way of drawing it aside from with a pencil then taking a piccy of the paper!

As I said, with this system, any switch is usable.

Also, why did you stick with the Vauxhall Astra slider switch for fan speed? That doesn't fit the new look! How about this?
Image

Which all adds up to this:
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Postby Elanlover » Mon 12.05.2008, 21:40

Hey Candles, a round dial-like fan speed control would have been ideal. But I would have had to chage out the AC switch for sure (matching looks) and figure out the wiring for the speed control too. I'm sure I could have done it but I was really stuck on the hazard switch wiring and just got nervous thinking about more wiring sub-projects and the car not getting back on the road until October.

Plus, I was able to have the folks at Metal Monkey use the existing heater controls to work up a set of dial faces easily that matched the controls when I split them into 3 seperate "dials". So, it was all to easy to use what we had and still get it to look updated. I think that, once its painted and the dial faces illuminated, it'll look good and still keep somewhat of an OEM look to it.

If you get that hazard switch to work I may need you to send me some diagrams! Although, Master Electrician Geoff is having a look at making my Saab switch work with the Elan.
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Postby Candles » Mon 12.05.2008, 22:18

The hazard switch is in and functional. Here's the diagram:

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And the proof of the function (the red light is the warning lamp!):

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Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 12.05.2008, 22:49

Great minds think alike. :D I've wired in the SAAB hazard as per Doug's diagrams so that the background illumination is controlled by the rheostat module and it flashes at full intensity when the hazards are on.

Have you haven't ripped out the wiring for the old hazard switch socket Blair?
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Postby Elanlover » Tue 13.05.2008, 01:44

GeoffSmith wrote:you haven't ripped out the wiring for the old hazard switch socket Blair?


No good sir, the hazard socket (and all accompanying wiring) into which the OEM hazard switch normally plugs into is exactly as I left it. I was thinking that I'd wire up a harbess of sorts and just stick spade connectors into the socket where required. I'll look over the diagram post haste!
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Postby Elanlover » Thu 29.05.2008, 00:13

Ok, we're making some serious progress as the pics below will show. I'm hopeful that, when I drop in tomorrow afternoon, we'll get all the gauges, etc. in and the dash installed and ready to go. Only issue will be testing the gauges to see how accurately I put the needles back on :roll: I think the voltmeter's pretty good, the oil may show a bit high and the tacho may show a bit high. No idea yet about the speedo or boost gauges. Oh yea, a few tell tale lamps aren't turnign on yet.....................did i just say we were almost done :banghead:
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Fascia painted and we're starting to mount the various switches, dials and gauges.
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003.JPG
Here's a close up of the texture of the finish.
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With the fascia sitting in place to test out the head unit connections.
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Postby Monty » Thu 29.05.2008, 00:24

Thats going to look great :smt023 really like the finish too.

Look forward to the final pictures :wink:
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Postby F1 LOTUS » Thu 29.05.2008, 01:37

The paint worked out pretty good - nice job :D
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Postby Elanlover » Sat 31.05.2008, 02:42

Ok, serious progress now as the pics below show. I have a few issues to resolve as yet.

1. I'm not getting all the telltale lamps lighting.
2. In order to fit the speedo cluster over the new switches we had to chop off the lower fixing tabs and bolts. Unfortunately, the speedo now dangles with no support.
3. No matter what I do I cannot get the tach needle set properly. I've taken it off 6 times now and every time it simply doesn't want to calibrate. This last time it looked like I had it bang on. Howver, after starting the car a few times the needle is showing wat high again. It seems to be slipping on the "pin" somehow.
4. I may be getting transient signals as the check engine light seems to glow very faintly and now the temp needle doesn't return to the rest point :evil:

Other than that i guess its turning :roll: out ok..........................
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Up close and personal with the new dash. I really like the clock where it sits.
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402.JPG
How about an ariel view.
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Good shot of the V5 switcher dial to the left by the wiper control stalk.
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And another full frontal view.
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And the wonderfully working cup holder too! Should have been a beer though after this amount of work.
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With a few little accents now installed.
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Postby F1 LOTUS » Sat 31.05.2008, 02:47

Wow! :shock:
That looks great - very OEM 8)
I'm amazed, this really does make the original look dated and amateurish.
Fantastic job! Well played.
:D
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Postby tweetdriver63 » Sat 31.05.2008, 02:54

W

O

W

!!!

I know you'll get the details sorted out. That looks absolutely fantastic.
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Postby Elanlover » Sat 31.05.2008, 03:16

Thanks guys. And it only cost an arm and a leg (and a second mortgage). I asked the guy offhandedly if he'd look into gettign it vacuum formed for mass reproduction sometime in the event people decided they wanted something like it. He wasn't too excited about the opportunity as he has no facilities to do it. I can't imagine it would be cheap either.

I can tell you that the Mazda Miate vents (I know, I know but they were the smallest round vents available) cost about $70 each. You would need to buy new dial faces for the as you can't really use the old ones once you cut up the controls. Another $50 - $150 if you go for the full Metal Monkey dial set. A used Saab hazard switch (and Geoff's soon to be patented conversion cables) and Saab cupholder were another $150. Plus about $70 in chrome trim rings. So, its probably going to be between $350 and $450 in parts before you spend money on the new fascia and LCD panel/deck. This was an extremely expensive project for me but it really transforms the car and brings the interior up to date. Will look even better with the retrim pieces coming from Lotus and the aluminum door handles and pulls.
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 31.05.2008, 05:42

Elanlover wrote:And it only cost an arm and a leg (and a second mortgage). ....... about the same as Geoff's soon to be patented conversion cables


Looks stunning Blair. Excellent job. :wink:
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Postby Nige » Sat 31.05.2008, 10:40

Magnificent :smt023 :smt038 .
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Postby Monty » Sat 31.05.2008, 11:03

Fan-Bloody-tasic

:smt023

They`ve done a great job moulding/shaping to the LCD screen
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Postby Elanlover » Sat 31.05.2008, 15:06

Monty wrote: They've done a great job moulding/shaping to the LCD screen


Yes, I was particularly happy with that aspect as the old stereo single DIN hole and square vents jut out a fair bit from the fascia. These are now flush mounted which provides quite a bit more room actually. Makes the cockpit feel just a tad bigger. Once (everyone cross their fingers) I get the few nagging problems resolved I'll be moving on to trying to fit the Elise airbag steering wheel I have.
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